Need Help Replacing DRL Sockets
10-22-2013, 05:24 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Need Help Replacing DRL Sockets
As far as splicing goes, was going to use 3M T-Taps. Seems easiest. Not a big fan of solder on automotive use....vibration...since it's brittle & can break.
Anyone know what guage wire on the DRL sockets?
Anyone know what guage wire on the DRL sockets?
10-23-2013, 08:05 PM
#2
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Location: Columbus IN
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What are you trying to fix? If the sockets are brittle and you want new, then do NOT splice. Splicing is just asking for trouble not to mention ugly and wrong way to fix. Depopulate the socket and simply install a new one. You need a really small drill bit to shove into the socket and release the pin latch to depopulate. Fairly easy. 5 mins per socket.
10-23-2013, 08:25 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
What are you trying to fix? If the sockets are brittle and you want new, then do NOT splice. Splicing is just asking for trouble not to mention ugly and wrong way to fix. Depopulate the socket and simply install a new one. You need a really small drill bit to shove into the socket and release the pin latch to depopulate. Fairly easy. 5 mins per socket.
I installed new housings, & want to replace OEM bulbs with Switchback LED's, since the sockets were kinda burnt. So I got new sockets & am about to splice them in place. Plan on using Dorman 85462 Blue 14-18 Gauge Weatherproof Wire Splice block.
Last edited by LIGHTNING; 10-23-2013 at 08:41 PM.
10-23-2013, 08:52 PM
#4
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"Depopulate the socket"?? Never heard of that!
I installed new housings, & want to replace OEM bulbs with Switchback LED's, since the sockets were kinda burnt. So I got new sockets & am about to splice them in place. Plan on using Dorman 85462 Blue 14-18 Gauge Weatherproof Wire Splice block.
I installed new housings, & want to replace OEM bulbs with Switchback LED's, since the sockets were kinda burnt. So I got new sockets & am about to splice them in place. Plan on using Dorman 85462 Blue 14-18 Gauge Weatherproof Wire Splice block.
10-23-2013, 09:25 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You depopulate a socket to keep the wires with the original pins and not have to splice. First, remove wires and pins from new socket. Discard those wires. Remove from old socket. Install new socket on factory wires. Good as new an no splices. As stated, you need a really small drill bit to unlatch the wires from the socket.
Weird, all the yrs I've been on various car forums, this is the first I've ever heard of this. Whenever it comes to replacing DRL sockets, It's always a debate on best splicing method.
10-24-2013, 01:16 AM
#6
Team Owner
I cut, stripped, tinned, soldered, then shrink tubed them. Been well over a year with no worries. I think the wires are in the 18 to 16 ga range.
10-25-2013, 10:47 PM
#7
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While your experience sounds terrific, its the wrong way to repair a damaged socket. You're adding another possible failure point to the system. The ONLY time you splice in a new socket is when the terminals are corroded.
10-26-2013, 12:34 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You depopulate a socket to keep the wires with the original pins and not have to splice. First, remove wires and pins from new socket. Discard those wires. Remove from old socket. Install new socket on factory wires. Good as new an no splices. As stated, you need a really small drill bit to unlatch the wires from the socket.
Last edited by LIGHTNING; 10-26-2013 at 12:37 AM.
10-26-2013, 12:40 AM
#9
Team Owner
I'll add more wire loom to cover the ugly splice so no one will see it. Thanks for the tip, it was terrific.
10-26-2013, 01:03 AM
#10
Team Owner
A carefully/properly soldered splice will last for years with little, if any, embrittlement issues, especially in a wire ga. that size in a low vibration environment. This definitely aint the space-shuttle, where lives are on the line. 
Unfortunately however, the new socket will likely suffer the same fate due to the very hot DRL incandescent bulb filament constantly putting out so much heat in that confined space. I would recommend considering LED lighting, or doing the DRL relay mod to eliminate the DRL function (and generates no DTC codes). No hot bulb filament constantly burning = no heat to cook the sockets.
I did the relay mod (free) on mine as opposed to the LED mod. Not hard and I don't mind not having DRLs. Turn signals and parking lights function normally.
HTH
Btw, fix the crack/hole in the light housing too. That's where the water comes in and constantly blows bulbs and causes corrosion.
10-26-2013, 02:29 AM
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
10-26-2013, 02:46 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Same for me and lots of others. A carefully/properly soldered splice will last for years with little, if any, embrittlement issues, especially in a wire ga. that size in a low vibration environment. This definitely aint the space-shuttle, where lives are on the line.
Unfortunately however, the new socket will likely suffer the same fate due to the very hot DRL incandescent bulb filament constantly putting out so much heat in that confined space. I would recommend considering LED lighting, or doing the DRL relay mod to eliminate the DRL function (and generates no DTC codes). No hot bulb filament constantly burning = no heat to cook the sockets.
I did the relay mod (free) on mine as opposed to the LED mod. Not hard and I don't mind not having DRLs. Turn signals and parking lights function normally.
HTH
Btw, fix the crack/hole in the light housing too. That's where the water comes in and constantly blows bulbs and causes corrosion.
A carefully/properly soldered splice will last for years with little, if any, embrittlement issues, especially in a wire ga. that size in a low vibration environment. This definitely aint the space-shuttle, where lives are on the line. Unfortunately however, the new socket will likely suffer the same fate due to the very hot DRL incandescent bulb filament constantly putting out so much heat in that confined space. I would recommend considering LED lighting, or doing the DRL relay mod to eliminate the DRL function (and generates no DTC codes). No hot bulb filament constantly burning = no heat to cook the sockets.
I did the relay mod (free) on mine as opposed to the LED mod. Not hard and I don't mind not having DRLs. Turn signals and parking lights function normally.
HTH
Btw, fix the crack/hole in the light housing too. That's where the water comes in and constantly blows bulbs and causes corrosion.
10-26-2013, 03:00 AM
#14
Team Owner
LEDs do have their advantages; very little heat, very long lives, and very low current draw are just a few.
You're going to be adding a flasher bypass harness as well?