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What's Inside Your 97-00 ABS Module (Photos)

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Old 10-03-2012, 11:03 AM
  #81  
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Wow!!!!!!!
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:08 PM
  #82  
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The relays on the part that I showed photos of that I have are fine.
They are easy to test.

Ron
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:21 PM
  #83  
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This is great news, now maybe somebody can figure out the steering wheel position sensor!
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:13 PM
  #84  
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Default You ain't fixing that!

Originally Posted by 59VetteFI
This is great news, now maybe somebody can figure out the steering wheel position sensor!
You ain't fixing that!

Chuck CoW
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:17 PM
  #85  
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Default Ebtcm

Hey MadMatt if you haven't yet mailed your unit out maybe COW could check to see if his fix would work on the module you had on your shelf.
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:42 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Chuck CoW
You ain't fixing that!

Chuck CoW
Ive had one a part and If its bad,, NOPE,,, STICK A FORK IN IT,,,,,,Its DONE!

The carbon resistance ribbon that the tiny pick off follower fingers use to pick up the position of the steering wheel signal wears off and you can fix that!

Its also sonic welded together I got it apart but quickly figured out, a new one was in order.

BC
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:08 PM
  #87  
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Is it "dolphin"? or however it is spelled.


Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Yep. I have used that before. This stuff is different. As I said before, it is like tough clear jello!
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:20 PM
  #88  
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Are you refering to "DELPHI" ???

Delphi is the manufacture of most of our electronics stuff.
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:38 PM
  #89  
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Nope. "dolphin" was, or is a waterproof sealer for circuit boards. It is what MSD uses, or used, on their units. It can be cut and or peeled off but I remember someone telling me that alcohol, IIRC, would remove it.


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Are you refering to "DELPHI" ???

Delphi is the manufacture of most of our electronics stuff.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:58 PM
  #90  
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Chuck are you saying this should be a similar fix for the Non-Active Handling ones too?

Thanks,Matt
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:00 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by FRITZM
Hey MadMatt if you haven't yet mailed your unit out maybe COW could check to see if his fix would work on the module you had on your shelf.
I have been behind schedule in a lot of things. Maybe this is a good idea to see if "ALL" or most are having the same issue.

I will talk with Chuck and Bill.

Thanks,Matt
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:05 AM
  #92  
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The EBTCM or EBCM depending on what service manual year you have fail in two distinct ways

POWER/GROUND & LOGIC

What Chuck repaired was a power issue. The module logic worked fine BUT,, it was unable to apply that control power to the MAGNASTEER COIL due to the burnt contacts in the relay

Same would be true for the other relay. That relay supplies power for the solenoid valve coils.

IF,, there is a logic issue (and thats the microprocessor under the green circuit board) Stick a FORK in it cause its DONE!

Thats not saying that there couldn't be an issue with the male and female pins that interconnect the EBTCM and BPMV.. That would need to be investigated.

Any electrical issue on that green board that is easily removed from the module should be repairable..

Relays that control high current applications frequently fail because of damaged power output contacts. They get burnt and pitted and unable to supply the proper current and voltage output/

When ever you have an issue with ANY module,, always check all the input power and and grounds to that module. Make sure that your getting FULL battery voltage to all the 12 VDC supplies. Especially the ignition switch supplied power.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; 10-04-2012 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:09 AM
  #93  
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I'm going to resurrect this old thread because I have an intermittent issue with my 2000 non-active handling FRC. sometimes I get the lights at start up in the morning, say once very two week. Shut the ignition off and it goes way and works fine for another couple weeks. Also, sometimes at 79 MPH I will get the lights, same fix, turn off the ignition and it goes away.

My thoughts about this is that the Chinese can copy/reverse engineer ANYTHING. they've done it with just about anything right up to high tech military equipment and missile tech.

I don't know about the costs involved or where exactly you find these people in China, but perhaps a known good unit could be sent over to be reverse engineered.

I may just be talking out of my buttocks here but I just thought I'd throw it out there for discussion.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:55 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by burbleflyer
I'm going to resurrect this old thread because I have an intermittent issue with my 2000 non-active handling FRC. sometimes I get the lights at start up in the morning, say once very two week. Shut the ignition off and it goes way and works fine for another couple weeks. Also, sometimes at 79 MPH I will get the lights, same fix, turn off the ignition and it goes away.

My thoughts about this is that the Chinese can copy/reverse engineer ANYTHING. they've done it with just about anything right up to high tech military equipment and missile tech.

I don't know about the costs involved or where exactly you find these people in China, but perhaps a known good unit could be sent over to be reverse engineered.

I may just be talking out of my buttocks here but I just thought I'd throw it out there for discussion.
And how much do you think this exercise would cost even in China for a very low number they might produce? You guys with these cars keep thinking that someone is going to reproduce these-VERY, VERY UNLIKELY. The only way would be is for GM to LICENSE the tech to someone to reproduce these and even hen the price would most likely still be staggering. There are plenty of cars you can't get new parts for and even the 01'+ cars will have issues one day. That's why the build NEW cars, most of the 97-2000 C5's really aren't worth much money as it is so maybe it's a sign to move on to a newer car?
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:57 PM
  #95  
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Anyone have any more NEWS on 97-2000 EBTCMs??????? This post has been quiet for a while.

TTT

Bill
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Old 08-16-2014, 02:55 PM
  #96  
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Bill,
I lost my job of 37 years back in October. I no longer have the fancy tools to poke around inside one of these.
I really hoped we could dissolve the clear gel and troubleshoot the capacitors on the substrate. Those could at least be checked for shorts, a reasonably common failure.
They walked me and others out the door. I'm not even sure I still have that unit.....
Ron
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Old 08-16-2014, 04:56 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Bill,
I lost my job of 37 years back in October. I no longer have the fancy tools to poke around inside one of these.
I really hoped we could dissolve the clear gel and troubleshoot the capacitors on the substrate. Those could at least be checked for shorts, a reasonably common failure.
They walked me and others out the door. I'm not even sure I still have that unit.....
Ron
Rom

Ah man,,, I'm terribly sorry to hear that. That sucks.

Have you been able to find another job?

Hope things turn out for the best.

Bill
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Old 08-16-2014, 05:13 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Rom

Ah man,,, I'm terribly sorry to hear that. That sucks.

Have you been able to find another job?

Hope things turn out for the best.

Bill
Thanks Bill.
It's ok. I'm 59 so just a few months from the 401k funds.
I'm in "ok" shape there.
I'd love to find a part time job working on hot rods or vettes. There are a couple of swamped shops here. But right now, I'm enjoying driving the C5 and racing the Nova.

Ron
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Old 10-08-2015, 05:33 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Hey guys,

Marc @ Vettenuts was kind enough to send me a dead unit to take apart and play with.

I heard about potting, can't get them apart etc. So I took this one apart.
The board is held in with 2 screws and is soldered to 2 connectors. The upper one brings in power from the car to the board and the lower one is the output to the solenoids. A little tricky to unsolder unless you are an electronics geek like me.

Board Removed



Underneath is where the magic happens. And is also the world I live in professionally. Pretty cool.
The large white circuit is a ceramic hybrid. It contains surface mount caps, one 8 pin IC, and a few surface mount resistors. It also contains a lot of printed resistors that are laser trimmed for value. They are actually part of the raw hybrid.
The large square shiny items are flip chip IC's. A flip chip has the connections on the side you can't see, and are actually solder bumps that are reflow soldered to the hybrid. The black stuff that looks like it is running out from underneath is called underfill. It essentially seals the connections, helps transfer heat to the substrate.
The wires coming off each end of the hybrid to the connectors are welded aluminum wires that bring the signals and power in and out.
This is a multi layer substrate. There are traces (wires) inside that you can't see.

Another thing you can't see, and what is causing the picture to be a tad blurry, is the clear silicone type potting compound covering the entire surface. It is very pliable. I can poke at the wires right through it. Think of clear jello! Very strange. This covering keeps all moisture out, and helps the unit withstand vibration.

Even though it is 12-15 years old technology, it's pretty high tech ****. In todays world, components are smaller, and the IC's more dense.

The printed circuit board is very conventional. Caps, diodes and relays. The high power side of the unit.

So, the big question. Can it be fixed?

Everything on the external board can be tested. Could get lucky and find something bad. It is actually pretty simple. If all those parts are good........going to be real difficult to repair the hybrid.

Other than the welded connections, without a schematic....good luck there.....I'm going to have to say no. Not unless someone from GM kicks out the schematic and test procedure for the built hybrid.

Enjoy the photo!



There are some numbers on this unit.
ABS-5/TCS/MSVA2
Delphi 09356961
6961 92010251

The one on my 2000 says TCS/AH, so my guess is the one in the photos is not an active handling unit ????

Marc didn't tell me what it came from.

I hope the steering wheel sensor is a lot less complicated.

Ron
I have a background in the geek world. Avionics, robotics, and even black box aerospace. Your article is precise and accurate. The top board is easy to check out i was able to activate the relays and measure contact resistance. The diodes check out easy with a digital multimeter. There are no resistors on the top board. I wasnt able to remove this top board but having seen your great pictures im glad i didnt waste my time. Its quite advanced the equivalent of 5o thousand plus tubes in old technology and cant and shouldnt be repaired at most shops correctly or safely. One gentleman said that on the top board there was a microprocessor. No, just a diode heat sunk to the board and i wasnt able to find its datasheet using the numbers on it. So its numbers are unique to the product and the manufacturer. They dont want you messing with it. I think its in parallel with the relay coil, so its job would be to divert transient relay voltages safely to ground. as you turn off a relay it can generate a large negative spike on the 12volt line which can destroy microcircuits easily. I have been lucky in repairing the air conditioning modules and door controls and lock modules, but my advise is to stay away from trying to repair this unit. There is a good reason they made it hard to take apart. Good luck
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