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Cranks but no start: car is stuck on the side of the road

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Old 09-30-2010, 02:55 PM
  #1  
VegasJen
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Default Cranks but no start: car is stuck on the side of the road

Need help guys, and I've just spent the last 1/2 hour going through the stickies and searching.
Here's the deal. The Mrs took the car to a job this morning. No problems, at least nothing we didn't already know about. The car has been throwing a few codes for a while. I've checked grounds, battery cables and fuses and found no problems. I have a known bad TC module.
She drives over to the job, parks and when she goes to leave 1.5 hours later, car will not start. It cranks and sounds like it wants to start, feels like it will fire one or two cylinders, but it won't run.
I went over to see if I could figure out what's going on. I checked fuel pressure at the rail and pressure seems good. I checked all the fuses I could find for ECM/BCM and engine.
I pulled codes off the dash and the only new codes that show up are (this sucks) B2587 and B2892 (column lock). But I have the CLB installed so I don't know what this could possibly have to do with the car not starting. Will a failed column lock cause a no start? If so, since I have CLB, can I bypass the error?
Naturally I suspected VATS but I don't get a security light on the dash. Although I tried multiple starts and did get one "Pull Key..." error message.

Car: '01 MN6
New codes:
B2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive A
B2892 Column Lock/Unlock Drive B

Old codes:
B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range
B2282 Battery #1 Circuit
B2284 Battery #2 Circuit
P0161 Heater Performance Bank
P1638 Generator F-terminal Circuit
C1214 Solenoid Valve Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open
Old 09-30-2010, 02:59 PM
  #2  
lucky131969
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Originally Posted by CD
Need help guys, and I've just spent the last 1/2 hour going through the stickies and searching.
Here's the deal. The Mrs took the car to a job this morning. No problems, at least nothing we didn't already know about. The car has been throwing a few codes for a while. I've checked grounds, battery cables and fuses and found no problems. I have a known bad TC module.
She drives over to the job, parks and when she goes to leave 1.5 hours later, car will not start. It cranks and sounds like it wants to start, feels like it will fire one or two cylinders, but it won't run.
I went over to see if I could figure out what's going on. I checked fuel pressure at the rail and pressure seems good. I checked all the fuses I could find for ECM/BCM and engine.
I pulled codes off the dash and the only new codes that show up are (this sucks) B2587 and B2892 (column lock). But I have the CLB installed so I don't know what this could possibly have to do with the car not starting. Will a failed column lock cause a no start? If so, since I have CLB, can I bypass the error?
Naturally I suspected VATS but I don't get a security light on the dash. Although I tried multiple starts and did get one "Pull Key..." error message.

Car: '01 MN6
New codes:
B2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive A
B2892 Column Lock/Unlock Drive B

Old codes:
B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range
B2282 Battery #1 Circuit
B2284 Battery #2 Circuit
P0161 Heater Performance Bank
P1638 Generator F-terminal Circuit
C1214 Solenoid Valve Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open
PM sent.
Old 10-01-2010, 06:52 AM
  #3  
VegasJen
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Alright guys, looks like it's narrowed down to the fuel system. I bled off all fuel pressure at the rail and keyed the car on, cranked it and checked the rail again--no fuel. I tried to jumper the FP relay in the fuse box next to the battery and still no joy. So I figure it's got to be somewhere in that circuit. With the way things have been going for me, it almost has to be the pump itself.
Give me some ideas/tips for checking other things that may also be at fault and let me know what kind of job I'm in for if the pump proves bad.
TIA.
Old 10-01-2010, 09:29 AM
  #4  
lucky131969
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It sounds like you already jumpered 30 to 87 (as labeled in the pic below), and the fuel pump did not run. Make sure you have the following when checking with a meter:

30 - 12 volts with key on, and start positions.
87 - 0 volts
85 - Ground
86 - 12 volts when key is turned to on

If this is all good, then you can check for 12 volts and ground at the fuel pump connector.



Old 10-02-2010, 09:01 PM
  #5  
VegasJen
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Thanks, Mike, for the help. The "boost-a-pump" was the problem. Sure is fun troubleshooting stuff someone else put together! Got it running now though so we're good.
Old 10-02-2010, 09:57 PM
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Bill Curlee
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Mike

WELL DONE!


CD

Glad your back on the road!
Old 10-02-2010, 09:59 PM
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lucky131969
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Originally Posted by CD
Thanks, Mike, for the help. The "boost-a-pump" was the problem. Sure is fun troubleshooting stuff someone else put together! Got it running now though so we're good.
Sorry I missed your call.....glad you got her up and running. Great job at figuring this out

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