So I think I may have spun a rod today...
#1
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So I think I may have spun a rod today...
Pretty sure my motor is toast. Won't know details until tomorrow or te next day.
But now what?
Crate motor? Rebuild? Cry a little bit?
Ultimate wish is decent forged rebuild with a mild supercharger. Reliable as possible.
But why kinda cost am I looking at there?
Cheaper just to buy a crate motor? Cheaper to just rebuild close to stock and run some new heads and cam etc.
Ahhhhhh so many options
Basically I guess I'm asking is what options do I have and what would be my overall costs estimates be.
5k up to 10k??? I dunnnno.
But now what?
Crate motor? Rebuild? Cry a little bit?
Ultimate wish is decent forged rebuild with a mild supercharger. Reliable as possible.
But why kinda cost am I looking at there?
Cheaper just to buy a crate motor? Cheaper to just rebuild close to stock and run some new heads and cam etc.
Ahhhhhh so many options
Basically I guess I'm asking is what options do I have and what would be my overall costs estimates be.
5k up to 10k??? I dunnnno.
#2
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
How did you do what you did and why do you think you spun a bearing???
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Is this a Corvette? What year? How may miles? You need to fill in your sig so we have some idea what you are talking about. As Bill asked, what was going on that you feel something is wrong?
#4
Le Mans Master
Well, if it's a spun bearing you have only damaged the crank and 1 rod. There's probally no damage to the block so you could have it rebuilt about any way you want. A stroker crank could fit for just a few dollars.
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Sorry, 1997 Corvette, A4, 97k miles with Borla Exhaust and an intake.
Car has been burning oil for a while now, but i have been able to keep a good eye on it and keep it filled, guess the consumption began to accelerate pretty quickly.
Well the car began to knock during a medium acceleration and the car died, tried to start to get it out of the road for safety reasons, high flow of traffic, etc. Knocked loud and low oil pressure came up and it sounded like hell when it tried to crank so i stopped and coasted.
Nothing came out of the block, but thats just my best guesstimate before teardown. It was too similar to a different car, which ended up a spun rod.
Car has been burning oil for a while now, but i have been able to keep a good eye on it and keep it filled, guess the consumption began to accelerate pretty quickly.
Well the car began to knock during a medium acceleration and the car died, tried to start to get it out of the road for safety reasons, high flow of traffic, etc. Knocked loud and low oil pressure came up and it sounded like hell when it tried to crank so i stopped and coasted.
Nothing came out of the block, but thats just my best guesstimate before teardown. It was too similar to a different car, which ended up a spun rod.
#7
Team Owner
The 02 is in the shop now...oil pump was slowly taking a s***, no noticeable drop in pressure...one day started whining and we took it in...cam bearings are toast, lifters toast, cam one lobe has a slight valley in it .....so it is getting all new bearings top to bottom, cam, springs, lifters, oil pump etc etc....should be better than ever soon...
had we drove it another 100 miles or so we may have been totally screwed....
only way to know how bad it is for you is to take it in and have it looked at...
had we drove it another 100 miles or so we may have been totally screwed....
only way to know how bad it is for you is to take it in and have it looked at...
#8
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If you don't mind me asking, are you just going with all stock spec parts? And about what costs is yours going to be?
Thanks!
Thanks!
The 02 is in the shop now...oil pump was slowly taking a s***, no noticeable drop in pressure...one day started whining and we took it in...cam bearings are toast, lifters toast, cam one lobe has a slight valley in it .....so it is getting all new bearings top to bottom, cam, springs, lifters, oil pump etc etc....should be better than ever soon...
had we drove it another 100 miles or so we may have been totally screwed....
only way to know how bad it is for you is to take it in and have it looked at...
had we drove it another 100 miles or so we may have been totally screwed....
only way to know how bad it is for you is to take it in and have it looked at...
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#12
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
You have options but you need to know whats wrong first. If you didn't hose the block you can rebuild and make a nice 383 out of it.
Cost would be $3400 for the shortblock and go up from there. You would want to replace a few more things than just the shortblock. Oil pump, timing set, new cam, lifters and then maybe do some head-work as well.
We could bring you around $6500 or less to build the 383 with the above and go through your heads and enhance them a bit. This would be a forged engine and deliver great reliability ( as long as its tuned properly).
Crate engines and s/c aren't my cup of tea so to speak. I don't like forcing air into an engine that was not built for it. Compression, bearing clearances and ring gaps are all different depending on application when we build an engine so the "one size fits all" deal isn't what we do .
But you need to know whats wrong first and if your block can be saved if the engine is indeed toast. If your block is toast the next cheapest option is finding a used block to build or buying a new block.
The 6.0 liter iron block is 750 new, about $50-150 if you go to a salvage yard and grab one from a truck. Your looking at $3850 for a forged 408 using a new block. It will add 75 lbs in weight.
Those are some of the options, there are of course more
Cost would be $3400 for the shortblock and go up from there. You would want to replace a few more things than just the shortblock. Oil pump, timing set, new cam, lifters and then maybe do some head-work as well.
We could bring you around $6500 or less to build the 383 with the above and go through your heads and enhance them a bit. This would be a forged engine and deliver great reliability ( as long as its tuned properly).
Crate engines and s/c aren't my cup of tea so to speak. I don't like forcing air into an engine that was not built for it. Compression, bearing clearances and ring gaps are all different depending on application when we build an engine so the "one size fits all" deal isn't what we do .
But you need to know whats wrong first and if your block can be saved if the engine is indeed toast. If your block is toast the next cheapest option is finding a used block to build or buying a new block.
The 6.0 liter iron block is 750 new, about $50-150 if you go to a salvage yard and grab one from a truck. Your looking at $3850 for a forged 408 using a new block. It will add 75 lbs in weight.
Those are some of the options, there are of course more
#14
First question: What's your budget?
First piece of advice: Whatever you calculate the cost of your build, add another thousand.
Personally, I'd pull the motor & tear it down. That will cost you little to nothing. Then, you'll know what you have left to deal with.
First piece of advice: Whatever you calculate the cost of your build, add another thousand.
Personally, I'd pull the motor & tear it down. That will cost you little to nothing. Then, you'll know what you have left to deal with.
#15
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I can make whatever work, but starting at 5. I really would feel silly putting in more than 7 or so right now to get it going and later adding stuff.
#16
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I pulled my stock engine and installed an LS3 with a real mild cam and made 450 RWHP. The stocker ran real good too but not like the LS3, them heads work better than ported LS6 heads and there are more LS3 take out motors from the new Camaros than you can shake a stick at. Just check around you'll find em
Good luck to ya
Good luck to ya
#17
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Apparently i was right. Motor is toast, i was recommended a replacement versus rebuild because of damage to motor is probably too extreme for a rebuild to be cheaper.
I feel like labor is too high here..... But then again i have no idea? Could i get a better deal for something near this or better?
I feel like labor is too high here..... But then again i have no idea? Could i get a better deal for something near this or better?
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St. Jude Donor '08
HOLY MOSES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Man,,,,,,,,,,,, I'm glad I can do my OWN repairs.
Those LABOR charges and MARK UP's are I N S A N E !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cant you find some C5 SAVVY person in your area that can help you change out your engine. It really isn't all that difficult.
BC
Those LABOR charges and MARK UP's are I N S A N E !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cant you find some C5 SAVVY person in your area that can help you change out your engine. It really isn't all that difficult.
BC
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
Few of those things are over priced but $2500 for R+R is fairly common.
Ex: Wires and plugs are $68 not $117 unless your getting AC Delco 41-110 plugs.
I would want to know what was done and what parts are used in the "re-maned" engine as well.
Its not forged and this is your opportunity to go forged and build a solid foundation, I would be giving that a serious thought if stepping up the performance in the future is in your plans. If all you want is what you had then a replacement Ls1 would suffice but if you want more than that I would be looking to doing it differently.
Ex: Wires and plugs are $68 not $117 unless your getting AC Delco 41-110 plugs.
I would want to know what was done and what parts are used in the "re-maned" engine as well.
Its not forged and this is your opportunity to go forged and build a solid foundation, I would be giving that a serious thought if stepping up the performance in the future is in your plans. If all you want is what you had then a replacement Ls1 would suffice but if you want more than that I would be looking to doing it differently.
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Well if the sunk costs are pretty standard, or within range. (R+R, miscellaneous parts needed for install regardless,etc.) are close to normal then my next questions is for $3000, which includes me sending my core back, am i getting a decent deal? I just feel retarded spending that kind of money for just a refreshed, newer version of what i already have. How much could a rebuild cost with forged, but basic, parts. Or how cheap could i find a crate longblock ls3 or something. Ahhhh. This is retarded.
Part of me wants to tow it home and use the money to go buy a cheap truck as a daily driver, and slowly repair the vette the way i want to. With the time and a little help from the interwebs, im sure i could get it fixed, whether it be swap it myself, or get it rebuilt and swap it myself. Ive swapped a few imports, but never stepped into the domestic range in that respect. What other crate companies are out there? What rebuilders are there?
Part of me wants to tow it home and use the money to go buy a cheap truck as a daily driver, and slowly repair the vette the way i want to. With the time and a little help from the interwebs, im sure i could get it fixed, whether it be swap it myself, or get it rebuilt and swap it myself. Ive swapped a few imports, but never stepped into the domestic range in that respect. What other crate companies are out there? What rebuilders are there?
Few of those things are over priced but $2500 for R+R is fairly common.
Ex: Wires and plugs are $68 not $117 unless your getting AC Delco 41-110 plugs.
I would want to know what was done and what parts are used in the "re-maned" engine as well.
Its not forged and this is your opportunity to go forged and build a solid foundation, I would be giving that a serious thought if stepping up the performance in the future is in your plans. If all you want is what you had then a replacement Ls1 would suffice but if you want more than that I would be looking to doing it differently.
Ex: Wires and plugs are $68 not $117 unless your getting AC Delco 41-110 plugs.
I would want to know what was done and what parts are used in the "re-maned" engine as well.
Its not forged and this is your opportunity to go forged and build a solid foundation, I would be giving that a serious thought if stepping up the performance in the future is in your plans. If all you want is what you had then a replacement Ls1 would suffice but if you want more than that I would be looking to doing it differently.