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Make sure that you match mark the flywheel/crank relationship.
When you reinstall the drivetrain, I found it MUCH EASIER to reinstall the torque tube by its self and then reassemble the TRANS/DIFFERENTIAL as a unit on to the torque tube.
Installing the torque tube first by its self will prevent you from damaging the clutch disk/hub. If you allow the entire unit to hang on the torque tube input shaft before it completly installed into the pilot brg, you can bend the clutch HUB /DISK
I was able to do the job all by my self that way without any issues.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 03-21-2013 at 01:09 PM.
Looks like a good start. Did you do those measurements to build a rolling stand of some sort? If so, I'm with Bill, just put the TT in first then add the trans and diff then add the cradle last. It's very easy that way and the transmission jack is all you need.
6-ton jack stands really are worth the extra money. Way more stable than the little ones. You can also easily go higher if your transmission jack doesn't go low enough to let you pull the parts out from under the car while still on the jack.
Every time that I see this post, I remember something that needs to be done during the reassemble:
Make sure that you do the critical measurements to see if you need a slave cylinder shim and if so, how much shim.
Everyone told me that I had to install the shim when I installed my SPEC clutch. The measurements proved otherwise. NO SHIM was needed on my Z!
You have an EARLY Torque tube. Found out the other day that there are TWO size rubber Gublios.
You need the smaller/thinner ones! 2001+ use the thicker more robust couplers.
Make sure you match mark the phase relationships of the rubber isolators and the parts that they bolt to.
Make sure that the ARROWS on the rubber isolators get installed in the correct directions and use high strength locktite on the bolts.
GIANT Snap ring pliers are a MUST and BE CAREFUL with that snap ring !
Ive heard of people reinstalling the torque tube separately, and that's probably what i'll do. It will be way too difficult to try and line up the splines and pilot bearing using the trans jack rather than lifting it by hand and wiggling it into place.
I'm going to get the balance checked on the pressure plate and clutch to make sure the items are individually zero balanced and not as an assembly. Also, I'm going to mark the position on the crank and flywheel when I remove them. I'll have a machine shop balance match the new flywheel and put the scribe mark on the new flywheel for me.
I would like to find some taller jack stands, but these still have 2 notches to go until at full height. Any taller, and I'd be spending at least $200 more for a set. I looked high and low for a set of stands, and came to a decision on these.
The measurements I made were just to get a ballpark idea of the angle, but I don't think i'll end up using them since I'll be installing the torque tube separately.
Not really following any directions. I skimmed through Dope's DIY just for the order of removing things so I could get it done faster. This job is actually way easier than it looks. Although I do have a GM service manual for reference in case I get stuck on something.
I'm aware of the slave measurements for shimming. I haven't looked into the measurement process in detail yet, but I read that it was on the Tick performance website. I'm not sure if it's in the service manual, but just in case it's not does anyone have a link to the directions on the Tick website?
I don't plan on making any more power, so the stock output shafts and pinion support will work perfectly. I'll be doing the rear end work. With all the kent moore tools I had to buy, it's going to be about the same price as having someone else do it, but I'd rather have the tools for next time. Also, knowledge is priceless. I plan on having this car for a very long time.
Well apparently motive didn't put the shims in some of their bearing and seal kits, and I was the lucky recipient of one of these :P. The shims are on their way from the supplier, but I'll have to wait on them before I work on the diff.
I've separated the diff from the trans and drained the fluid. It would have been way easier to drain the fluid while it was in the car. Some nice chunks in there!
Here are my new goals for the weekend:
-remove clutch, pp, flywheel
-clean up all the gunk
-master cylinder
-slave/TOB (may need to be shimmed later)
-Pilot bearing
-rebuild torque tube
-front and rear shocks
-rear spring
-rear end links
-front sway bar
-front end links
I know you have it up already, and I'm sure you know it's solid, but here is what I did for budget taller jack stands. Added another 3" to the height. I had the jack stands under the hockey pucks.
I also removed the trans dif TT as one assembly. I have to do it all again to replace the TT couplers I should have checked.....doh!
Mine is an A4, so not quite as hard to slide the TT back in with everything assembled, but it was a pain for sure.
BTW....the exh is my mod to tame the Borla stingers a bit. Sounds quite nice.
........Not really following any directions. I skimmed through Dope's DIY just for the order of removing things so I could get it done faster. This job is actually way easier than it looks. ........
Great write up. I expect my day is coming to do this too.
It is good to hear that it is way easier than it looks. What does that mean for time?
Great write up. I expect my day is coming to do this too.
It is good to hear that it is way easier than it looks. What does that mean for time?
We hope to see more as your project continues.
Thanks.
I really have no idea about time. I've been taking a lot of breaks and not rushing, so I haven't really been keeping track. As far as the drivetrain removal goes, I'd say it took me about 4 hours to get it all out.
It would take me a month if I had everything I needed on hand! 3/4 of that time would be spent cleaning stuff that will never be seen! OCD when it comes to the Vette!
cleaned up the bracket with the wire wheel and painted it. attached it to the poly mount.
the old and the new
You can see the holes the machine shop drilled in the flywheel to match the balance of the original flywheel. I also brought them the pressure plate to neutral balance, and they drilled 2 countersinks in it.
I had to shave some off the pilot bearing puller I got from autozone to fit inside the inner race of the bearing.
I also borrowed a slide hammer from autozone. I didn't return the puller.
The bearing came right out with no problems or slippage. you can see the puller did rip out some of the rollers.
Flywheel and pilot bearing installed. I do not agree that you have to mark the crankshaft and flywheel position, although I did because everyone told me to. All you have to do is line up the hole that is drilled in the flywheel to the one on the crank as you can see in the pic. This way, it will always be mounted in the same orientation, unless for some reason the hole on the oem flywheel wasn't lined up on yours:
clutch and pressure plate installed.
clutch access cover installed.
Still waiting on the torque tube bearing, and I had to order diff shims from the dealer. Stay tuned...
03-20-2013, 04:18 PM
99 FRC Drivetrain Rebuild + Suspension Goodies (Pics)
