Low Washer Fluid -- Are You Kidding Me With The Search Results?
03-25-2013, 11:48 PM
#1
Low Washer Fluid -- Are You Kidding Me With The Search Results?
I keep getting the "low washer fluid" message on the DIC even though the washer fluid tank is always full. I am tired of having to hit the reset button everytime I drive my car, and I want to fix the problem correctly (as in I'm not going to just unplug the sensor or use a paper clip). I suspected that the orientation of the sensor might be off, so I used the forum's search feature to research the issue.
Wow! Are you kidding me?! There are a lot of threads about this. There is also a ton of conflicting information within all of those threads!
Here are some examples:
Wow! Are you kidding me?! There are a lot of threads about this. There is also a ton of conflicting information within all of those threads!
Here are some examples:
This happened to me as well, and after trying EVERYTHING I could think of I spent most of a Ben Franklin and bought the switch. This solved mine, but here is what I learned along the way.
Are you certain that the old switch was bad, and even more importantly, is the new switch good?
Second, orientation is critical here. I found that the switch worked the opposite of what I first thought. Now looking at it, it does make sense. When properly installed. the switch will be horizontal when the reservoir is at the correct level. Think of it as this; point your finger to the right, horizontal to the ground. Then point from the nickle downward. This is the LOW position (or closed circuit).
Are you certain that the old switch was bad, and even more importantly, is the new switch good?
Second, orientation is critical here. I found that the switch worked the opposite of what I first thought. Now looking at it, it does make sense. When properly installed. the switch will be horizontal when the reservoir is at the correct level. Think of it as this; point your finger to the right, horizontal to the ground. Then point from the nickle downward. This is the LOW position (or closed circuit).
It is a very simple switch in design. Make sure that yours is in "right side upward" to insure it is bad.
How to: the switch looks like a finger. In its correct installment it will resemble your finger pointed outward with your palm down. In other words it will bend to point downward to horizontal.
How to: the switch looks like a finger. In its correct installment it will resemble your finger pointed outward with your palm down. In other words it will bend to point downward to horizontal.
I'm a little late getting you a reply but looks like I'm first. Look at the back of your tank by the clutch res. You'll see a white plug. The flat side goes down, round side up. That's your float and it'll sometimes get inverted if you messing around in that area.
Anyone know the spec for the sending unit in the washer fluid tank, mine seems to be working but I get the low fluid message.
This pic I will call closed which would be LOW washer fluid and I read .000 Ohms
This pic I'll call open and reads 1. Ohms
Anyone know if this is in spec or whatever? Also, there is a notch in the top where it goes in to the fluid tank so I know it's not upside down.
Thanks
This pic I will call closed which would be LOW washer fluid and I read .000 Ohms
This pic I'll call open and reads 1. Ohms
Anyone know if this is in spec or whatever? Also, there is a notch in the top where it goes in to the fluid tank so I know it's not upside down.
Thanks
Last edited by LO PHAT; 03-26-2013 at 12:07 AM.
03-25-2013, 11:59 PM
#2
To continue...
Even though my car's sensor doesn't appear to be working, I have to agree with those who stated that the sensor should be positioned like this:
The flat spot is indeed "keyed" to the washer fluid tank.
Can someone please explain to me how everyone who put the sensor opposite of this ("finger pointing down") is claiming that it works?
Even though my car's sensor doesn't appear to be working, I have to agree with those who stated that the sensor should be positioned like this:
The flat spot is indeed "keyed" to the washer fluid tank.
Can someone please explain to me how everyone who put the sensor opposite of this ("finger pointing down") is claiming that it works?
Last edited by LO PHAT; 03-26-2013 at 12:03 AM.
03-26-2013, 12:19 AM
#4
Yes. I had it out of the car a few months ago because there was a leak where the washer fluid line connects to the pump. I replaced the factory rubber connector with a small piece of properly sized fuel line to fix the problem.
03-26-2013, 12:36 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2007
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A few years ago, (While installing the top side of the front coil overs) I had my tank off or lifted up & some how turned the connection (nearest the fire) wall 180 degrees.
Don't know how I managed that, but I did.
Had the same symptoms as you described.
Once I turned it 180 degrees (back) again, it's been working fine again.
Don't know how I managed that, but I did.
Had the same symptoms as you described.
Once I turned it 180 degrees (back) again, it's been working fine again.
03-26-2013, 01:14 AM
#6
I just measured the resistance of my car's sensor:
When the float is horizontal: 6.5 to 7.1 ohms
When the float is up (or down): OL (over limit)
IF
1) these measurements are within spec, and
2) it is correct that unplugging the sensor stops the "low washer fluid" message from appearing (as this should also be a situation with an OL ohm measurement)
THEN
it would seem to support the notion that the sensor must be oriented such that the float is on top and moves up (not horizontal) when the tank is full
This makes sense to me, but at the same time it makes some of the advice I read in other threads even more confusing. Wouldn't installing the sensor with the float pointed down or using a paper clip to bypass the sensor actually trigger the "low washer fluid" message?
My head is starting to hurt....
When the float is horizontal: 6.5 to 7.1 ohms
When the float is up (or down): OL (over limit)
IF
1) these measurements are within spec, and
2) it is correct that unplugging the sensor stops the "low washer fluid" message from appearing (as this should also be a situation with an OL ohm measurement)
THEN
it would seem to support the notion that the sensor must be oriented such that the float is on top and moves up (not horizontal) when the tank is full
This makes sense to me, but at the same time it makes some of the advice I read in other threads even more confusing. Wouldn't installing the sensor with the float pointed down or using a paper clip to bypass the sensor actually trigger the "low washer fluid" message?
My head is starting to hurt....
Last edited by LO PHAT; 03-26-2013 at 01:22 AM.
03-26-2013, 08:53 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Belleville Mich.
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My car is still sleeping out in the garage, along with my 3 set Vette service manuals.
If I remember correctly.
The sensor that is nearest & pointing towards the firewall, has wires coming from it.
If you cannot see this (unit,sensor???) orientation.
Remove the two (10mm ???nuts) & take a better look at that area.
Remove the the wires/connector, look at the sensor & turn it.
You will see a slot or lug on either the sensor or side of the tank.
When it is setting in the correct position, it should be easily seen to where it should/or should have been...according to the lugs/raised or recessed section.
If I remember correctly.
The sensor that is nearest & pointing towards the firewall, has wires coming from it.
If you cannot see this (unit,sensor???) orientation.
Remove the two (10mm ???nuts) & take a better look at that area.
Remove the the wires/connector, look at the sensor & turn it.
You will see a slot or lug on either the sensor or side of the tank.
When it is setting in the correct position, it should be easily seen to where it should/or should have been...according to the lugs/raised or recessed section.
03-26-2013, 10:07 AM
#9
My car is still sleeping out in the garage, along with my 3 set Vette service manuals.
If I remember correctly.
The sensor that is nearest & pointing towards the firewall, has wires coming from it.
If you cannot see this (unit,sensor???) orientation.
Remove the two (10mm ???nuts) & take a better look at that area.
Remove the the wires/connector, look at the sensor & turn it.
You will see a slot or lug on either the sensor or side of the tank.
When it is setting in the correct position, it should be easily seen to where it should/or should have been...according to the lugs/raised or recessed section.
If I remember correctly.
The sensor that is nearest & pointing towards the firewall, has wires coming from it.
If you cannot see this (unit,sensor???) orientation.
Remove the two (10mm ???nuts) & take a better look at that area.
Remove the the wires/connector, look at the sensor & turn it.
You will see a slot or lug on either the sensor or side of the tank.
When it is setting in the correct position, it should be easily seen to where it should/or should have been...according to the lugs/raised or recessed section.
03-26-2013, 10:21 AM
#10
...
So I ask this question to all of you reading this thread. Looking at the quotes I pasted into my first post, you can see that a lot of people are installing the sensor the wrong way. How are they claiming that it works in what would be an incorrect, upside down orientation?
03-26-2013, 10:28 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2011
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I can't answer how it works but I did go look at mine. The electrical plug has the locking tab facing the ground. So as long as that is facing down and the sensor is good it should work.
GL
Chris
GL
Chris
03-26-2013, 10:30 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
I agree with you as well. The flat spot on the grommet (if that is what you mean by indentation) lines up with the raised, horizontal line molded into the washer fluid tank. The sensor then has that same flat spot that must be oriented upward to "lock" against the washer fluid tank.
...
So I ask this question to all of you reading this thread. Looking at the quotes I pasted into my first post, you can see that a lot of people are installing the sensor the wrong way. How are they claiming that it works in what would be an incorrect, upside down orientation?
...
So I ask this question to all of you reading this thread. Looking at the quotes I pasted into my first post, you can see that a lot of people are installing the sensor the wrong way. How are they claiming that it works in what would be an incorrect, upside down orientation?
I've got the same problem - and having a pain in the butt of a time finding valid info.
Thanks,
Tim
03-26-2013, 11:11 AM
#13
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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There was a change in the coolant tank sensor where it switched which way the contacts were to indicate low coolant (shorted = low vs open = low) sometime part way through the production. Maybe the 2001 model year. It wouldn't surprize me that the operation of this sensor was reversed at the same time.
Your float is switching on and off so it should work on the car. Plug the float in and test it and find out which way up it needs to be to work. You could also try shorting the connector with a jumper vs leaving the connector open to see which way triggers a low coolant indication.
Your float is switching on and off so it should work on the car. Plug the float in and test it and find out which way up it needs to be to work. You could also try shorting the connector with a jumper vs leaving the connector open to see which way triggers a low coolant indication.
03-26-2013, 11:29 AM
#14
There was a change in the coolant tank sensor where it switched which way the contacts were to indicate low coolant (shorted = low vs open = low) sometime part way through the production. Maybe the 2001 model year. It wouldn't surprize me that the operation of this sensor was reversed at the same time.
Your float is switching on and off so it should work on the car. Plug the float in and test it and find out which way up it needs to be to work. You could also try shorting the connector with a jumper vs leaving the connector open to see which way triggers a low coolant indication.
Why I keep getting the "low washer fluid" message on the DIC is beyond me.
03-26-2013, 11:31 AM
#15
I guess I need to first ask what year your Corvette is since it has been suggested that the sensor design might have changed somewhere around the 2001 model year.
03-26-2013, 05:51 PM
#16
Drifting
So I ask this question to all of you reading this thread. Looking at the quotes I pasted into my first post, you can see that a lot of people are installing the sensor the wrong way. How are they claiming that it works in what would be an incorrect, upside down orientation?
It's up to you to sort out the noise. To take it to an extreme, would you make a life or death decision based on something you read on a forum? Me neither.
03-26-2013, 11:38 PM
#17
Why are you surprised that you may get erroneous information on the internet or this forum? One has to keep in mind that EVERYTHING on this and any other web source is only an opinion, which may or not be correct. When these opinions are backed up by official sources such as factory service manuals and publications then that is the best it gets. Everything else has to be considered purely speculative.
It's up to you to sort out the noise. To take it to an extreme, would you make a life or death decision based on something you read on a forum? Me neither.
It's up to you to sort out the noise. To take it to an extreme, would you make a life or death decision based on something you read on a forum? Me neither.
Errr ... OK ... ummmm ... yeah ... I don't mean to sound rude, but ............ DUH!
03-27-2013, 12:53 AM
#18
Race Director
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I looked through the manuals for the tank replacement. Up to 2001 the manuals shows to remove and re-install the float and the picture shows it installed hanging down. 2002+ don't mention anything about re-using the float or have any pictures.
My guess would be that despite it appearing the float lines up to the tank installed hinging up that it really installs hinging down.
When are you going to test it and let us know?
My guess would be that despite it appearing the float lines up to the tank installed hinging up that it really installs hinging down.
When are you going to test it and let us know?
03-27-2013, 09:13 PM
#19
I looked through the manuals for the tank replacement. Up to 2001 the manuals shows to remove and re-install the float and the picture shows it installed hanging down. 2002+ don't mention anything about re-using the float or have any pictures.
My guess would be that despite it appearing the float lines up to the tank installed hinging up that it really installs hinging down.
My guess would be that despite it appearing the float lines up to the tank installed hinging up that it really installs hinging down.
I pulled everything completely apart again. I cleaned up the float's magnet with bar soap and a toothbrush and then double checked that the resistance readings were still the same as they were before. I put everything back together exactly the same way that it has always been (with the float and flat spot facing up) and filled the washer fluid tank with distilled water.
I've run several errands with my car over the past two days since doing all of that. So far the "low washer fluid" message hasn't returned.