C5blownz06

Id like to get a thread going on how many people have had a problem with aftermarket clutches not fully disengaging and hard to get into first or reverse as well as wot shifts especially 1->2 and 2->3 and having to either use a shim behind the slave or go with a adjustable clutch master to get a good proper clearance.

Not picking on any one brand here but I know of at least one manufacturer who has some issues with this problem. I'm about to change clutches and do not want the creep or have to run a adj clutch master either..

So lets hear it folks...Post your peeves with clutch brands and stock hydraulics not working for the the clutch.

tommie

Centerforce Dual Friction DF395010 no problems with shimming or stock gm hydraulics

just inc

Monster stage 3 with tick adjustable master
Doesn't want to go into 1st or reverse sometimes when sitting still
No problems shifting at WOT

ZZ06

you know what, even though i posted these symptoms in another thread, my car STILL did the 1st gear deal while sitting still sometimes. That was with the STOCK CLUTCH. Really thinking about it, i dont have problems shifting at WOT it just seems to me that i have to be a bit more aggressive to slam the gears.

PRE-Z06

I'll throw this out there in defense of all clutch manufacturers. Every cars tolerance from the back of the crank, both sides of the bellhousing, face of the transmission can have a slight variance. Those added up can make a variance in the release difference. Besides the physical differences, the condition of the hydraulics play a factor(ie clutch fluid/slave) and the competence of the installer(ie torquing the pressure plate down correctly) I've have installed numerous clutches and my current Monster in my FRC has zero release and engagement issues with stock hydraulics. I shift consistently at 7000+ rpm and generally beat the hell out of it.

Every car is different, you have a Tick so you should be able to overcome any variances with pedal adjustment. Otherwise, I'd take a look at the overall conditions of the hydraulics. Give me a call if you want to go into more detail, we strive to provide excellent customer service to all Monster users!

zeevette

RPS twin carbon, with Tick master. No problems with holding, shifting at WOT, or not completly disengaging. However, compared to stock, the engagement point is quite a bit higher off the floor, and extremely narrow, like about 1/8" wide from disengaged to fully engaged.

SUPERCRUZ

I will throw this out there for what it is worth. I wonder how much of this condition is due to poor clutch fluid maintenance. I just got through an episode of this with my car. I had just swapped out my clutch fluid with some regular GM DOT3 and was doing about 45 min of slow speed stop and go during a tuning session trying to simulate heavy traffic conditions. Ended up losing the clutch hydraulics due to excessive heat buildup in the bell housing around the slave. I am running AR headers and the heat got high enough the boil the fluid. Clutch started engaging closer and closer to the floor until it was hard to engage 1st and reverse. Car was actually creeping with clutch all the way in. Ran the car down the road and the the air under the car created a cooling action brought the clutch right back. Replaced the DOT 3 with some DOT4 Heavy Duty and this has helped tremendously. Just my $0.02.

RX-Ben

You always need to measure the TOB clearance when installing a new clutch or else you are risking an issue.

Specs are seemingly designed not to work properly. Even w/proper TOB clearance, mine would not allow shifts above 5k. They need to sell a Tick or change their design.

kp1

I just put together a spec billet steel FW & ACT HD Street kit with a new GM slave & Tick remmote & everything checked fine during assembly. No problem with the clutch disengaging, but it was engaging too close to the floor for me. My clutch master seemed fine but it didn't seem to do anything for the 1st inch or so of pedal travel. I installed a Centric oem replacement for <$50 delivered and the engagement is now about the center of pedal travel, so I'm good with that since as the disk wears engagement will move nearer the top of the pedal travel.

I guess the oem clutch master was just a little tired after 56K miles.