ABS stalled motor Code C1243 - Best Fix
#1
Burning Brakes
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ABS stalled motor Code C1243 - Best Fix
Jacking the rear wheels up, putting the car in 2nd gear, and easing up to 9 MPH fires the motor, and also fires the solenoids in the BPMV.
I know you've heard all the remedies, but this one worked really well for me when the others failed.
I had the stalled motor code 1243 coming on more and more often.
I initially used the method of separating the modules and probing pin 8 with 12 volts to run the motor for short periods. But this does not fire the solenoids, and just circulates old brake fluid around in the BPMV.
This worked pretty well for a couple years, only had the problem about every 6 months. But over time it increased in frequency. I even drilled a small hole in the module case and soldered a wire to the pin 8 connection, so I could just apply 12 volts to the wire without even touching the module (2000's are a bear to get to).
Well, this method finally stopped working well, as I would exercise the motor, and the next week the code came back.
So, I tried the "jack-up" method about a month ago - ran the rear wheels up to 9 MPH and let the ABS run for about 5-10 seconds. Did this about 10 times, with short cool-off periods.
NO MORE 1243 CODES FOR OVER A MONTH NOW - SO FAR SO GOOD.
My theory is that working the solenoids moves fresh brake fluid into the module passages, and maybe helps free up the pump?
Or, it could just be I'm driving it a bit more in the warmer weather, keeping the battery charged more. We'll see.
Oh, another theory; if the motor is dragging, it will put a much heavier load on the relay in the EBCM, and possibly damage it over time.
So, if you have a stalled motor code 1243, better try to loosen it up before activating the traction control and ABS in spirited driving or track days.
Man, I hope someone comes up with a fix for these '97-'00 ABS units.
I saw one out of a '99 on eBay yesterday for $1500 - probably on it's last legs too.
DG
I know you've heard all the remedies, but this one worked really well for me when the others failed.
I had the stalled motor code 1243 coming on more and more often.
I initially used the method of separating the modules and probing pin 8 with 12 volts to run the motor for short periods. But this does not fire the solenoids, and just circulates old brake fluid around in the BPMV.
This worked pretty well for a couple years, only had the problem about every 6 months. But over time it increased in frequency. I even drilled a small hole in the module case and soldered a wire to the pin 8 connection, so I could just apply 12 volts to the wire without even touching the module (2000's are a bear to get to).
Well, this method finally stopped working well, as I would exercise the motor, and the next week the code came back.
So, I tried the "jack-up" method about a month ago - ran the rear wheels up to 9 MPH and let the ABS run for about 5-10 seconds. Did this about 10 times, with short cool-off periods.
NO MORE 1243 CODES FOR OVER A MONTH NOW - SO FAR SO GOOD.
My theory is that working the solenoids moves fresh brake fluid into the module passages, and maybe helps free up the pump?
Or, it could just be I'm driving it a bit more in the warmer weather, keeping the battery charged more. We'll see.
Oh, another theory; if the motor is dragging, it will put a much heavier load on the relay in the EBCM, and possibly damage it over time.
So, if you have a stalled motor code 1243, better try to loosen it up before activating the traction control and ABS in spirited driving or track days.
Man, I hope someone comes up with a fix for these '97-'00 ABS units.
I saw one out of a '99 on eBay yesterday for $1500 - probably on it's last legs too.
DG
The following 2 users liked this post by The Wrench:
bobick (11-18-2020),
CorvetteBacon (08-17-2021)
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St. Jude Donor '08
I drive my car aggressively and activate AH a few times a week. I also exercise my Antilock Brakes whenever the streets are WET.
Find a safe flat straight isolated road and from 40-50 mph,, mash the brakes till lock up/ABS actuation. The wet roads will allow for easier tire slippage and antilock operation without as much tire wear and suspension abuse.
Frequent use keeps the BPMV motor and solenoids in tip top shape.
THE WRENCH
I like you ABS exercise plan also. Simple enough and effective.
Find a safe flat straight isolated road and from 40-50 mph,, mash the brakes till lock up/ABS actuation. The wet roads will allow for easier tire slippage and antilock operation without as much tire wear and suspension abuse.
Frequent use keeps the BPMV motor and solenoids in tip top shape.
THE WRENCH
I like you ABS exercise plan also. Simple enough and effective.
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Sunwarrior (11-16-2020)
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C1243 code
I drive my car aggressively and activate AH a few times a week. I also exercise my Antilock Brakes whenever the streets are WET.
Find a safe flat straight isolated road and from 40-50 mph,, mash the brakes till lock up/ABS actuation. The wet roads will allow for easier tire slippage and antilock operation without as much tire wear and suspension abuse.
Frequent use keeps the BPMV motor and solenoids in tip top shape.
THE WRENCH
I like you ABS exercise plan also. Simple enough and effective.
Find a safe flat straight isolated road and from 40-50 mph,, mash the brakes till lock up/ABS actuation. The wet roads will allow for easier tire slippage and antilock operation without as much tire wear and suspension abuse.
Frequent use keeps the BPMV motor and solenoids in tip top shape.
THE WRENCH
I like you ABS exercise plan also. Simple enough and effective.
Did give them some grief though, because they said the EBCM was bad but since it pointed to the motor I am hopeing to get a break on the price,... yeah, when pigs fly. anyway I'll let ya know what happens.
tomorrow, say a prayer for me,...
The prof
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Code C1243
Hey Wrench, it was raining out here in Crime Free Oakland,CA today so I was out spinning the rear tires hopeing to start up the motor but no luck. going to the chevy place to have them try your trick. Mainly cuz I could not find a gas station that had a lift that I could drive on to, yeah I know $ $ $ but it be what it be.
Did give them some grief though, because they said the EBCM was bad but since it pointed to the motor I am hopeing to get a break on the price,... yeah, when pigs fly. anyway I'll let ya know what happens.
tomorrow, say a prayer for me,...
The prof
Did give them some grief though, because they said the EBCM was bad but since it pointed to the motor I am hopeing to get a break on the price,... yeah, when pigs fly. anyway I'll let ya know what happens.
tomorrow, say a prayer for me,...
The prof
So, I called chevy customer service (HQ) and told them my story and that I will NEVER ! ! ! go to them for service EVER ! I said I could have this kind of service at a gas station ! BTW the whole 15 min. conversation was recorded by them, maybe something will come of it.
The Prof
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unstalling the motor
Jacking the rear wheels up, putting the car in 2nd gear, and easing up to 9 MPH fires the motor, and also fires the solenoids in the BPMV.
I know you've heard all the remedies, but this one worked really well for me when the others failed.
I had the stalled motor code 1243 coming on more and more often.
I initially used the method of separating the modules and probing pin 8 with 12 volts to run the motor for short periods. But this does not fire the solenoids, and just circulates old brake fluid around in the BPMV.
This worked pretty well for a couple years, only had the problem about every 6 months. But over time it increased in frequency. I even drilled a small hole in the module case and soldered a wire to the pin 8 connection, so I could just apply 12 volts to the wire without even touching the module (2000's are a bear to get to).
Well, this method finally stopped working well, as I would exercise the motor, and the next week the code came back.
So, I tried the "jack-up" method about a month ago - ran the rear wheels up to 9 MPH and let the ABS run for about 5-10 seconds. Did this about 10 times, with short cool-off periods.
NO MORE 1243 CODES FOR OVER A MONTH NOW - SO FAR SO GOOD.
My theory is that working the solenoids moves fresh brake fluid into the module passages, and maybe helps free up the pump?
Or, it could just be I'm driving it a bit more in the warmer weather, keeping the battery charged more. We'll see.
Oh, another theory; if the motor is dragging, it will put a much heavier load on the relay in the EBCM, and possibly damage it over time.
So, if you have a stalled motor code 1243, better try to loosen it up before activating the traction control and ABS in spirited driving or track days.
Man, I hope someone comes up with a fix for these '97-'00 ABS units.
I saw one out of a '99 on eBay yesterday for $1500 - probably on it's last legs too.
DG
I know you've heard all the remedies, but this one worked really well for me when the others failed.
I had the stalled motor code 1243 coming on more and more often.
I initially used the method of separating the modules and probing pin 8 with 12 volts to run the motor for short periods. But this does not fire the solenoids, and just circulates old brake fluid around in the BPMV.
This worked pretty well for a couple years, only had the problem about every 6 months. But over time it increased in frequency. I even drilled a small hole in the module case and soldered a wire to the pin 8 connection, so I could just apply 12 volts to the wire without even touching the module (2000's are a bear to get to).
Well, this method finally stopped working well, as I would exercise the motor, and the next week the code came back.
So, I tried the "jack-up" method about a month ago - ran the rear wheels up to 9 MPH and let the ABS run for about 5-10 seconds. Did this about 10 times, with short cool-off periods.
NO MORE 1243 CODES FOR OVER A MONTH NOW - SO FAR SO GOOD.
My theory is that working the solenoids moves fresh brake fluid into the module passages, and maybe helps free up the pump?
Or, it could just be I'm driving it a bit more in the warmer weather, keeping the battery charged more. We'll see.
Oh, another theory; if the motor is dragging, it will put a much heavier load on the relay in the EBCM, and possibly damage it over time.
So, if you have a stalled motor code 1243, better try to loosen it up before activating the traction control and ABS in spirited driving or track days.
Man, I hope someone comes up with a fix for these '97-'00 ABS units.
I saw one out of a '99 on eBay yesterday for $1500 - probably on it's last legs too.
DG
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I tried this on my 99 and I'm still getting the c1243 code. Should I try the 12v to the green wire atop the motor? No rain in sight, so the lock up procedure is out, unless I try a gravel road (not sure I want to do that). Anyone have any good ideas?
Thanks,
Sam
Thanks,
Sam
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Hey scooby99, yes try powering up the abs motor like I described in the post just before this one. just remember it will draw a lot of power so just 1 to 2 seconds and the motor should turn over. May have to do this a few times. Mine smoked a little but there is no option short of pulling the assembly out. Let me know how it works out.
The Prof
The Prof
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It looks like this but yours will be in front between the Rad and the engine on the drivers side:
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That is a demo chassis at the Bowling Green Museaum
You need to remove the EBTCM from the BPMV and probe the female contacts in the BPMV
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motor wire
You can do it 2 times but I'd wait 15 minutes until you try it again.
Also you may have to do this a few times over a week and it may not last but at least you got it to spin over.
I still have it come on from time to time.
Good luck
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Rear mounted EBTCM were only in 97 and early year 98 cars. In mid to late 98 they moved it to the front.
BC
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 09-21-2015 at 07:44 PM.
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1243
Jacking the rear wheels up, putting the car in 2nd gear, and easing up to 9 MPH fires the motor, and also fires the solenoids in the BPMV.
I know you've heard all the remedies, but this one worked really well for me when the others failed.
I had the stalled motor code 1243 coming on more and more often.
I initially used the method of separating the modules and probing pin 8 with 12 volts to run the motor for short periods. But this does not fire the solenoids, and just circulates old brake fluid around in the BPMV.
This worked pretty well for a couple years, only had the problem about every 6 months. But over time it increased in frequency. I even drilled a small hole in the module case and soldered a wire to the pin 8 connection, so I could just apply 12 volts to the wire without even touching the module (2000's are a bear to get to).
Well, this method finally stopped working well, as I would exercise the motor, and the next week the code came back.
So, I tried the "jack-up" method about a month ago - ran the rear wheels up to 9 MPH and let the ABS run for about 5-10 seconds. Did this about 10 times, with short cool-off periods.
NO MORE 1243 CODES FOR OVER A MONTH NOW - SO FAR SO GOOD.
My theory is that working the solenoids moves fresh brake fluid into the module passages, and maybe helps free up the pump?
Or, it could just be I'm driving it a bit more in the warmer weather, keeping the battery charged more. We'll see.
Oh, another theory; if the motor is dragging, it will put a much heavier load on the relay in the EBCM, and possibly damage it over time.
So, if you have a stalled motor code 1243, better try to loosen it up before activating the traction control and ABS in spirited driving or track days.
Man, I hope someone comes up with a fix for these '97-'00 ABS units.
I saw one out of a '99 on eBay yesterday for $1500 - probably on it's last legs too.
DG
I know you've heard all the remedies, but this one worked really well for me when the others failed.
I had the stalled motor code 1243 coming on more and more often.
I initially used the method of separating the modules and probing pin 8 with 12 volts to run the motor for short periods. But this does not fire the solenoids, and just circulates old brake fluid around in the BPMV.
This worked pretty well for a couple years, only had the problem about every 6 months. But over time it increased in frequency. I even drilled a small hole in the module case and soldered a wire to the pin 8 connection, so I could just apply 12 volts to the wire without even touching the module (2000's are a bear to get to).
Well, this method finally stopped working well, as I would exercise the motor, and the next week the code came back.
So, I tried the "jack-up" method about a month ago - ran the rear wheels up to 9 MPH and let the ABS run for about 5-10 seconds. Did this about 10 times, with short cool-off periods.
NO MORE 1243 CODES FOR OVER A MONTH NOW - SO FAR SO GOOD.
My theory is that working the solenoids moves fresh brake fluid into the module passages, and maybe helps free up the pump?
Or, it could just be I'm driving it a bit more in the warmer weather, keeping the battery charged more. We'll see.
Oh, another theory; if the motor is dragging, it will put a much heavier load on the relay in the EBCM, and possibly damage it over time.
So, if you have a stalled motor code 1243, better try to loosen it up before activating the traction control and ABS in spirited driving or track days.
Man, I hope someone comes up with a fix for these '97-'00 ABS units.
I saw one out of a '99 on eBay yesterday for $1500 - probably on it's last legs too.
DG
#20
ABS stalled motor Code C1243 - Best Fix
Or use a Tech2. Actuating the pump and fully bleeding the system can be done properly with the push of a button. Tech2 clones are now only about $300. Best money I ever spent.