Yellow95

It says in the book that when you remove the rotor you need to "matchmark the position of the brake rotor to the wheel studs".

I guess this is only if you intend to put the same rotors back on, right?

Is this because the rotors may have been adjusted for lateral run out?

Also, the little star washers that hold the rotors on, do they just pry off and press back on?

Thanks.

dgrant3830

I truly don't know about any matching of rotors. The little star washers, if you can unscrew them off there, cool but otherwise you'll end up cutting them off. I don't believe they are there for any mechanical need on your car. I'm thinking they were there for the assembly plant to insure they stay on properly while the car is being assembled and before the tires go on. They don't appear to serve any other purpose that I know of.

TUF-NUF

remove and discard....

Quicksilver Vert 01

I believe the rotors were dynamically balanced with the wheels and tires, as a unit, during assembly at the factory.

After a few thousand miles of tire wear, it probably makes very little difference to reinstall the rotors in their original position or not.

dgrant3830

I don't believe so. I've been the assembly plant twice now. The brakes are already on the car for a while before the tires are mounted. I've watched the process personally.

mqqn

Tires/wheel assembly was balanced off of the vehicle before install, so no rotor in play for the balancing. Rotors would be balanced as a unit when manufactured.

I have never heard of this clocking of the rotors. Ever.

Throw the retainer washers away, they are evil.

best

mqqn

mel3535

I need to change my pads and rotors, don't mean to hijack the thread but is there any DIY guide or a link on how to do this? Never done it before but i suspect it to be same as most other cars, anything special i need to watch out for?

AntonioZ06

Nothing out of the ordinary. If you've swapped rotors/pads on another car, it's a breeze. While you're in there it's a good idea to readjust the parking brake shoes with the drum on the reverse side of the rear rotors.

bumble-z

I agree.

Bill Dearborn

The instructions tell you to discard the retainer and to reference mark the rotor if you plan on reinstalling it. There is some rationale for this since the rotor will tend to wear unevenly due to run out in the the rotor and the wheel hub. This happens when the pads get knocked back and only graze the rotor in one spot as the rotor is rotating without the brakes being applied. If you rotate the rotor in reference to the hub on re-installation you will get more pronounced thumping when you do use the brake pedal.

Bill

Yellow95

I finished mine. Not a bad job to do. The hardest parts were the bolts that hold on the caliper brackets.

I was able to get the fronts off by turning the wheel and getting a wrench and breaker bar on the bolts.

The rear right I got off with the breaker bar while doing some gynastics to get some force on it. For the left rear there was no access to get the breaker bar on. I wound up putting a scissor jack under the handle of the wrench and jacking the wrench up.

It was also interesting getting the proper torque on the rears, but I got it.

The job would be much easier on a lift so you can work the bolts better.

Bill Dearborn

Time to get an air powered impact wrench. Really makes it easy to take them off and tighten them. I don't worry about the torque value any more. I just hammer them on with the air wrench. Been doing that for a very long time.

Bill

Quicksilver Vert 01

That trick has also worked for me many times, and on other cars as well.

Gideon's_Test

LOL...I do the same thing...Never heard it put so eloquently before...

oh1vette

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...placement.html

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_07...ade/index.html

SteveDoten

it costs less than your insurance copay

or a 21mm wrench with a few hits will be much safer

I am with Dearborn on impact usage on these 100ft/lb binder bracket bolts

TUF-NUF

I agree, Steve; do you re-use the bracket bolts?? Manual says no.....

k24556

I use a swivel impact socket, SK tool number 34371 to get to the bracket bolt. I loosen them with an impact and the swivel socket allows just the right angle to loosen them with a Dewalt battery impact gun.

I found the socket on Ebay and it is one of my best purchases. I think it was $18 and free shipping. Just google sk 34371 and you will get plenty of hits. Handy as a shirt pocket

For the Fronts I turn the wheels to the right and that gives me enough clearance to use the swivel impact socket with a torque wrench. Wear gloves, this is a bit of a knuckle buster.

For the rears, I drop the tie rod from the knuckle and tie the knuckle so the bracket bolts can be accessed like the front.

When I do it this way, I can do a complete swap of pads and rotors in a couple of hours and a couple of adult refreshments.

I have replaced the bracket bolts, once, and after paying over $100 for GM bolts and washers, I decided to re-use and save the set for spares. Have yet to need a spare, but I have given one or two away at the track.

I use a dab of blue locktite, but it seems the threads are so close they push the loctite out of the joint. the new bolts from GM came with a dab of blue on them.

Oh yea while you're there spin the hub bearings and make sure they are silky smooth and quiet. This is front only, unless you drop the knuckle in the rear and pull the drive axles.