Bomeyer

Thanks! I'm going to start the removal process when I get back home on Monday and then send it off to Brandon.

GLF

Well, I tried this but it didn't work. I was trying this to be self sufficient to learn more about performing an electrical repair and since I don't have now and won't have the money for awhile to take it to dealer. I give up after spending 9 hours doing it once, rechecking, and then rechecking.

After replacing relay, putting it back in, and before starting it, I cleared the codes, but that same code came back C1214 H C. It won't clear.

If it's not the relay, do you have any idea what else it may be?

Biotex

Send it to a repair shop. Some charge $48, some $150, Either way you get a lifetime warranty. I heard there was a diode inside that goes bad. Perhaps that is your problem. The repair shops know what to replace.

vettefx76

Its easy to test the diodes too. Also, the solenoids could be sticky sometimes...

GLF

While I may be a nuclear engineer, I ain't no electrical engineer..... Electricity and electrical components are FM to me..... Or I could say, "a man has gots to know his limitations".

It's a shame since the directions and pictures really worked well, so I'm definitely thankful for that and not criticizing the info, without which I wouldn't have made it this far. I'll check out one of the rebuilt or repair options when I got the money. I just hate to keep driving around without ABS and active handling. TCS has never really meant that much to me.

Thanks, yall take it easy......

vettefx76

I just hate seeing any of the service lights or messages on!

Bomeyer

Brandon was able to clear the 1214 code but not the 1233 code ("won't clear; internal code and not repairable"). On the wait list for a refurbed one since it needs to be replaced. Excellent customer service.

vettefx76

I was able to fix my EBCM and a million thanks to the OP for posting this as I doubt it would have been possible without this guide. THANK YOU OP

I changed the relay and resoldered ALL the joints I could get access to, put everything back, NO CODES!! Took it out for a test drive and it works Guess the old lady can drive it now lmao

silk69

Thanks guys for this awesome write up. I just recently fell to the same problem. I dreaded having to go to the dealer to see what was wrong. So I came to my handy dandy trusted posting on CF to see if there was a fix. Lo and behold I found it. Now my soldering skills are shaky at best. I think I put on more solder than needed, I hope it doesn't hurt to have more. Lol. Anyway, I just did the test install, cleared all the codes and VOILA. everything is back to normal. Thanks again for this awesome post and keep up the good work of keeping us from paying the corvette tax.

Julius

01-4fun

Just a HUGE THANKS to this forum and all involved in this EBCM issue. With limited experience, I was able to follow these instructions and save $700 to $800. Soldered as directed and all went well. Only regret is having waited a month or so trying to get up the confidence to do the repair. One side note, had trouble removing center screw on the right side so I DID loosen the two nuts holding the unit in place. This allowed me to lift it slightly and gain better access to that screw. Again THANKS Dan

BOUT X

shoalsgary

I've tried everything else. may as well try this!

a/c man

Do I need to do this my codes are 1222 and 1226

01-4fun

I'm kinda new at this forum but I'll try to include the code list that I use:http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=50748
Looks like codes C1221 thru C1235 are the wheel speed sensor curcuit and the codes U1001 thru U1254 are for a lost communication. If the letter before the numbers in your code is a "C", I don't think I would mess with the EBCM.

If the letter is a "U", as was the case with mine, this EBCM repair sould help. Good luck. Dan

19corvette91

Fixed mine tonight!!!! Code is gone. All I did was resolder the relay joints.

a/c man

Thank you mine must have a bad sensor or connections

Bill Dearborn

C1222 and C1226 point to problems with the right front hub/sensor. A loose hub can cause an erratic signal. Check your right front wheel speed sensor and the connector behind the hub. If you can use a DVM put it into AC Volts mode on the millivolt setting, plug the leads into the two pins on the connector half coming from the hub. The spin the wheel and see if you get a voltage reading on the DVM. If there has been some rewiring going on under the hood make sure wheel speed sensor harness going to the EBCM isn't routed near a spark plug wire.

Bill

a/c man

Very helpful bill thank you.

a/c man

I got it fixxed today turns out it had a bare spot on the wire going to the wheel sensor they were touching Thank You

jpalamar

Bumping an old thread but just wanted to post that this repair worked for me.