How-To repair EBCM avoiding costly repairs through ABSfixer or Fleabay
05-16-2011, 04:27 PM
#42
Le Mans Master
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Next time... Now I have a hole in the back panel. LOL I'm sending it to ABSfixer to have him replace everything that's needed.
I'll pick up a heat gun, though. I know it'll come in handy if I decide to take my BSMs off.
Thanks.
I'll pick up a heat gun, though. I know it'll come in handy if I decide to take my BSMs off.
Thanks.
05-16-2011, 05:57 PM
#43
Intermediate
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05-16-2011, 06:26 PM
#44
Melting Slicks
What about a 98 What is different in removing the cover
I haven't had the ECBM failure yet but have a 98 vert. Am thoroughly familiar with soldering and desoldering. Does the 98 ECBM come apart similarly. Does it use the same Digikey relay?
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99redvette99 (06-03-2022)
06-15-2011, 08:51 PM
#46
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I just found this thread on a search - great to find out that I can do the fix myself! My DIC sometimes throws a code, other times (after it's reset) it runs fine with no code for several cycles! This thread sure make's it sound like there's an intermittent short.
I want to replace the relay while I've got it opened up - can someone confirm the part number from Dgikey for the relay? I just want to make sure I get the correct one.
As always, this forum is a lifesaver - I love youse guys!
I want to replace the relay while I've got it opened up - can someone confirm the part number from Dgikey for the relay? I just want to make sure I get the correct one.
As always, this forum is a lifesaver - I love youse guys!
06-16-2011, 12:08 AM
#48
Yes, thats the correct part number I used this awsome write up to repair my unit a couple weeks ago...no more code!! Now I can choose if I want AH/TC on or not....Thanks to this great place Corvette Forum
06-16-2011, 12:37 AM
#49
Le Mans Master
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Geez. You guys are lucky you were able to get the back cover off. I wonder how many were impossible to get off besides mine. I ended up sending it to Brandon. Now it's his problem. LOL
06-16-2011, 12:55 AM
#50
Melting Slicks
IMHO the write up portion of this should be made a sticky. I had to repair the Twilight Sentinal in my 95 Impala SS when some solder joints went bad in a control module. The TS quit working 5 years ago and I found a similar write up on the Impala forum and in less that an hours time the system was working great again. Thanks to the OP and others who contributed to the process.
06-16-2011, 10:05 PM
#52
Oh the back cover was pretty hard to get apart , tried the screw though the hole trick, that didn't work
. So, I took a couple of screwdrivers and a hammer and beat it apart!!
Got a couple of chips and the edges but nothing major a little RTV and sealed rite up
If you look at corner of the module box in that pic, you can see the damage I did
Last edited by 02koolC5; 06-16-2011 at 10:08 PM.
06-16-2011, 10:36 PM
#53
Le Mans Master
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I see that... I wasn't sure how much shock that thing could take, so I didn't do any hammering. LOL I work with electronic boards all the time and they all have a low shock resistance so I'm always worried about things like that.
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99redvette99 (04-17-2023)
06-17-2011, 06:50 AM
#54
Melting Slicks
Sticky Sticky. Great info I have been contimpating looking into fixing my EBCM myself just because I knew they could be repaired. Now I know I am.
06-17-2011, 02:22 PM
#55
Just fixed my EBCM myself thanks to this thread. Just wanted to send a big THANK YOU! to everyone who has helped with tips and tricks and especially the original poster.
My additions... if you can find someone good to do it for $50 bucks it may be worth it but IMO $150 is a lot for this. Taking the unit out and putting it back in is half the work. If you have the correct tools replacing the relay and soldering the points is VERY easy and straight forward. Some tools I used to make it easier that I did not see mentioned in this thread:
Flush Cut snips...we cut the solders/posts down flat with the flush cuts and it worked great. Next thing is make sure you get a soldering iron that gets HOT and has a very thin point. The first iron we used was not getting hot enough and the tip was too large to get into the post holes.
Other than that everything went smooth. I am happy I did it myself and saved $150.
My additions... if you can find someone good to do it for $50 bucks it may be worth it but IMO $150 is a lot for this. Taking the unit out and putting it back in is half the work. If you have the correct tools replacing the relay and soldering the points is VERY easy and straight forward. Some tools I used to make it easier that I did not see mentioned in this thread:
Flush Cut snips...we cut the solders/posts down flat with the flush cuts and it worked great. Next thing is make sure you get a soldering iron that gets HOT and has a very thin point. The first iron we used was not getting hot enough and the tip was too large to get into the post holes.
Other than that everything went smooth. I am happy I did it myself and saved $150.
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Black1125 (01-25-2021)
06-18-2011, 12:51 AM
#56
06-18-2011, 05:47 AM
#57
Le Mans Master
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Yeah. In this situation, I think that worked in your favor as far as we know. Not to scare you or anything, but who knows what kind of long-term damage that may cause the electronics?
Either way, I decided to take the less-liability route. As much as I wanted to do this myself, I couldn't see myself beating the thing until it opened. At one point I thought about dropping it into a pot of warm/hot water. LOL
Either way, I decided to take the less-liability route. As much as I wanted to do this myself, I couldn't see myself beating the thing until it opened. At one point I thought about dropping it into a pot of warm/hot water. LOL
06-18-2011, 11:45 PM
#58
Melting Slicks
Thanks for the write up!!! I have been dealing with this code since I bought the car. Just ordered the relay. Hope to have it next weekend so I can tackle it.
What kind of solder is everyone using?
What kind of solder is everyone using?
06-19-2011, 09:45 AM
#59
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just a heads up.
A new relay isn't required in all cases and most only need to resolder. As I said in the write up, it's a "just in case." I still have my new resistor in the package, waiting on the original to crap out but it is nice knowing I don't have to wait on a new one if it does.
A new relay isn't required in all cases and most only need to resolder. As I said in the write up, it's a "just in case." I still have my new resistor in the package, waiting on the original to crap out but it is nice knowing I don't have to wait on a new one if it does.
Last edited by nvusgt; 07-10-2011 at 03:01 PM.
07-09-2011, 03:02 PM
#60
Burning Brakes
Just a heads up.
A new resistor isn't required in all cases and most only need to resolder. As I said in the write up, it's a "just in case." I still have my new resistor in the package, waiting on the original to crap out but it is nice knowing I don't have to wait on a new one if it does.
A new resistor isn't required in all cases and most only need to resolder. As I said in the write up, it's a "just in case." I still have my new resistor in the package, waiting on the original to crap out but it is nice knowing I don't have to wait on a new one if it does.