Noisy startup, and 6 months left on GMPP.
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Noisy startup, and 6 months left on GMPP.
2004, 55k miles. Commuter car, never raced and rarely even halfway into the throttle.
From listening to a lot of youtube videos, it sounds pretty much identical to lifter noise. It's been going on for at least 3 oil changes (No needle bearings found), and goes away when oil is around 130, coolant 190.
Clacka-clacka-clacka-CLACK-clacka...
I haven't been able to find it with a stethoscope. It's MUCH louder under the car than above it as well. Can't really hear it from inside.
The car runs just great otherwise.
I'd almost rather trade the car in and walk to work than deal with the local chevy dealer to get it fixed, unless we're talking a really expensive repair down the road.
My leading suggestion right now is to seafoam in the oil to break down deposits that might be causing the lifters to stick on startup.
From listening to a lot of youtube videos, it sounds pretty much identical to lifter noise. It's been going on for at least 3 oil changes (No needle bearings found), and goes away when oil is around 130, coolant 190.
Clacka-clacka-clacka-CLACK-clacka...
I haven't been able to find it with a stethoscope. It's MUCH louder under the car than above it as well. Can't really hear it from inside.
The car runs just great otherwise.
I'd almost rather trade the car in and walk to work than deal with the local chevy dealer to get it fixed, unless we're talking a really expensive repair down the road.
My leading suggestion right now is to seafoam in the oil to break down deposits that might be causing the lifters to stick on startup.
Last edited by Kale; 06-22-2010 at 09:45 PM.
#2
Tech Contributor
2004, 55k miles. Commuter car, never raced and rarely even halfway into the throttle.
From listening to a lot of youtube videos, it sounds pretty much identical to lifter noise. It's been going on for at least 3 oil changes (No needle bearings found), and goes away when oil is around 130, coolant 190.
Clacka-clacka-clacka-CLACK-clacka...
I haven't been able to find it with a stethoscope. It's MUCH louder under the car than above it as well. Can't really hear it from inside.
The car runs just great otherwise.
I'd almost rather trade the car in and walk to work than deal with the local chevy dealer to get it fixed, unless we're talking a really expensive repair down the road.
My leading suggestion right now is to seafoam in the oil to break down deposits that might be causing the lifters to stick on startup.
From listening to a lot of youtube videos, it sounds pretty much identical to lifter noise. It's been going on for at least 3 oil changes (No needle bearings found), and goes away when oil is around 130, coolant 190.
Clacka-clacka-clacka-CLACK-clacka...
I haven't been able to find it with a stethoscope. It's MUCH louder under the car than above it as well. Can't really hear it from inside.
The car runs just great otherwise.
I'd almost rather trade the car in and walk to work than deal with the local chevy dealer to get it fixed, unless we're talking a really expensive repair down the road.
My leading suggestion right now is to seafoam in the oil to break down deposits that might be causing the lifters to stick on startup.
#4
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I just pulled #7 because I remembered when i changed the plugs/wires at 30k that I never did do 7.
when 7 came out, the threads were soaked in oil. Huh. Weird.
The electrode itself looks perfectly normal. Threads are just soaked.
From what I've read, it's most likely a problem with the valve cover gasket, or even a problem with a bad spark plug wire.
On the other hand, it could be a problem with the piston ring. Given the clacking noise as well, it's a touch concerning.
I did probe with a light and mirror. I could not see any trail of oil from valve cover to spark plug hole. The oil was exclusively in the threads in the block as well.
An unknown: If this plug had been changed in the first 28k miles of the car's life. No other plugs had oil on them when removed.
when 7 came out, the threads were soaked in oil. Huh. Weird.
The electrode itself looks perfectly normal. Threads are just soaked.
From what I've read, it's most likely a problem with the valve cover gasket, or even a problem with a bad spark plug wire.
On the other hand, it could be a problem with the piston ring. Given the clacking noise as well, it's a touch concerning.
I did probe with a light and mirror. I could not see any trail of oil from valve cover to spark plug hole. The oil was exclusively in the threads in the block as well.
An unknown: If this plug had been changed in the first 28k miles of the car's life. No other plugs had oil on them when removed.
Last edited by Kale; 06-22-2010 at 11:28 PM.
#5
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I just pulled #7 because I remembered when i changed the plugs/wires at 30k that I never did do 7.
when 7 came out, the threads were soaked in oil. Huh. Weird.
The electrode itself looks perfectly normal. Threads are just soaked.
From what I've read, it's most likely a problem with the valve cover gasket, or even a problem with a bad spark plug wire.
On the other hand, it could be a problem with the piston ring. Given the clacking noise as well, it's a touch concerning.
when 7 came out, the threads were soaked in oil. Huh. Weird.
The electrode itself looks perfectly normal. Threads are just soaked.
From what I've read, it's most likely a problem with the valve cover gasket, or even a problem with a bad spark plug wire.
On the other hand, it could be a problem with the piston ring. Given the clacking noise as well, it's a touch concerning.
IF,,they "DON'T",,,,,,,,, dispute the findings and (the squeaky wheel gets the GREASE) complain until they FIX the issue.
You paid for the warranty,,,get them to fix it or deny the repair. If they deny the repair,,and something goes wrong down the line, you MAY have something to fall back on.
BC
#6
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Yeah, I sent a message to a dealer that's about 90 minutes away.
I wouldn't trust the nearby one to change my wiper blades.
Also FWIW, I fired it up warm and could only hear the noise under the car. I probed both heads with a stethoscope and couldn't hear it.
I went and checked the exhaust manifold bolts (ones I could get to) as well as the connections at the pipes just in case its an exhaust leak, but it doesn't sound like one.
I also probed all the accessories I could get to from the top and couldn't find it. Hmmm. It's almost like it is coming from AROUND the engine but not from within it.
Drive belts look clear... Good deflection.
I wouldn't trust the nearby one to change my wiper blades.
Also FWIW, I fired it up warm and could only hear the noise under the car. I probed both heads with a stethoscope and couldn't hear it.
I went and checked the exhaust manifold bolts (ones I could get to) as well as the connections at the pipes just in case its an exhaust leak, but it doesn't sound like one.
I also probed all the accessories I could get to from the top and couldn't find it. Hmmm. It's almost like it is coming from AROUND the engine but not from within it.
Drive belts look clear... Good deflection.
#7
Can't help you but I'll be curious to know what you find out because my car has the same noise. It's definitely not piston slap. I know what piston slap sounds like, and I have that too. Mine is much worse on hot starts than cold, but it invariably goes away after ~30 seconds.
#11
Fair enough
My best onomotapeia of lifter tick is more of a, "clickity clickity tick tick clickity clickity tick tick"
Whereas piston slap is a deeper, more hollow sounding, "clockah clockah clockah".
#14
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Here we go.
http://sky92x.com/midnightce/enginetick.mp3
It's very accurate (to my hear) compared to the live noise.
http://sky92x.com/midnightce/enginetick.mp3
It's very accurate (to my hear) compared to the live noise.
#15
Here we go.
http://sky92x.com/midnightce/enginetick.mp3
It's very accurate (to my hear) compared to the live noise.
http://sky92x.com/midnightce/enginetick.mp3
It's very accurate (to my hear) compared to the live noise.
#17
I'm not the best mechanic in the world, but I've learned that if you have a warranty don't wait for something to completely break. Take it to a dealer and let them look. If they don't find anything, take it back in a few days or weeks and do it again. You will at least have a nice paper trail if something finally does break down.
#20
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Well, next week if i can get the time off I'm taking it in. Apparently GMPP is extraordinarily slow to confirm repairs.
Should I not drive the car in the mean time?
Should I not drive the car in the mean time?