maroon88iroc

So I am on the fence of buying this car or not. A friend of a friend is selling it and the car is 5 hrs away from me. My friend has looked the car over and describes it as very clean for the mileage. Pictures I have seen look nice. The car is red and the paint looks very good in pics, interior needs a few small things but is overal in good shape, also the car has chrome C5 Z06 replica wheels. My friend said he looked the car over then the owner told him the mileage and he was very surprised at the mileage.

I have several other cars and I am very cheap which is why I am looking to get into a C5 on the lower side of the price spectrum. Last year I owned a 01 Z06 and really loved the car and the fixed roof to me looks better than the hatch. I am just looking for a fun car that me and the wife can enjoy on the weekends together.

So what would you do, would the high mileage scare you off or would the low price be worth the added mileage?

I am also considering a 92 6-speed vette for $6500 with 110K miles.

mowe

Depends on condition..its a lot of miles for a sports car..but if the price is right and runs well...go for it

williamb81

i just paid 13k for my 99 frc with 100k miles if that helps you any.....
Saw a few for 9 but they all had reconstructed titles

Id low ball him at 8 bc of the high miles. then take the savings and build the motor...

Chicago1

For a few more you could get alot less mile. I agree ^ 8k would be my max.

bracketshark

It sound like its a decent deal but check to see how old the clutch is in it. That's an expensive piece if it were to fail. ~1500-2000$ if you pay someone to replace it with everything else that should be inspected.

socal_tom

Take a good look at the pedels , that will tell you how much stop & go the car has had or if it is more fwy. a car that was well cared for should go 250,000 no problem my opion

superjet701k

Yes I would and mod it to he moon.

F&Yb0dluvr

Just FYI, I paid $2800 for my LS6 CTS-V 400hp long block(everything except manifold,tbody and injectors) brand new. Stuff one of those in a car like that and you got yourself a near Z06 for cheap.

RC000E

I think the car is worth 9k for sure. I've owned 180k mile Corvettes that ran like champs. If the car appears taken care of, then I wouldn't worry about it. Like stated, you can upgrade the car for cheap and have a beast for next to no money.

Bill Curlee

Well,, here are some things to consider... What are the BIG ticket items that you will have to deal with. Here are some things that I would check:

Electronic Brake traction Control Module (EBTCM ) It is NO LONGER available thru GM or Aftermarket. If its bad, used is your ONLY option. NO the ABS fixer people can NOT fix the 97-2000 EBTCMs

Steering Wheel Position Sensor. Not sure it that is still supported but if yours goes bad, good luck finding one.

Drive train. Clutch and Torque tube bushings. Find out what drive train service has been accomplished or not accomplished. That many miles, and the clutch is soon to be replaced along with othger drive train components (Slave Cyl, Pilot bearing, torque tube couplers and bearings, pilot brg, flywheel...)

READ AND POST the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)!!!!!!!! When you go to see the car.. First thing that you need to do is read the DTCs. There may be a ton of old history codes! Write down whats there and then Clear all of them. When your done the test drive,, READ THE DTCS "BEFORE" you turn off the ignition!!. Note any DIC messages during and after the drive! (SEE PROCEDURE BELOW)
Take the car for a drive and see how it peforms. Should accelerate to red line without fail and brake straight without any pulling or plusations.

Normal oil pressure= right around 28-30 Coolant temps OEM STOCK 210 Alternator charge voltage = 14.0 VDC to 14.7 VDC

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READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.

Hope this helps.

Bill