TropicalVette

My harmonic balancer caused the belt to start making a loud squeaking noise that won't stop. Need to replace it and I don't want the stock GM one. I've installed ported LS6 heads, LS6 intake, 232/234 Comp cam (with all the other hardware required), long tube headers and other parts. I'm having to replace a crank pulley that I installed less than a year ago, since when I did the cam and heads project I did the new balancer as well.
I would like any of your recommendations for a good aftermarket harmonic balancer. Please help...

DooDooBear1999

ATI all the way.

QCVette

Everything I have read they seem to be the best.

However, they are kind of pricey. For the other end of the scale, the cheapest good one seems to be the stock replacement Powerbond. They go for about $100. I put one on a couple of years ago and happy with it so far (no wobble at all).

Good luck.

DooDooBear1999

Yea, they definitely aren't cheap, but I looked at it this way. I couldn't find anyone with a bad thing to say about them and I researched as much as I could. The consensus was I'd replace the car or the motor before I had to have the ATI rebuilt. I wasn't going to go with that ****** stocker again.

TropicalVette

ATI seems to be a good choice, as is the Powerband. The thing is that they aren't easy to choose from. They offer stock, 10% and 25% under drive, which I can't completely understand why this would be good. ATI has the all aluminum, steel/aluminum and just steel. There are so many choices and decisions to be made that I need guidance...

DooDooBear1999

I went with the steel/aluminum. Saved 3lbs in weight and no ill effects. I wasn't aware they make an all aluminum model. I went with stock diameter since underdrive poses the possibility (not guarantee) of charging issues. Do underdrive if you want to free up a few extra ponies.

crimsonwake

I went with the steel hub and aluminum pulley at 10% under drive, it's a fantastic piece. I'd also recommend getting a non torque to yield damper bolt.

bracketshark

Just call ATI and ask them what they recommend. Toll free 1-866-379-4632. Or just get the Powerbond unit and then wish you had got the ATI.

lionelhutz

I haven't read anything bad about the Powerbond damper, but not the stock replacement described above since the damper I'm thinking of costs about $200 give or take. I think the p/n are like this;
PBU1117SS - stock diameter
PBU1117SS25 - 25%
PBU1117SS10 - 10%

Lots of people here are running these dampers and no negative posts that I've seen yet. I've got a 25% under drive. If I did it again I'd likely go with 10% though. Have some cooling and power issues if it idles too much with everything electrical on.

DooDooBear1999

A local shop in the Raleigh area actually advised against the reusable ARP crank bolt because they'd had issues with them backing out after a while. Just food for thought.

TropicalVette

I really appreciate all your comments and suggestions. I always feel confident that I will find the correct answer for my Vette questions in this forum. Knowledgeable people that are willing to help their fellow Corvette enthusiast in a honest and uninterested manner. Thanks!!

Ohyoufan

I installed a 25% Powerbond Underdrive pulley on my FRC when my front seal went out and dug a groove into my factory pulley. You can get the 25% Powerbond Underdrive, the AC/Accessory belts, and ARP bolt for $245 even through Scoggin Dickey. I've had it on my c5 for a couple months and so far it has had no ill effects. I had a Powerbond 25% underdrive on my ws6 for years too as well. Keep in mind my car had been tuned as well so my idle and such was set accordingly.

ipuig

You should be more focused on the fact that your having to go back into it less than one year later than what aftermarket pulley to choose. I suspect your crank shaft bolt has backed out as a result of insufficient clamping force from not being torqued correctly. An aftermarket pulley will cause you the same problem if you do not install and torque it to the correct value.

road pilot

I am a part time race guy. I would recommend a keyed harmonic
balancer and make sure that it is SFI certified. You can find them
for less than $300. Good luck.

TropicalVette

Yeah, I have thought about having the bolt backing up as well, but I did feel bad about the balancer because it did look awkward and upon pulling it out I saw that it seems to have been dropped at some time and the rim is bent a little. The stealership won't accept that they sold it to me that way and I have no way to prove that they did. I called GM and they say that if the part was installed by the stealership on behalf of GM they could try to help, which is not the case. They added that since the car is a '98 model and it has been out of any warranty since 2001, I'm on my own.
I'm leaning toward the ATI 917266, it's the almost $500 that has me worried...

bracketshark

I'm leaning toward the ATI 917266, it's the almost $500 that has me worried...[/QUOTE]

Get a pin kit & a ATI bolt as advised, and the ATI balancer and there is absolutely nothing to worry about, concerning the Balancer. There is enough other stuff to worry about.

leadfoot4

Get a pin kit & a ATI bolt as advised, and the ATI balancer and there is absolutely nothing to worry about, concerning the Balancer. There is enough other stuff to worry about. [/QUOTE]

I believe you meant "ARP bolt"......

TropicalVette

I did the ATI 917266 purchase through Summit today. Hope to have it on by next Tuesday.

DooDooBear1999

This is the one I replaced my crappy stocker with. You won't be disappointed. VERY high build quality.

bracketshark

I believe you meant "ARP bolt"......



[/QUOTE]

Yep, ARP, sorry.