Car kicks out of revers and 5th is a little crappy too
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Car kicks out of revers and 5th is a little crappy too
5th is fine for upshifting, but downshifting it prefers a blip of the throttle to get into gear smoothly. Revers feels like the shifter is extended almost all the way before it goes into gear, but once it's in it's no more sloppy than the rest of the gears. Difference is, it keeps popping out with a huge bang that royally pisses me off. Is there a bushing somewhere that might be wallowed out? Or maybe some bent linkage? 1-4 are smooth as silk, but since 5th and reverse are up in the corner they seem to give me the most crap. What should I inspect to find the problem?
#2
Safety Car
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When I click that, it says the page doesn't exist and redirects me to their home page. How do I navigate to that from the home page?
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
That looks like, even if it's not the problem, it's still worth doing on a car with 103k miles. Going to try that this weekends, thanks!
#4
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St. Jude Donor '08
Well, it sounds like you may have some internal mechanical damage on the reverse gear assy. Most likely a shift fork pad issue.
If you really want the answer,, Contact Rick Kim RKT56
RKT56
http://rkt56.com
Phone number: 301-257-0930
205 Bucheimer Road, #C
Frederick, MD 21701
Hes a transmission NINJA!
You can try to replace the transmission fluid. That may help the 5th/6th gear issue but not the reverse issue. If you have the old OEM fluid in there, new ATF will do wonders! Even if you use the OEM Dextron ATF
I recommend replacing the fluid with a synthetic ATF. The best I found so far is AMSOIL ATF. Contact forum member Subdriver for information and a great price.
Bill
If you really want the answer,, Contact Rick Kim RKT56
RKT56
http://rkt56.com
Phone number: 301-257-0930
205 Bucheimer Road, #C
Frederick, MD 21701
Hes a transmission NINJA!
You can try to replace the transmission fluid. That may help the 5th/6th gear issue but not the reverse issue. If you have the old OEM fluid in there, new ATF will do wonders! Even if you use the OEM Dextron ATF
I recommend replacing the fluid with a synthetic ATF. The best I found so far is AMSOIL ATF. Contact forum member Subdriver for information and a great price.
Bill
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Funny you mention fluid, the car does have 103k. I replaced the fluid with Walmart Dex/Merc back in June because it looked original and nasty. I've been thinking it's about time to swap it out for something good, but I'm inclined to thinking that if the fluid were an issue that 1-4 wouldn't act so normal. Rick can probably give a better answer than anyone else it sounds.
#6
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St. Jude Donor '08
If you have a newer fluid in there and still have issues,,,, trust me,,,, theres no MAGIC fluid that going to fix the remainder of the issues.. The higher quality fluids just last longer and perform better under sever conditions where heat is an issue.
Rick most likely has picture examples of the exact problem causing your issues.
Bill
Rick most likely has picture examples of the exact problem causing your issues.
Bill
#7
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For the OP, if you do opt to try the fluid change before more invasive work, AMSOIL recommends and I use for the Tremec in the C5/C5 Z06:
AMSOIL Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid (Product Code ATD1G)
More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
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AMSOIL Ordering Information (Retail sales using reference #1206638 benefit the forum.)
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#8
Safety Car
Thread Starter
At a minimum, it sounds like the shift fork pads are worn out, as is the reverse syncro and possibly the reverse gear. I didn't realize reverse was synchronized in this transmission, usually it's not. He said it's off by itself and to fix reverse only doesn't require all the tools, so I can handle it in my garage. Any deeper than that and it gets ugly fast.
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I just adjusted my shifter per the above article and I'm shocked at the difference. I haven't even driven it yet, but the gears feel like they're more in line with each other now. 5th and 6th were always a little out of line I thought, now they're parallel with the rest of them. Reverse is still junk though. After this coming weekend's track day, I'm going to change it out and get some Amsoil in there.
#10
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St. Jude Donor '14
Here is a good link that gave me some good info. Mine is doing the same thing and plan on fixing it when I have it off for clutch replacement. May be doing this next week so I will let you know if it works out. I like the tread on thirdgen.org because it has a follow up on how it is holding up.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...verse-fix.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...verse-fix.html
#11
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
If you have a newer fluid in there and still have issues,,,, trust me,,,, theres no MAGIC fluid that going to fix the remainder of the issues.. The higher quality fluids just last longer and perform better under sever conditions where heat is an issue.
Rick most likely has picture examples of the exact problem causing your issues.
Bill
Rick most likely has picture examples of the exact problem causing your issues.
Bill
The engagement teeth are rounded off.
These are 5-6 fork pads but reverse are similar.
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I'll be looking at doing this after my last track weekend of the season. I've even found a .pdf on ls1tech on rebuilding the whole t56. There won't be many "while I'm in there" fixes, I don't think the other forks come out that easily or else I'd do all the fork pads. Definitely going to shim reverse to perfection and top it all off with Amsoil fluids in the trans and rear.
#13
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I finally got around to doing this, did a clutch slave while I was in there with 2 new transmission output shaft seals, new o-ring between the trans and diff, used AC Delco white sealant, and replaced the diff output seals as well (but not the o-rings). If you're dripping trans fluid, it can't come from between the trans and diff as that's bathed in gear oil, so it can only drip from the union of the main casing and the extension housing. Must have been the case for me. I also took the opportunity to pressure wash the trans, diff, and rear cradle. It looks a lot nicer back there now, and I didn't even get it 100%. Reverse was exactly as pictured above, I flipped the hub, replaced the blocker ring (mine looked OK for clearances and all, did it anyway), and replaced the reverse gear and shift fork pads. Reverse is still stiff if you try to grab it first, but if you grab 6th then reverse it's butter and doesn't pop out anymore. I refilled trans and diff with Amsoil and am very pleased that this and clutch hydraulics no longer plague me.