PPBman

I've had the 02 C5 since mid November. prior owner put in a new interstate battery. I failed NJ inpection due to systems not being ready to be tested on State's emissions computer, some say the car has to be driven and reset itself? whats this all about? Is their a resync procedure I can do?
I want to get rid of the failed sticker and pass inspection so I can drive the car now that it looks like the weather will break.
Thanks for your help

Sea Five

i dont understand why they wont just force the readiness tests, but they are correct. take the car for a long highway cruise if you have somewhere to go, take your vette. the evaporative emissions systems and catalytic converter monitors need to run random tests to verify they are working properly. they run the tests every once in a while. usually my o2 monitors set on a long highway cruise.

-Jeremy

vsocks1

Have you driven it much and is the car stock? Any codes?
There may be something wrong if you have driven it since November and it still not ready!

Old Horsepower

Try this : Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

This is what it takes to get ready for emissions test. Just a long drive won't do it.

sfc rick

Jeeezzzzus ....... I've never heard of such a complicated process to get registered in my life!

I'd fail just reading this stuff.......good thing I don't live there!

PPBman

thanks for the feedback, I'm driving it long this weekend

PPBman

I will try this procedure this weekend on the Parkway

vettenuts

Did you disconnect the battery over the winter? That will do it.

dougbfresh

The tests are called I/M monitors, they test things like Heated O2's, Evap System, etc. You can read their READINESS on the cheap Actron scanners. Here in Illinois you allowed I believe 2 not ready, some states allow one and some none.

ANYTIME you clear codes OR disconnect the battery, they ALL RESET.

PPBman

no its on a tender i reset the code P0171 and P0174

PPBman

so i should not have cleared the codes prior to emissions testing, the CEL light stays on then

dougbfresh

CORRECT-you clear ANY CODE or DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, all the I/M monitors get reset to NOT READY. You have to fix the issue(s) causing the CEL then run the car long enough to get the I/M monitors to go READY.

The CEL light on will also most likely casuse you to FAIL in most states that test.

dougbfresh

Well, most handhelds just test generic OBD Engine related codes and clearing any one WILL reset the I/M's too-I'm guessing that other susbsystems like SCM/HVAC/TC/.. will do the same. Since you can't get access to the I/M's from the DIC, you'll need something plugged into the OBD port, clear a NON-ECM related code from the DIC and see if the I/M's go not ready. The SCM code should not really trigger a CEL anyway, so passing emissions would not be an issue even with a Current SCM code.

mx597turbo

I dealt with this problem for weeks, trying to get the OBD to cycle. I wound up just going to a local tuner and the problem was solved within about 15 minutes. I went to TTP in Little Falls, NJ, but they closed. However I head that Matt moved to ECS (he's the one who fixed my computer issue)

Just go to ECS and they will sort out the problem for you.

Old Horsepower

Haha! You don't have to do all that procedure every time you get a smog check. Just normal driving over time will get them all done. These steps are good if your in a hurry and just changed the battery or something like that. Hope he passes!

Bill Curlee

There’s more to this than just drive cycle requirement.. Like it was stated previously, anytime you disconnect the battery or reset the DTCs you get IM Not ready flags until you complete the required drive cycles. This isn’t a GM requirement but an EPA requirement that GM and all other US Vehicles must comply with.

You can also get the same I/M not ready flags IF, you lose battery voltage to one of the modules involved in an emissions status (PCM/BCM)

You can have DTCs as long as the CEL light is NOT on. There are NON EMISSIONS DTCs that will not light the CEL light.

I have seen cars with a defective ignition switch fail emissions as the voltage requires to operate the PCM was not correct. You can go to AUTOZONE and they will be able to tell you if the I/M monitor status flags are Y or N.

If you have a weak or OLD battery, during cranking the starter will draw high current and the battery voltage can drop down below the PCM/BCM low voltage cut off.

What DTCs continue to POP when your driving?

BC

Chuck A

Wow thanks i also needed this info, my inspection sticker is up, and i will to get reinspected, and yes i just put in a new battery a little while ago, and havent taken her for a ride.

Bill Curlee

NOTE! If you FULLY FILL the fuel tank, the fuel tank portion of the test will NOT set ready till your below something like 1/2 tank. Have to look in the service manual for the exact level.

dougbfresh

That's why I have a cheapy Actron OBD reader, it can get the stuff you can't get from the DIC-you'll know if you'll pass BEFORE you go in. You can also use the reader on other cars.

Old Horsepower

"There’s more to this than just drive cycle requirement.." Yes but he is not saying he has done drive cycles and it still shows not ready. One step at a time..........