Can you tell me what's wrong with this 2003 Z06?
#1
Can you tell me what's wrong with this 2003 Z06?
My father has a 2003 Z06 with 150K miles on it. It does run and it can get you from point a to b but the engine will die out at stop lights and when you accelerate it seems to be kind of jerky like the car has hickups.
A Corvette owner at a local body shop said it's probably best to just purchase a factory rebuilt engine, granted he did not actually look under the hood. The guy just said 150K miles is a lot for a Z06 and getting a rebuilt engine was probably the best idea.
Given the symptoms I stated, do you think that's the best idea?
A Corvette owner at a local body shop said it's probably best to just purchase a factory rebuilt engine, granted he did not actually look under the hood. The guy just said 150K miles is a lot for a Z06 and getting a rebuilt engine was probably the best idea.
Given the symptoms I stated, do you think that's the best idea?
Last edited by dyingslownyc; 01-09-2011 at 03:20 PM.
#2
Safety Car
#3
Start by checking the car's trouble codes. Easy to do, posts here on the Forum will tell you how to do it. Last C5's advice is sound. A compression/leakdown test may be in order if codes don't show much and new fuel filter (if early 2003), plugs and wires don't help. Many C5cars, decently maintained, have done more miles than yours and are still in good mechanical condition. If you rectify your driveability problem(s), report back to the Forum on what you did. Good luck.
#4
Racer
Member Since: Jan 2006
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St. Jude Donor '10
These engines are bullet proof and can last a long time when taken care of. I would also have my fuel injectors cleaned along with new plug wires, and plugs. Cheap solution to some of the symptoms that you just mentioned. If that cures it, make sure you always use a high quality gas along with Techcron fuel injector cleaner every other fill up . . . that along helps a lot. Bottom line, when taken care of, the LS1 and Z06 engines can last well after 200K, and can also be rebuilt very easy thereafter for less than it costs for removing and reinstalling the engine. Do a search on how many miles on your C5 and that string of posts back that up very well. Good luck.
Mike C sends
Mike C sends
#5
Le Mans Master
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2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Both replys are true. I quess the real question is are you planning
on keeping the vette. If so then you will need to decide whether
to rebuild or replace the engine. It sounds like your small problems
can be fixed easily but in the long run you will need to decide
what are you going to do to have a reliable DD. Good luck.
on keeping the vette. If so then you will need to decide whether
to rebuild or replace the engine. It sounds like your small problems
can be fixed easily but in the long run you will need to decide
what are you going to do to have a reliable DD. Good luck.
#6
Burning Brakes
My father has a 2003 Z06 with 150K miles on it. It does run and it can get you from point a to b but the engine will die out at stop lights and when you accelerate it seems to be kind of jerky like the car has hickups.
A Corvette owner at a local body shop said it's probably best to just purchase a factory rebuilt engine, granted he did not actually look under the hood. The guy just said 150K miles is a lot for a Z06 and getting a rebuilt engine was probably the best idea.
Given the symptoms I stated, do you think that's the best idea?
A Corvette owner at a local body shop said it's probably best to just purchase a factory rebuilt engine, granted he did not actually look under the hood. The guy just said 150K miles is a lot for a Z06 and getting a rebuilt engine was probably the best idea.
Given the symptoms I stated, do you think that's the best idea?
This is just ridiculous! Take it to a trusted mechanic. Sounds more like a tune-up/minor repair issue.
Jack.
#7
Tech Contributor
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Holy crap. That body shop guy knows a lot about cars!
Read and post your DTCs.. Heres how:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
Coulld just need wires and plugs and It probably has a serious vacuum leak at the PCV fitting. They have a tendancy to dry rot and crack.
Check the intake ducting between the Throttle body and the MAF for any leaks. It must be sealed tight.
BC
Read and post your DTCs.. Heres how:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
Coulld just need wires and plugs and It probably has a serious vacuum leak at the PCV fitting. They have a tendancy to dry rot and crack.
Check the intake ducting between the Throttle body and the MAF for any leaks. It must be sealed tight.
BC
#8
Drifting
My father has a 2003 Z06 with 150K miles on it. It does run and it can get you from point a to b but the engine will die out at stop lights and when you accelerate it seems to be kind of jerky like the car has hickups.
A Corvette owner at a local body shop said it's probably best to just purchase a factory rebuilt engine, granted he did not actually look under the hood. The guy just said 150K miles is a lot for a Z06 and getting a rebuilt engine was probably the best idea.
Given the symptoms I stated, do you think that's the best idea?
A Corvette owner at a local body shop said it's probably best to just purchase a factory rebuilt engine, granted he did not actually look under the hood. The guy just said 150K miles is a lot for a Z06 and getting a rebuilt engine was probably the best idea.
Given the symptoms I stated, do you think that's the best idea?
from a post you made in the z06 section:
"Can you tell me what this Z06 might be worth?
Thank you for taking the time to read this and hopefully helping me out.
My father has a black 2003 Z06 with 150K miles on it. He had to leave it in a lot for the past two years, uncovered, because it was not running right and he figured he would need to purchase a factory rebuilt engine to get it back on the road.
Out of curiosity, what do you think he could get for a 2003 black Z06 with 150K miles that has been sitting in a lot with no cover for 2 years in New York City?
I am basically looking for major ballpark figures here. Thank you for your time."
now everyone may have more of an idea that this is not your everyday problem.
this vehicle will have some serious problems after sitting, uncovered, for 2 years in new york city.
Last edited by imavettegirl; 01-09-2011 at 04:15 PM.
#9
before you get everyone here to give some solutions you should be a lot more honest about this vehicle.
from a post you made in the z06 section:
"Can you tell me what this Z06 might be worth?
Thank you for taking the time to read this and hopefully helping me out.
My father has a black 2003 Z06 with 150K miles on it. He had to leave it in a lot for the past two years, uncovered, because it was not running right and he figured he would need to purchase a factory rebuilt engine to get it back on the road.
Out of curiosity, what do you think he could get for a 2003 black Z06 with 150K miles that has been sitting in a lot with no cover for 2 years in New York City?
I am basically looking for major ballpark figures here. Thank you for your time."
now everyone may have more of an idea that this is not your everyday problem.
this vehicle will have some serious problems after sitting, uncovered, for 2 years in new york city.
from a post you made in the z06 section:
"Can you tell me what this Z06 might be worth?
Thank you for taking the time to read this and hopefully helping me out.
My father has a black 2003 Z06 with 150K miles on it. He had to leave it in a lot for the past two years, uncovered, because it was not running right and he figured he would need to purchase a factory rebuilt engine to get it back on the road.
Out of curiosity, what do you think he could get for a 2003 black Z06 with 150K miles that has been sitting in a lot with no cover for 2 years in New York City?
I am basically looking for major ballpark figures here. Thank you for your time."
now everyone may have more of an idea that this is not your everyday problem.
this vehicle will have some serious problems after sitting, uncovered, for 2 years in new york city.
I will check the cars error messages ASAP. Thank you everybody
FYI, after making my first thread here, I was sent a PM advising me to get some help in the tech forum, which is why I posted my second thread.
#10
Racer
Just from a purely mechanical point of view, never mind the cosmetics (paint, leather & vinyl) because the car sat uncovered & idle for so long, besides all of the rubber drying out (seals, gaskets, belts, hoses, o rings & tires) on body, engine, transmission and diff, the tires are probably out of round as well and all of the oils & hydraulic fluids (engine oil, brake, power steering, tranny, diff) probably have moisture contamination from day-night heating & cooling condensation and the fuel, filter, tanks & lines probably have a lot of crud built up. The car will need more than a tune-up. For my .02 cents, if you can find a buyer, I'd be a seller. IMO the car running rough is just the beginning of the problems to come. I'm not making fun, but I think you have a '03 money pit. Good luck.
Last edited by Florida99; 01-09-2011 at 05:12 PM.
#11
Drifting
i was advising you to tell the WHOLE story.
that you posted it here is what you should have done.
as you can see the post right after has already changed with the added info i posted.
that you posted it here is what you should have done.
as you can see the post right after has already changed with the added info i posted.
#12
Racer
#14
Race Director
post in your region section...
Ask for a recommendation on reputable Corvette mechanic.
The previous posts are correct about tuning, plugs wires, codes, fuel filter fuel injectors.....
Ask for a recommendation on reputable Corvette mechanic.
The previous posts are correct about tuning, plugs wires, codes, fuel filter fuel injectors.....
#15
Team Owner
Does it still have two year old gas in it? If so, I am surprised it runs at all.
I highly doubt it needs an engine, but it needs someone knowledgeable to look at it. Make sure you tell them its been sitting for two years.
I highly doubt it needs an engine, but it needs someone knowledgeable to look at it. Make sure you tell them its been sitting for two years.
#16
Drifting
i don't believe that he said it was running lately.
i think he was describing how it ran 2 years ago when his dad parked it.
i highly doubt that this is a salvageable motor or vehicle without spending way more than it will be worth.
i think he was describing how it ran 2 years ago when his dad parked it.
i highly doubt that this is a salvageable motor or vehicle without spending way more than it will be worth.
#17
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: (S) Walton County NW FL
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855 Posts
thank you for the advice and for listing my other threads info. I hope it helps people.
I will check the cars error messages ASAP. Thank you everybody
FYI, after making my first thread here, I was sent a PM advising me to get some help in the tech forum, which is why I posted my second thread.
I will check the cars error messages ASAP. Thank you everybody
FYI, after making my first thread here, I was sent a PM advising me to get some help in the tech forum, which is why I posted my second thread.
I sent him to TECH knowing his issues with the car would be fully addressed over here. And I see they are.
Cut the guy some slack. If there are other issues maybe a PM would work next time?
#18
Team Owner
However, I would be willing to take the car off your hands if you want to get rid of it.