So, you're thinking about stuffing some big 18x12-18x13" wheels under your C5?
06-20-2012, 06:28 AM
#22
Le Mans Master
Please...PLEASE tell me where to buy that front splitter/lip. I understood Pfadt used it, but wasn't sure who sold it. I can never find it, but I know someone sells it. Can I get some directions!
06-24-2012, 02:09 PM
#24
Dig
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Port Saint Lucie FLORIDA & HONDURAS
Posts: 4,824
Received 761 Likes
on
517 Posts
I just tubbed my Z 3 weeks ago and put a set of 345/30/19's on a set of CCW 505a's measuring 19x13 wide.
Took 6 hours and $45.00 to do the install.
Had to grind down on the arm so the wheel wouldn't hit.
Looks badazz with 345 fully tucked under.
Took 6 hours and $45.00 to do the install.
Had to grind down on the arm so the wheel wouldn't hit.
Looks badazz with 345 fully tucked under.
06-24-2012, 02:20 PM
#25
Race Director
Same with mine 
315x30x18 on an 18x11 rear wheel
06-24-2012, 09:07 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
Funny post, too bad that kit was so poor fitting!
I've seen several write ups over the years where people just re used the portions of the inner fenders that were cut out.
I'm planning to do a mini minitub to allow a 12" wheel with 305s, I probably only need an inch or so.
I've seen several write ups over the years where people just re used the portions of the inner fenders that were cut out.
I'm planning to do a mini minitub to allow a 12" wheel with 305s, I probably only need an inch or so.
06-24-2012, 10:43 PM
#27
Resident moron
Thread Starter
Funny post, too bad that kit was so poor fitting!
I've seen several write ups over the years where people just re used the portions of the inner fenders that were cut out.
I'm planning to do a mini minitub to allow a 12" wheel with 305s, I probably only need an inch or so.
I've seen several write ups over the years where people just re used the portions of the inner fenders that were cut out.
I'm planning to do a mini minitub to allow a 12" wheel with 305s, I probably only need an inch or so.
Dope
06-25-2012, 01:38 AM
#28
Le Mans Master
Amazing what a difference an inch makes. I've got 18x11" Classics on the back of my Z and in the several years I have them I've never had a problem with them rubbing anywhere. The tires don't stick out either, they sit exactly at the fender edge.
06-25-2012, 06:46 AM
#29
Burning Brakes
Step 1: Measure wheel well and record all dimensions.
Step 2: Disregard all dimensions gathered during step 1.
Step 3: Manufacture parts that are approximately the size and shape of wheel well.
Step 4: Sell for large amounts of money.
Jack
Step 2: Disregard all dimensions gathered during step 1.
Step 3: Manufacture parts that are approximately the size and shape of wheel well.
Step 4: Sell for large amounts of money.
Jack
06-25-2012, 07:42 AM
#30
AKA "The CLOWN"
Member Since: Feb 2010
Location: Chicago South Suburbs
Posts: 6,261
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
I was also planning on doing a mini tub over the winter, but I had other things to do to the car first to get ready for my spring tune. I bought NT05Rs 345/30/19 and sold my 325/30/19 Invos to a forum member. I have not had the time to do the tub and mounted the new tires on 11.5 wheels with 1/8 spacer, and took out the inner fender wells and to my surprise they fit pretty good with no rubbing. I still want to do the tub and get my wheels widened to 12.5in so the tire is more planted to the ground. Here are a few pics with 345s and no tub...............
06-30-2012, 02:22 PM
#32
Race Director
Dope; thanks for another great post. Really guys, if you're interested in big tires, you need to use wheels with the correct offset, width, and at least 19" for the rears. I also use the Nitto Invo tires @ 325-30/19 on the rears, without any issues. I even have it fully lowered, and haven't had to trim the air ducts. The 325's are plenty wide enough for me, and work great on only an 11" wide rim.
07-04-2012, 01:34 PM
#33
Burning Brakes
The issue is I've got 285/35 RII's on OEM 10.5" Z wheels up front. The 10.5" wheel really stretches out the 285's nicely up front, but the 305's out back on the same width wheel have very rounded sidewalls. Turn-in response from the back of the car has been "mushy" ever since I went with the 305's out back; stretching them out on a 12" wheel should improve this condition.
I already have my 12" wheels (OEM 10.5" wheels widened 1.5"), I just haven't had the time to get to it. This combination will require approximately 1/2"-5/8" spacers to keep the tire where it nees to be.
I have one of my old bald 305's mounted on a 12" wheel for fitment and the sidewall profile looks much better. This will also improve tread contact, as right now the shoulder of the tires do not properly contact the ground with the sidewalls pulled in so much.
I hope Blitzkrieg gets around to finishing his wider wheel/minitub project... that looks prett terrible right now.
07-05-2012, 12:56 AM
#34
Race Director
The issue with cutting off the rear spring is solved by using coil overs. This also limits the drupe and the shaving down of the upper control arms.
The LPE kit is really good for the plastic tubes and offset mounts. The inner tubs take lots of work. You're better off using the stock ones that you cut and sliding them out and filling the gap with SMC / fiberglass.
Nice write-up.
The LPE kit is really good for the plastic tubes and offset mounts. The inner tubs take lots of work. You're better off using the stock ones that you cut and sliding them out and filling the gap with SMC / fiberglass.
Nice write-up.
07-05-2012, 11:39 AM
#35
AKA "The CLOWN"
Member Since: Feb 2010
Location: Chicago South Suburbs
Posts: 6,261
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
The issue with cutting off the rear spring is solved by using coil overs. This also limits the drupe and the shaving down of the upper control arms.
The LPE kit is really good for the plastic tubes and offset mounts. The inner tubs take lots of work. You're better off using the stock ones that you cut and sliding them out and filling the gap with SMC / fiberglass.
Nice write-up.
The LPE kit is really good for the plastic tubes and offset mounts. The inner tubs take lots of work. You're better off using the stock ones that you cut and sliding them out and filling the gap with SMC / fiberglass.
Nice write-up.
I have herd too many horror stories about the LPE tub and that it is just a little over priced!
07-06-2012, 05:32 PM
#36
Burning Brakes
Wow, Flashback from 10 years ago! I tubbed my car without the expensive LPE kit (less expensive in 2002 although). My Pilot Sports still rubber my fender on the inside, to the point that the lip is gone. It would rub the top and inner fender wall some on big dips and long sweeping hills, and that was without any fender liners installed. I had 19x12" with 73mm offset.
Tired of the expensive tires and rubbing issues, the 345's are gone. Nitto NT05 295's took their place and I haven't looked back.
Old 19x12 with 345/30/19
Current 18x11 with 295/35/18
Tired of the expensive tires and rubbing issues, the 345's are gone. Nitto NT05 295's took their place and I haven't looked back.
Old 19x12 with 345/30/19
Current 18x11 with 295/35/18
Last edited by M396 #00-011; 07-06-2012 at 05:46 PM.
07-06-2012, 08:40 PM
#37
Le Mans Master
I agree that it takes some time to do the LPE install correctly. I did not like the way that the included tub extensions fit my coupe so I ended up using parts of them, parts of the stock tub, and glassing everything together. It was quite a bit of work but I am very happy with the results.
I never did install any of the shock stuff and have never seen a need for it. I run 19X12 wheels with 335/30-19 tires. Nothing hits or has ever hits the spring or any other suspension part. When I autocross the tire will sometimes barely touch the inside of the inner fender.
I never did install any of the shock stuff and have never seen a need for it. I run 19X12 wheels with 335/30-19 tires. Nothing hits or has ever hits the spring or any other suspension part. When I autocross the tire will sometimes barely touch the inside of the inner fender.
07-06-2012, 08:44 PM
#38
Team Owner
I am running 335/30/18 on my 99 and they barely clear on the inside and slightly stick out (not enough to need flaring) of course I am running 11in wheels.
No rubbing since I went to C6Z06 shocks and sway bars
No rubbing since I went to C6Z06 shocks and sway bars
10-13-2012, 03:31 PM
#39
Melting Slicks
Last edited by CactusCat; 10-13-2012 at 04:02 PM.
10-14-2012, 09:14 AM
#40
Safety Car
Not sure
I have a C5 Zo6
As of last week my rear tires are as follows
325-30-19 x 12
Fronts
275-35-18 x 11
This to my knowledge was the widest that could be out on it without major
Hacking on the car...I went with the Nitto
I can tell you this if it matters I'm somewhere in the 455 to 464 rwhp I can't remember but my friend it will still break them lose
Sorry for your BS it does look like you have done one hell've job on your rebuild
As of last week my rear tires are as follows
325-30-19 x 12
Fronts
275-35-18 x 11
This to my knowledge was the widest that could be out on it without major
Hacking on the car...I went with the Nitto
I can tell you this if it matters I'm somewhere in the 455 to 464 rwhp I can't remember but my friend it will still break them lose
Sorry for your BS it does look like you have done one hell've job on your rebuild