Birdman

Random pic from the forum, but it's that rusted "L" shaped pin that you see with stock shifters/boxes.



When I switched to an aftermarket shifter, I didn't put that pin back in...is it needed and if so, why?

Baldfart

Bill Curlee

That my friend is the shift box neutral ZERO PIN.

Shift the trans to N and TRY to insert the pin into the hole. If everything is aligned, it will easily insert. If you cant insert it, you will have to loosen the TWO bolts that secure the box to the torque tube and move the box (fordward & aft) to align to the hole on the box to the hole on the shift rod. Once you can insert the pin all the way in, bolt the box back down and pull the pin back out and the box is properly aligned.

BC

Birdman

Ah thank you.

What signs would show that the box is improperly aligned other than the mentioned method? I notice that when shifting I usually have to wait a moment before the transmission will allow the gear lever to slide into gear. However, I think this has more to do with a nasty slave cylinder which more than likely needs flushing. (My reservoir gets black very quickly after doing the Ranger method, and the clutch sticks to the floor during high rpm/WOT shifts, making it almost impossible to shift again for a few moments).

lucky131969

The shifter is not installed properly, if you did not use the pin(or something of the same diameter) to align the new shifter. Take it back apart....

Birdman

Oh my, alrighty. All I did was take off the old shifter and put the new on...didn't mess with the box itself. Isn't that guide pin for the alignment of the shift box?

Bill Curlee

If your having issues shifting,, there are several things that you need to do/check/fix:

Align the shift box and make sure that you use some lithium grease on the shift yoke

If it were me,,,, I would FLUSH the clutch and master cyl by bleeding it.

Make SURE that your rubber isolator bushings that isolate that box from the torque tube are not worn/torn or damaged.

Change the transmission ATF fluid. If you own a 2001+,, switch to a synthetic ATF or run AMSOIL Torquedrive fluid. Contact SUBDRIVER for info on that. Dirty worn fluid will cause synchro issues.

BC

Birdman

Which two bolts do I loosen to align the shift box?

I wish I had a remote bleeder...

Will change the fluid in the transmission this week.

Bill Curlee

The TWO screws that secure the BOX to the TORQUE TUBE!

Yours will have RUBBER grommets. The ZO6 box (pictured) had metal washers.

Birdman

"Take it DOWWN a notch"

No need for the exasperation Bill.

I know what the box is, and I know what a torque tube is. However, just to clarify, you mean the two large screws in the picture that are in the front and back of the box, and to the right?

Also, I have a Z06.

Thanks for your help..

lucky131969

There is a difference between explanation, punctuation, and exasperation. Bill is the most patient guy on this forum(unlike me)....if your skin is that thin, you might want to have a cocktail,.....and return to the computer.

Birdman

Ah THERE you are! I had the above PREVIOUS question for YOU btw!

Oh, and thanks!

lucky131969

When you make a statement like above, it gave me the impression that you changed the whole assembly, because if you were just changing the shifter (and not the box), there would be no reason to remove the pin in the first place.

Birdman

Oh I see. Due to the little slot that the end (of the pin) occupies in the old shifter, the pin came out upon removal of the shifter.

So if I never messed with the box, which was stock and unmolested since the factory, I shouldn't have to worry about the alignment, correct?

And in which case, my "very notchy and delayed" shifting engagements are as I have suspected, a result of a dirty slave cylinder and/or transmission fluid.

lucky131969

Not familiar with a "dirty slave cylinder". With regards to the fluid...yes...that is certainly suspect...and that behavior is symptomatic of old fluid. Considering it takes all of 5 minutes to make sure the shifter is aligned, it would be silly not to scratch it off the list..........to each their own.

Birdman

I just meant that I haven't had a chance to bleed the system properly and have only been using the Ranger method to clean out the reservoir. After I "clean it" and drive it for maybe 30 minutes, it is back to being black (or dark) again.

I'll check the shifter alignment as well, since you're so adamant..lol

Bill Curlee

cruisemon

Change the transmission fluid. I had some of the same issues you describe, changed the oil and they went away. Also, you still need to check the shifter alignment

Charlie

Birdman

Fluid is changed. Made the rowing of gears MUCH smoother and nicer..

But the shifting INTO gear is still a bit...hesitant. I go to shift and there's a moment delay before the syncros seems to allow it to go into gear. Not sure if it's the clutch or syncros or something else..

dadaroo

Birdman, I also live in Columbia, SC. I also have the full factory manuals (all 3) for my 2001. Let me know if I can help you. I just removed my console last week so I can do a few things, including a cleaning and lubrication of my shifter and box. I have a lot of wrenching and electrical diagnostic experience and would be glad to help out if you need it. You can email me at shbailey@att.net with your phone number and we can talk.