Temperature sending unit, help!!!
08-23-2011, 08:05 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Temperature sending unit, help!!!
So I have been installing my headers over the past couple of days. After days of struggle I have finally got both sides in and getting ready to put the car back together and start it again.
However there is a problem, in the instructions it called for me to remove the temperature sending unit, which is a sensor located in front of the number one exhaust port, so I removed it. Now that I'm putting it back together the sensor will not screw back in. I have been struggling with it over the past 2 days It just refuses to be screwed back in. I can't figure out what to do. Do I need to replace the sensor? How will the car behave without having this sensor will it cause major problems?
If all fails I'm getting ready to super glue it back into place but I really don't think that's a good idea in such a hot place right next to the headers but its all I got left. All Help is appreciated.
However there is a problem, in the instructions it called for me to remove the temperature sending unit, which is a sensor located in front of the number one exhaust port, so I removed it. Now that I'm putting it back together the sensor will not screw back in. I have been struggling with it over the past 2 days It just refuses to be screwed back in. I can't figure out what to do. Do I need to replace the sensor? How will the car behave without having this sensor will it cause major problems?
If all fails I'm getting ready to super glue it back into place but I really don't think that's a good idea in such a hot place right next to the headers but its all I got left. All Help is appreciated.
08-23-2011, 08:24 PM
#2
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
You should borrow or buy a proper tap and clean up the threads in the head. A small amount of Teflon tape on the sender and screw it in. 15 lbs/inch and call it good.
08-23-2011, 08:28 PM
#3
Tech Contributor
What is the specific problem here? You cannot screw the sensor into the head, or the sensor is screwed in, but will not tighten? a.k.a. stripped.
08-23-2011, 08:45 PM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
The sensor wont screw in at all, just hangs there.
How are you suggesting I clean the hole for the head exactly? I have tried cleaning it with a rag but only where the sensor is supposed to screw in.
All help is appreciated.
Is there any chance the sensor might be broken? it looks fine to me, but hey u never know. I will upload pics of the sensor soon.
Last edited by soroZ; 08-23-2011 at 08:47 PM.
08-23-2011, 09:17 PM
#6
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
The tapered tap has a smaller diameter compared to the sending unit. It will allow it to start in the hole and clean the threads. Take your sending unit to your local auto parts store and ask for a tap to match it. It really isn't a big deal to correct.
08-24-2011, 01:37 PM
#7
Heel & Toe
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Do you really think "super glue" will hold aluminum and brass together at operating temp? Do you think it will give a correct reading...not screwed in rather stuck to the side of the head? Your current post versus what you've said in the past leads me to believe you're full of it. Someone that has built plenty of purpose built race cars which include a 700hp porsche and 500hp c5 would never suggest super glue'ing any thing on! i'm pretty sure this is your first sports car and the porsche and c5 were from forza or something.
Originally Posted by soroZ
Kids these days crack me up
I'm much older than u and have built and owned way more cars than u some of which were designed to go more than in a straight line. I build cars not read about em on youtube tell me of a real life experience u've had and then maybe i'll start listening.
I'm much older than u and have built and owned way more cars than u some of which were designed to go more than in a straight line. I build cars not read about em on youtube tell me of a real life experience u've had and then maybe i'll start listening.
Originally Posted by soroZ
My porshce made around 700whp but that was with little engine work.
Originally Posted by soroZ
I ran my c5 for tx2k in 06 at 500whp and lost to a good number of supras could only beat 1jzs and BPU supras I went 4-7 that year.
Last edited by silverc5z06htown; 08-24-2011 at 01:44 PM.
08-24-2011, 02:28 PM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
FYI super glue was a joke, it obviously wouldnt work at those temperatures.
08-24-2011, 03:12 PM
#9
Tech Contributor
Sorry, I don't understand this approach. You either have a damaged sensor, or a damaged head. In either case, teflon tape is not going to help. Inspect the sensor threads, and the head. If the sensor threads are good, then chase the threads in the head.
08-24-2011, 03:27 PM
#11
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
It there is even a question on the threads of the sensor just get a new one. It is only $17 from the dealer. Not worth messing with. ACDelco #213-4514
08-24-2011, 04:33 PM
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you gentlemen the teflon tape did the trick for now but I'm headed to chevrolet to buy another sensor cause I don't feel like having to replace it in case something is wrong, removing all the coil assemblies etc, just being on the safe side. Question is if the part isnt in stock at Chevrolet and I have to wait a few days, will the car still be drivable without the sensor? I'm assuming yes but it will just throw codes. Appreciate all the help so far.
08-24-2011, 05:48 PM
#13
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I guess I'm confused because I was sure that sensor screwed into the coolant jacket and, obviously, without it you'll have a big coolant leak making the car undrivable.
You must have done something goofy removing it or attempting to replace it. It's a pipe thread and generally pipe threads start fairly loose and then tighten as they are threaded together, meaning it should be easy to get the sensor to start in the hole. Are you sure you're turning it the right way? You're not doing something stupid like trying to install it with the wires connected?
If it really won't go then exactly how hard can you make the fix? Look at the threads on the sensor and get your head down beside the engine and look at the threads in the hole. If the sensor threads look bad then replace it. If the hole threads look bad then get a tap and fix them.
I'm not sure how the teflon tape could fix it either. Either it threads in the hole or it doesn't. The tape is just to keep it from leaking.
I wouldn't worry about it any further if you get it installed and the engine runs good without throwing any codes.
Peter
You must have done something goofy removing it or attempting to replace it. It's a pipe thread and generally pipe threads start fairly loose and then tighten as they are threaded together, meaning it should be easy to get the sensor to start in the hole. Are you sure you're turning it the right way? You're not doing something stupid like trying to install it with the wires connected?
If it really won't go then exactly how hard can you make the fix? Look at the threads on the sensor and get your head down beside the engine and look at the threads in the hole. If the sensor threads look bad then replace it. If the hole threads look bad then get a tap and fix them.
I'm not sure how the teflon tape could fix it either. Either it threads in the hole or it doesn't. The tape is just to keep it from leaking.
I wouldn't worry about it any further if you get it installed and the engine runs good without throwing any codes.
Peter
Last edited by lionelhutz; 08-24-2011 at 05:50 PM.
08-24-2011, 06:17 PM
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
I guess I'm confused because I was sure that sensor screwed into the coolant jacket and, obviously, without it you'll have a big coolant leak making the car undrivable.
You must have done something goofy removing it or attempting to replace it. It's a pipe thread and generally pipe threads start fairly loose and then tighten as they are threaded together, meaning it should be easy to get the sensor to start in the hole. Are you sure you're turning it the right way? You're not doing something stupid like trying to install it with the wires connected?
If it really won't go then exactly how hard can you make the fix? Look at the threads on the sensor and get your head down beside the engine and look at the threads in the hole. If the sensor threads look bad then replace it. If the hole threads look bad then get a tap and fix them.
I'm not sure how the teflon tape could fix it either. Either it threads in the hole or it doesn't. The tape is just to keep it from leaking.
I wouldn't worry about it any further if you get it installed and the engine runs good without throwing any codes.
Peter
You must have done something goofy removing it or attempting to replace it. It's a pipe thread and generally pipe threads start fairly loose and then tighten as they are threaded together, meaning it should be easy to get the sensor to start in the hole. Are you sure you're turning it the right way? You're not doing something stupid like trying to install it with the wires connected?
If it really won't go then exactly how hard can you make the fix? Look at the threads on the sensor and get your head down beside the engine and look at the threads in the hole. If the sensor threads look bad then replace it. If the hole threads look bad then get a tap and fix them.
I'm not sure how the teflon tape could fix it either. Either it threads in the hole or it doesn't. The tape is just to keep it from leaking.
I wouldn't worry about it any further if you get it installed and the engine runs good without throwing any codes.
Peter
08-24-2011, 08:24 PM
#15
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The threaded end of the sensor is broken off in the block without the hex head attached anymore.
Anyone have a good suggestion for getting the piece out?
Would the piece have a hole in the center that could be used to turn it out?
Anyone have a good suggestion for getting the piece out?
Would the piece have a hole in the center that could be used to turn it out?
08-24-2011, 08:30 PM
#16
Tech Contributor
Provided the piece that's left is solid material, I would use the largest ez out possible.
Last edited by lucky131969; 08-28-2011 at 07:08 PM.
08-28-2011, 01:56 AM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok gentlemen I solved the problem and the car sounds great with the new headers/x-pipe, just a tiny bit of smoke at start up from the oil in the new exhaust. The sensor was in fact broken into the head as the desperate results of me trying to squeeze the driver side header in. The super glue was really a joke, calm down guys.
Now for the solution, now I was a bit panicking and nearly ordered me some new heads LOL, but it literally took me 5 minutes to fix. I bought new sensor at the local dealership for $20, bought the easy out tool bits from sears for $18. I didn't even have to drill in the hole, I just got one of the extractors which seemed right, tapped it in with the end of my ratchet, once it was deep in enough, I just started screwing it back out, tada the broken half of the sensor came right out with no drama, and I instantly replaced it with a new sensor (as coolant started flooding out of the head). All in all a great success and the car has thrown no codes.
Thanks to everyone for their great help ESPECIALLY Eric D, who led me to the extractors. The solutions was very simple.
Now for the solution, now I was a bit panicking and nearly ordered me some new heads LOL, but it literally took me 5 minutes to fix. I bought new sensor at the local dealership for $20, bought the easy out tool bits from sears for $18. I didn't even have to drill in the hole, I just got one of the extractors which seemed right, tapped it in with the end of my ratchet, once it was deep in enough, I just started screwing it back out, tada the broken half of the sensor came right out with no drama, and I instantly replaced it with a new sensor (as coolant started flooding out of the head). All in all a great success and the car has thrown no codes.
Thanks to everyone for their great help ESPECIALLY Eric D, who led me to the extractors. The solutions was very simple.
