Suprsaiyjinbroli

Just finished installing my Tick Master.

I was having some issue at high RPM as well as getting OUT of reverse. During the bleed it was very obvious how much MORE fluid the Tick Unit flows vs stock.

Anyway, I started up the car and noticed the clutch was disengaging the second I touched the clutch pedal. Oops!

I crawled under it and adjusted the rod length down towards the floor board. My getting reverse issue came back...so I tweaked the rod up a couple of turns towards the driver and now everything seems to be fine.

I have yet to take it out and try high rpm shifting. Gotta install my HVAC Unit later today when the mails gets here. Once its in I'll take it out and try the higher RPM range.

My concern now...is pushing TOO MUCH fluid into the slave and possibly blowing it or possibly damaging my new pressure plate. Everytime I read a thread on the adjustment section it usually seems a little confusing and/or vague.

Can anyone show me a picture...or give me an actual measurement to how their rod length is from say the heim joint to the rod dust cover? I just want to make sure its accurate...I'm too much of a worrier.

I feel as though the clutch is disengaging near the stock height and compared to stock, the pedal actually feels better...not stiffer...but a better "feel"...if that makes sense.

Any help would be appreciated.

I think I'm driving Rick Kim insane Rick you're the man incase you read this...thank you very much for all the help thus far.

Bill Curlee

I adjusted mine BACKWARD. I started with the clutch on the floor and ZERO disengage and added rod length until the clutch had the right disengagement and engagement. When you get the clutch correct, the clutch pedal will likely not be at the same OEM pedal height/even with the brake pedal.

If you go from the top and remove rod length, you risk damaging the pressure plate.

If you fully depress the clutch and can hit every gear with normal effort and then increase the engine rpm to about 4000 RPM and still have normal shift feel and the car doesn't feel like its creeping forward, your clutch is disengaging correctly. You can add a little more rod but I wouldn't add too much.

Bill



Bill

WKMCD

DO NOT OVER ADJUST IT !!!!!

You can and most likely will over-extend your slave which will cause you to buy and install a new one.

Suprsaiyjinbroli

Thanks for the reply Bill.

I took the car out and was trying out some higher RPM shifting and it was like silk. Loved it!

I just got done bleeding out the fluid that I put a beating on...I'm gonna let it sit over night and then I'll try to shorten/lower the rod towards the floor and see how it is engaging to ensure I'm not too high/long on the rod length.

Keep in mind...I had it backed off some and I was having a little issue getting the car out of reverse. Having the rod at its current length seemed to eliminate that.

I also double checked my pedal movement...looks like I can slip it with a little pressure but I don't get full disengagement till about half way to the floor.

Again, I'll double check tomorrow night and report back.

I understand. Thats my concern...hense the post.

Again, does anyone have a picture of their rod length...yes, I said it...that I can see. I'm sure depending on the clutch, length will vary but at least it'd give me some more peace of mind.

WKMCD

I've run the Tick master with both a Spec 3+ and now with the RPS CC dual. With both clutches the pedal was about an inch lower than the brake. I was concerned about it at first but after 15 minutes of driving you don't notice it.

As Bill said, adjust it from the bottom up until it completely disengages and shifts well...and then lock it down.

Suprsaiyjinbroli

Gotcha.

I just started over. I did what Bill said...I've got the clutch pedal sitting right now as close to the floor as it'll go with the Tick rod adjusted up to to the heim joint.

It looks like this sort of: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-c5-corvette/ The lockout nuts and turburnbuckle bottomed out against the heim (Clutch/Master Union).

I can't crank her up because of how late it is...but the car feels like its sliding into first and getting out of reverse fine this way basically set at its shortest point.

I'll test it on a flat surface, cranked up tomorrow AM and report back.

I appreciate you guys holding my hand on this...I just want to make sure I've got it before I tear up something.

Suprsaiyjinbroli

Ok.

I think I've got it...I'm basically back to where I was.

Thank you for the help everyone. I feel better about it. The clutch pedal is lower than the brake pedal but slightly...

Just for anyone else reading this...I could not get my clutch pedal an inch lower than the brake pedal even with it set to its lowest point as referenced by WKMCD.

I was apparently having issues understanding what the "lowest" setting meant. Now that I feel more confident...I did have it adjusted correctly originally. However, again, I didn't understand the "lowest" setting. That means have the pedal at its lowest setting and the turnbuckle and locking nuts at their "highest" setting...aka, those need to be against the heim where the rod meets the pedal and/or closest to the driver.

I believe Bill was explaining locations based on clutch pedal...and I was talking turnbuckle/rod. Again, another confusing adjustment thread...

Currently, my clutch pedal is its set maybe a hair lower than the brake.

My actual heim is also different looking...it doesn't have a "grease" point on it and my turnbuckle is black instead of metallic looking. I'm assuming I have a "newer" version of the Tick than the picture portrayed on the website.

Anyway, if I have mis spoke, please let me know so I can update my wording...I'm trying to make it a little easier for folks vs harder.