My process for install Kooks 2" headers (w/pic)
10-02-2012, 02:00 PM
#1
My process for install Kooks 2" headers (w/pic)
Hi everybody,
Here is my process - step by step - for install Kooks headers...
Not the Kooks process (i bet 1 billion $ that nobody success just by following kooks notice).
It's not a HOW-TO, i'm not a pro, just i have do it, and take a ton of pics.
They are installed is since 40 days, i made 3500 miles in 5 days just after install, done 2 weekend of dragrace.
The only issue i have (after the install) is that my ac line seems to be burn, and after the 3500 miles trip, no more airco, leak in the system.
Checking with the special light and glasses, nothing spécial
I have refill it, and at the pressure control period, all the gaz fall out.
At minimum, i have to lookingfor a new a/c line... or find the solution for a custom a/c line who dont touch the headers.
Just one number : 7
The number of day of my holiday i have pass to do the job
So... Here is my last holiday
Here is my process - step by step - for install Kooks headers...
Not the Kooks process (i bet 1 billion $ that nobody success just by following kooks notice).
It's not a HOW-TO, i'm not a pro, just i have do it, and take a ton of pics.
They are installed is since 40 days, i made 3500 miles in 5 days just after install, done 2 weekend of dragrace.
The only issue i have (after the install) is that my ac line seems to be burn, and after the 3500 miles trip, no more airco, leak in the system.
Checking with the special light and glasses, nothing spécial
I have refill it, and at the pressure control period, all the gaz fall out.
At minimum, i have to lookingfor a new a/c line... or find the solution for a custom a/c line who dont touch the headers.
Just one number : 7
The number of day of my holiday i have pass to do the job
So... Here is my last holiday
10-02-2012, 04:37 PM
#5
Day 1
First, here is the beginning of the Kooks notice
#1—Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
=>no problem with that, i have a "stop switch")
#2—Remove the plastic engine covers...
=>i haven't any engine cover since i drag race with the car
...and the coil pack assembles with spark plug wires.
=>DONE
#3—Remove spark plugs, and the alternator.
=>DONE
#4—Disconnect the air filter assembly from the engine.
=>DONE
#5—Disconnect the steering shaft at the rack.
=>Done, but after #11 step at #D step
#6—Raise the vehicle, and secure with jack stands. The vehicle will need to be 24 inches off the
ground.
#A[Personal notice] : Put off the oil dipstick
#7—Unplug front and rear oxygen sensors, but remove only the rears at this time...
=>DONE
...Also disconnect the AIR tube connections on the exhaust manifolds.
=>No AIR since 1 year
#8—Remove the starter...
=>Done, but after #11 step at #B step
...and disconnect the coolant temperature sender unit located in front of the number one exhaust port, drivers side cylinder head.
=>Done, but at the begining of day 2 at #H step
#9—Carefully remove the oil filter from the motor and disconnect the oil sender just above oil filter.
=>Done, but also after #11 step at #C step
#10—Remove the manifolds and the complete exhaust system.
If being reused, the cat back system will need to be modified as explained below If you are replacing the complete exhaust system, remove the two nuts that hold the connection pipes in place. They are located just forward of the flange of the connection pipes. You can then remove the two front oxygen sensors.
One side
The other side
With nuts
Without
The H pipe
Total of parts
#11—With care, inspect and clean the exhaust port surfaces using a gasket scraper. Use care the heads are aluminum.
=>DONE
#B[Personal notice] : Removing starter
#C[Personal notice] : Removing oil filter
#D[Personal notice] : Removing sterring shaft
#E[Personal notice] : Removing valve cover
Parts
#12—Both left and right headers install from the top. The engine needs to be raised. One side at a time! Also keep the opposite side motor mount bolt loose. When raising the engine to install the header, raise the engine as high as possible. On the driver’s side, remove the two ground wires from the block. Also remove the male and female rear oxygen sensor connections from one another, and pop out the retaining clip that holds the sensor to the chassis allowing the connections to hang down, not to be in the way as the header is lowered into place.
The driver’s side, it may require some prying of the engine to one side in order to allow the header to slide in.
#F[Personal notice] : Removing driver side bolt
#G[Personal notice] : (optinal) Enjoy comparing headers
Little story :
As you can see, i choose the kooks tubing to weld on normal H pipe.
BUT, this kooks tubing came alone (just ONE side).
Not the fault to kooks, but to the "well know big seller" (i think corvette forum rules dont allow me to speak of it).
I inform the "one of the biggest seller of race parts for us cars on the internet", and, in the same time, i check the date of avaibilility of the part... 3 weeks of delay
... (to late for me because 3 weeks is all my hollydays, and cannot work on my car after)
And, they tell that for having the 2 tubing, i need to resend us the only tubing i have
Another thing to know is that i'm not in the country, so, i have a person who have buy it for me and send me by post...
Biggest furius i was when the person who is in US have a postman at the door two day after, and waiting for have "the only tubing they send"... and only after "give the two tubing"... GRRRRRRRRR
So, for finding a solution, i friend of mine was just speaking about the man who is preparing is car (for putting a 350hp cosworth on his caterham)... i went to his garage, and in 3mn i find the good tubing (3 inch, good cruve, and too long) from a Race model of Mitsubishi Evo 9.
After 10s of cutting, 2 days for find the tools, and 2, 3 of 4 hours of job with a special tools, this tubing have took the perfect shape for the header can enter on it without any leak.
Next part to do was the 3 inch flange (after visit some local sport car parts sellers, and also truck parts sellers, no way to buy one)
So, solution was to use a brake disk... you can see the result one this pic, paint in black !
End of this story
Next... The o2 system...
I plan to use the only whole of the driver side header for the wideband... and simulate the narrowband with the special wiring for the heating simulation, and wire to PLX , so, here is my solution :
Normal wiring
Preparing of the simulation
Protection, like stock
End of the first day
#1—Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
=>no problem with that, i have a "stop switch")
#2—Remove the plastic engine covers...
=>i haven't any engine cover since i drag race with the car
...and the coil pack assembles with spark plug wires.
=>DONE
#3—Remove spark plugs, and the alternator.
=>DONE
#4—Disconnect the air filter assembly from the engine.
=>DONE
#5—Disconnect the steering shaft at the rack.
=>Done, but after #11 step at #D step
#6—Raise the vehicle, and secure with jack stands. The vehicle will need to be 24 inches off the
ground.
#A[Personal notice] : Put off the oil dipstick
#7—Unplug front and rear oxygen sensors, but remove only the rears at this time...
=>DONE
...Also disconnect the AIR tube connections on the exhaust manifolds.
=>No AIR since 1 year
#8—Remove the starter...
=>Done, but after #11 step at #B step
...and disconnect the coolant temperature sender unit located in front of the number one exhaust port, drivers side cylinder head.
=>Done, but at the begining of day 2 at #H step
#9—Carefully remove the oil filter from the motor and disconnect the oil sender just above oil filter.
=>Done, but also after #11 step at #C step
#10—Remove the manifolds and the complete exhaust system.
If being reused, the cat back system will need to be modified as explained below If you are replacing the complete exhaust system, remove the two nuts that hold the connection pipes in place. They are located just forward of the flange of the connection pipes. You can then remove the two front oxygen sensors.
One side
The other side
With nuts
Without
The H pipe
Total of parts
#11—With care, inspect and clean the exhaust port surfaces using a gasket scraper. Use care the heads are aluminum.
=>DONE
#B[Personal notice] : Removing starter
#C[Personal notice] : Removing oil filter
#D[Personal notice] : Removing sterring shaft
#E[Personal notice] : Removing valve cover
Parts
#12—Both left and right headers install from the top. The engine needs to be raised. One side at a time! Also keep the opposite side motor mount bolt loose. When raising the engine to install the header, raise the engine as high as possible. On the driver’s side, remove the two ground wires from the block. Also remove the male and female rear oxygen sensor connections from one another, and pop out the retaining clip that holds the sensor to the chassis allowing the connections to hang down, not to be in the way as the header is lowered into place.
The driver’s side, it may require some prying of the engine to one side in order to allow the header to slide in.
#F[Personal notice] : Removing driver side bolt
#G[Personal notice] : (optinal) Enjoy comparing headers
Little story :
As you can see, i choose the kooks tubing to weld on normal H pipe.
BUT, this kooks tubing came alone (just ONE side).
Not the fault to kooks, but to the "well know big seller" (i think corvette forum rules dont allow me to speak of it).
I inform the "one of the biggest seller of race parts for us cars on the internet", and, in the same time, i check the date of avaibilility of the part... 3 weeks of delay
... (to late for me because 3 weeks is all my hollydays, and cannot work on my car after)And, they tell that for having the 2 tubing, i need to resend us the only tubing i have
Another thing to know is that i'm not in the country, so, i have a person who have buy it for me and send me by post...
Biggest furius i was when the person who is in US have a postman at the door two day after, and waiting for have "the only tubing they send"... and only after "give the two tubing"... GRRRRRRRRR
So, for finding a solution, i friend of mine was just speaking about the man who is preparing is car (for putting a 350hp cosworth on his caterham)... i went to his garage, and in 3mn i find the good tubing (3 inch, good cruve, and too long) from a Race model of Mitsubishi Evo 9.
After 10s of cutting, 2 days for find the tools, and 2, 3 of 4 hours of job with a special tools, this tubing have took the perfect shape for the header can enter on it without any leak.
Next part to do was the 3 inch flange (after visit some local sport car parts sellers, and also truck parts sellers, no way to buy one
)So, solution was to use a brake disk... you can see the result one this pic, paint in black !
End of this story
Next... The o2 system...
I plan to use the only whole of the driver side header for the wideband... and simulate the narrowband with the special wiring for the heating simulation, and wire to PLX , so, here is my solution :
Normal wiring
Preparing of the simulation
Protection, like stock
End of the first day
Last edited by Steve@C56; 10-02-2012 at 05:33 PM.
10-02-2012, 05:23 PM
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,846
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I had the same problems with my 2 inch kooks also. I even had to take out my P/S booster and that to get mine in plus I had a lift. They where a pain in the azz for sure...Plus I had to get a new A/C line made up also keep doing the same thing also.. Robert
10-02-2012, 05:23 PM
#7
Day 2
#H[Personal notice] : Removing water temp sender
Lift the motor
#I[Personal notice] : Remove the intake
A ton of try...
#J[Personal notice] : Removing motor support
Another ton of try... No way without removing cradle
#K[Personal notice] : Go to removing the cradle
End of day 2
Lift the motor
#I[Personal notice] : Remove the intake
A ton of try...
#J[Personal notice] : Removing motor support
Another ton of try... No way without removing cradle
#K[Personal notice] : Go to removing the cradle
End of day 2
Last edited by Steve@C56; 10-02-2012 at 05:35 PM.
10-02-2012, 06:09 PM
#8
Day 3
Last try before removing brake booster :
#L[Personal notice] Removing brake booster
One of the four nuts under the dash :
Removing one of the four nuts under the dash :
All the nuts :
And now... the brake booster don't come
:
Alone... no solution... so, have ask for help here (FWI : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1581595302)
And, again, big thanks to robert miller (and alextz too), they explain me why the brake booster don't come !
End of day 3
10-02-2012, 06:35 PM
#9
Day 4
THE SOLUTION !!!
A couple a hours after :
The first header
See how the motor is jack :
Now, the other side !
#13Install the passenger side header, but do not secure it to the cylinder head until you install the starter first.
#M[Personal notice] Removing A/C line
Easy fit now !
#O[Personal notice] Put A/C line
#P[Personal notice] Put cradle
#Q[Personal notice] Put starter
End of day 4
A couple a hours after :
The first header
See how the motor is jack :
Now, the other side !
#13Install the passenger side header, but do not secure it to the cylinder head until you install the starter first.
#M[Personal notice] Removing A/C line
Easy fit now !
#O[Personal notice] Put A/C line
#P[Personal notice] Put cradle
#Q[Personal notice] Put starter
End of day 4
10-02-2012, 06:49 PM
#10
Day 5
#14Coat the threads of the oxygen sensors with anti-seize and install them into the Kooks headers. Then install the headers and gaskets with high temp silicone. Install the AIR tube fittings, then tighten completely. Lower the engine back into place.
=>No anti-seize... No high temp silicone... No AIR, but tighten completely and put back the engine into place !
#R[Personal notice] (optional) Wiring from wideband plug to PLX
#15Reinstall all items previously removed. The steering shaft, spark plugs and wires, air
filter assembly, the engine covers, coil pack assembles, and the reconnecting of the
battery.
Put steering shaft :
Put coolent temp sender :
End of day 5
=>No anti-seize... No high temp silicone... No AIR, but tighten completely and put back the engine into place !
#R[Personal notice] (optional) Wiring from wideband plug to PLX
#15Reinstall all items previously removed. The steering shaft, spark plugs and wires, air
filter assembly, the engine covers, coil pack assembles, and the reconnecting of the
battery.
Put steering shaft :
Put coolent temp sender :
End of day 5
10-02-2012, 07:23 PM
#11
Day 6
Cleaning under the intake :
#S[Personal notice] (optional) Change my oil pressure sender
I was at the full presure since a couple on months, even if the engine wasn't start !
See the temp where is was working on my car (temp in °C... so it's 125° F) :
End of day 6
#S[Personal notice] (optional) Change my oil pressure sender
I was at the full presure since a couple on months, even if the engine wasn't start !
See the temp where is was working on my car (temp in °C... so it's 125° F) :
End of day 6
10-02-2012, 07:29 PM
#12
Day 7
Day 7 was for welding the custom H pipe and put it on the car
First start... No noise change at idle (was already no cat before)
First wot... Here is the 2" noise !
First weekend of drag race... No gain because not able to tune before (clutch issue on the first 200 miles of my 3500 miles trip, and finish to change the clutch just the night before the drag race) and run VERY rich.
Second weekend of drag race... Great tuning BUT not grip at all (2 accidents in the weekend, a camaro 67 drag on the roof... and a rain in the grass)
My best time was 0.1s slower that my best time, at the end of the weekend, after the race, and with my girlfrind inside !
Third weekend of drag race... Perhaps in 10 days
THE END
First start... No noise change at idle (was already no cat before)
First wot... Here is the 2" noise !
First weekend of drag race... No gain because not able to tune before (clutch issue on the first 200 miles of my 3500 miles trip, and finish to change the clutch just the night before the drag race) and run VERY rich.
Second weekend of drag race... Great tuning BUT not grip at all (2 accidents in the weekend, a camaro 67 drag on the roof... and a rain in the grass)
My best time was 0.1s slower that my best time, at the end of the weekend, after the race, and with my girlfrind inside !
Third weekend of drag race... Perhaps in 10 days
THE END
yikes
10-02-2012, 09:27 PM
#15
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Chicago Illinois
Posts: 1,314
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Congrads on your header install. I just installed my SLP headers which people say are hard but yours were a total pain. I had my complete exhaust out in 2 hrs. Installation was a bit tough but not like yours. I had to unbolt motor mount screws and jack up motor a bit, move aside some coil packs, some sparkplugs, remove drivers side valve cover, unblot and move steering knuckle.Thats about it. Starter stayed in place. A little time consuming but doable with some motivation. The biggest PITAZZ was rerouting and insulation of the stater wires. This was the most frustating and time consuming part. Some of the cables had to be extended then insulated and run through the SLP header tube. I still dont feel comfortable about this but did my best. The car is only a bit louder since the headers have cats(corsa catbacks). This did wake up the car!
I can now burn good rubber from a stop and from 40mph or less when it downshifts ( I have the crappy 2.73 gears).
I can now burn good rubber from a stop and from 40mph or less when it downshifts ( I have the crappy 2.73 gears).
10-02-2012, 10:25 PM
#16
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,846
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Man make sure you use plastic tie,s on all the wiring around your starer and your 02,s. Wires mover around if you dont. Also not much room any more with those 2 inch header tubes running ever place Use a ton of tie man. Robert