andy9743

Planning to flush both the brakes and clutch. Doesn't look like they've ever been done. Recomendations on what to buy and how much? When bleeding the brakes I plan to do it "old school" with someone in the drivers seat and me breaking the bleeder loose to let the old fluid out. Is this acceptable? Start with the passenger rear then drivers rear, passenger front driver front? For clutch I plan to do the ranger method.


Thanks guys
Andy

Kmcoldcars

For the total flush of the brakes and then doing the clutch by the Ranger method multiple times I would recomment about 2 quarts of Dot 4 brake fluid.

Cybermind

Prestone Dot 4 synthetic fluid is a popular choice for both the clutch and brakes.

PS: Do not be surprised if your clutch starts squeaking while performing the Ranger method. It is normal. The squeaking goas away once you start the car.

johnson-rod

If it's NEVER been done I'd go with OEM fluids.

andy9743

The trans and rear end have also never been done and I'm planning to use amsoil in them...why woulkd the brakes/clutch be different?

pickleseimer

I used Delco Supreme 11 DOT-3 for the both the clutch and the brakes. The Delco Clutch & Brake Fluuid Super DOT-4 did make my clutch squeak immediately using the Ranger method. I did the modified Ranger method again before I even drove the car with the Supreme 11 fluid and the noise stopped - that's proof enough for me. The OEM spec for both the brakes and clurch is DOT-3.

I bought two pints.

I bled mine with a vacuum pump and vacuum jar. This did not require a helper and went quickly. Keep the pump going until you see clear fluid coming down/out of the hose. Remember to suck the old master reservoir fluid out first, refill the master full and then start at the wheels. Don't let the master reservoir go dry.

The procedure on my '01 was start RR, then LF, then LR, then RF (recalling from memory here). I believe that procedure may vary depending on the year so you'll want to check a service manual.

Cybermind

Why? What difference does it make?

johnson-rod

It's something my father said. He was a fleet mechanic responsible for 125 long haul rigs and 50 or so local delivery straight jobs. Hundreds of thousands of miles each, lots of different drivers, year after year. Incredible amount of real world experience.

If you haven't changed the fluid in a long time - don't change it. But if you must - put the same type of fluid back in.

I used to ignore the old duffer regularly. He would stand there laughing his head off while I had to rebuild master cylinders and slave cylinders, replace seals in engines, transmissions and axles.

So I feel bound to repeat his advice.

Now I personally use AMSOIL Severe Gear and Torque Drive in my rear and transmission. I have had zero problems in almost 100K miles. They are formulated to keep seals soft and TD is OK with paper blocking rings.

I did the Ranger method with that godawful expensive OEM Dot4 fluid then switched to STP and Prestone with no problems. I used Wearever once and had to replace both the master and slave within the month. Now I just use OEM.

C5Natie

I highly recommend a regular DexIII trans fluid. The seals preffer it and it has less frictions modifiers then syns so there a lower chance of slippage.

I use to use syn dot4 brake fluid but reciently found some non-silicone dot5.1. Handles high temps much better, mixes with dot3-4 and can handle hpde much better. Only thing better is a racing brake fluid.

callie454

I'm all for saving money, and using a friend to pump the clutch and brake pedals,...
But- I believe having the Motive power bleeder in my tool box is money well spent. I believe that it produces a better result than just pumping the pedals. Positive pedal feel, nice hard pedal.

Ranger method is pretty straight forward. Worked well for me.

I used Prestone DOT3 synthetic. I think I purchased 2 qts, might have used 1.5 in the process.
Hope this helps.

C66 Racing

Andy,
Believe GM spec'd DOT 3 for both clutch and brake for the C5 (which is what AMSOIL recommends). I use DOT 4 for both brake and clutch in mine at the track. Most newer cars spec DOT 3 for the brakes, and DOT 4 for the clutch (which generally sees hotter temps for street cars).

I think two bottles is enough for the brakes, one for the clutch.
AMSOIL Series 500 High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid (Product Code BF3SN)
Dry Boiling Point - 525F, Wet Boiling Point - 313F
(Spec 401F/284F)
AMSOIL Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid (Product Code BF4SN)
Dry Boiling Point - 580F, Wet Boiling Point - 410F
(Spec 446F/311F)

Note that the basestock of DOT 3 and DOT 4 is compatible so you can mix either of these with whatever is in the car now including OEM fluid.

dan1546

I thought I read some where that you should no mix dot3 and dot4. Is that right?

I have been doing the ranger method with Preston dot3 and it seems to darken quickly, maybe I'll try dot4 fluid if mixing won't be an issue. Thanks.

Cybermind

Not true. You can mix Dot3 and Dot4. They are completely compatible. You cannot mix silicone based fluid with regular.

C66 Racing

DOT 3 and 4 are both polyethylene glycol-based fluids and are compatible (with each other and across brands). DOT 5 is silicon based and should not be mixed with DOT 3 or DOT 4.

0tom01ss

a proper brake bleed need to use a scan tool like genisys to do a automated bleed through the abs block. this way its all clean