Driver axle seal leaking.....again/still
#1
Burning Brakes
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Driver axle seal leaking.....again/still
So my old diff leaked on the drivers side but very minimal. I had to replace the diff because it sounded awful at freeway speeds and after 2100 miles, the new one started leaking terrible; back of the car was black and ruined my plasti dip, lol. Had a local shop do the oring and axle seal, they said a staple had found it's way into the axle seal and had torn it, causing the leak. Its now leaking again, don't think its been 200 miles with the new seal. I had it on a lift today for a dyno tune and confirmed its the axle seal, not the oring... Is there anyway to fix this!?!? I HATE oil leaks...
#2
Safety Car
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Proper install of the seal is everything ! Check halfshaft spline area where it goes through the seal for any rough spots, wear or abnormal areas - replace if necessary. Remove old seal and check mounting area in diff side cover, it must be absolutely smooth and free of any foreign material. Buy a GM seal and not the Chineese crap from BillyBobs parts emporium. Install using a proper driver or socket if you don't have the tool. Lube it around the circumference of seal and drive in slowly / evenly making sure it is fully seated. Lube halfshaft with diff oil and insert slowly being careful of the seal. That should fix your problem, most shops do not take the time to do it correctly.
#3
Safety Car
Proper install of the seal is everything ! Check halfshaft spline area where it goes through the seal for any rough spots, wear or abnormal areas - replace if necessary. Remove old seal and check mounting area in diff side cover, it must be absolutely smooth and free of any foreign material. Buy a GM seal and not the Chineese crap from BillyBobs parts emporium. Install using a proper driver or socket if you don't have the tool. Lube it around the circumference of seal and drive in slowly / evenly making sure it is fully seated. Lube halfshaft with diff oil and insert slowly being careful of the seal. That should fix your problem, most shops do not take the time to do it correctly.
#4
Burning Brakes
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Looks like I'll be digging into it this week, is it necessary to drain diff oil just to replace seal? Seems as the seal is above fluid level
#6
Race Director
you have any weird vibrations? this is a really easy job. did you buy a quality seal like oem or felpro? if you did and they are seated correctly vibrations are one of the only things that come to mind
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I agree.. Make absolutely positive that the CV hub sealing surface is NOT grooved, rough or damaged. Carefully examine the old seal and see why it failed
Draining is not necessary if the car is level during the work.
Another item to check is the differential VENT on the top of the differential.
If it is STUCK SHUT, it can cause pressure to build up in the differential and it will LEAK from the weakest area. When the mechanic puts the car on the lift, have him open the differential fill plug and see if the differential is under vacuum or pressurized It should NOT be pressurized!!
With the vehicle level, the fluid in the differential should be right at the fill plug opening. If there is excess fluid, let it run out.
BC
Draining is not necessary if the car is level during the work.
Another item to check is the differential VENT on the top of the differential.
If it is STUCK SHUT, it can cause pressure to build up in the differential and it will LEAK from the weakest area. When the mechanic puts the car on the lift, have him open the differential fill plug and see if the differential is under vacuum or pressurized It should NOT be pressurized!!
With the vehicle level, the fluid in the differential should be right at the fill plug opening. If there is excess fluid, let it run out.
BC