rboineau

I have a low-mile, garage-kept 2003. I'd like to remove the spark plugs just to make sure they don't seize in the heads over time (add some anti-seize compound, tighten properly). I can't budge any of the boots. It's not really an access or clearance problem, the boots just won't loosen. I have several boot-puller pliers, including the adjustable-angle pliers, but nothing works. Main problem is those damn metal tubes over the boots, preventing me from getting down and turning the boots to break the "stiction". The pliers can only clamp on the 'head' of the boot and it just twists, not breaking the stiction. I don't want to destroy or mangle the metal tubes, as I'm not sure there is even a source for new ones. I'm thinking of trying to make a little tool that can get down between the head and the tube/boot that will allow me to pry upwards to get the boot loose from the plug, but don't know if there is room for such a tool to work. Would like to hear from anyone who has overcome this problem without destroying the tubes. I don't need new wires but would buy a set if I have to ruin the existing set to get them off, but as I said I don't want to muck up the tubes and they seem to be the real problem here. Thanks.

lucky131969

Unless you plan on changing the plugs and wires.....leave it alone. If you insist on pulling all the plugs, then plan to replace the wires and plugs.

phils C5 vette

I changed spark plugs today, and I think its a little easier with headers on.

I removed toconnection from the coil first, then it was a little easier to twist the spark plug boot.

When you ruin your boot, I have 8 extras

djengr

they say you are supposed to twist them and then pull. I too got a tool, modified it, twisted pulled , twisted pulled, and I thought I got them off with no problem, put everything back, new plugs anti seize, greased the boots and had a miss.

Then I got a new set of wires.

get some of the grease they sell at the auto parts store when you put them back. It helps the next time

good luck.

schpenxel

These aren't late 60's muscle cars. No need to change the plugs every 1000 miles to keep it running strong.. Leave them alone.

jake2000

A tool I used was a needle-nose vise grip. Get it in between the boot and grab the metal insulators and pull. You'll still tear up a couple wires but they will come off.

socalman

Most buy wires with the plugs- 1 or 2 will get yanked apart.

CamminC5

I use hose pliers. They look like needle nose pliers with a bend to grab a hose with out crushing it. Grab the boot NOT the wire and twist-pull.

vettenuts

I got mine off but it took a lot of time. It was one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever done on this car and I have done it all. I now run the LS7 wires with the 90 degree boots with my headers. Much easier to work with. Since the AIR pipes are gone as well, I can get the plugs out in under five minutes.

bumble-z

Stock GM part, LS7 wires? Are they same length as the LS/6 wires? You don't use the metal (insulators,w/inner spring) pieces w/ this set up, do you? Gee, I guess that's enough questions!

vettenuts

Exactly. No metal boot and the length is fine. I ran MSD before and the GM parts just plain fit better. They also provide a good "click" when they go on so you know you have them on correctly. After my hand injury I found I always messed up the MSD's and couldn't get them on correctly.

David426

I can tell you from experience that you will more than likely break or mangle a plug wire or more.. I broke 3 on my Ls6 and 4 on my Ls1.. The wires get really brittle over time, from the extreme heat and literally weld themself in place, and a few are a down right bitch to get off, even with a plug wire puller tool, which you will need.. A few of the wire boots did come of really easily. Just remember when you break a wire you will have to buy a whole set of wires or go to the dealership and buy 1 individual wire for $33.00 (rip off).. Just a heads up before you start.. Gene Cully has the RED GM Hot Wires for $56.00 for a set of 8.. Superb performance wire at a steal of a deal price http://www.gmpartshouse.com/chevy/chevy-parts.html

Gooser

My method is...wiggle wiggle pull...cuss cuss...wiggle pull wiggle...cuss...etc...
They are a bitch and I use alot of boot grease on the install to make it easier next time. Good info on the LS7 wires!

ShootCraps

I found a pair of long-handle needle nose pliers in the $4 bin at Adnvance Auto Parts. Work perfectly for all the plug wires. Haven't broken one yet. Attach them on the boot and pull on the pliers.

Double G

Google Spark plug wire boot removal tool and you will find what you need. You must pull on the spark plug end of the boot or you will damage the wire.

03WhiteConv

Mostly even with the plug wire pullers, you just bleed...

Especially if they have not been off the car recently. Plug wire pullers are the way to go. Get a decent set, the cheapos twist and bend and come apart.

PetersC5

I had to change the plugs in my new '00 vert that had 25k on it after i got it in March, the plugs had never been pulled and I to, wanted to insure they were removable, and never seize the threads etc.

With the metal sleeves on, I found it was really easy to pull the sleeve and the boot as one.......

Use a flat blade screwdriver of appropriate width, I inserted it between the sleeve and the manifold and then twisted the screwdriver to grab the side of the metal sleeve where it tapers. A quick twist of the screwdriver to grab the sleeve to pry it back while holding the sleeve with the other hand and done, seriously less than a minute per plug. I would suggest to file the edge of the screwdriver to a square edge so it can grab the metal sleeve.......
Use dielectric grease on reinstall....

Nick1

Well there certainly seems to be a lot of agreement on this one!
Most definitely you need to wear gloves, grab you favorite pliers (channel locks, vice grips, etc.) and dive in like a crazed dentist on wisdom teeth! It's the only practical way. So, pick out a nice set of color matched after market wires, and have anti-seeze with dielectric lub ready. Overall not a tough job, I had a Camaro F-body previously; one of the worse pia jobs ever. Good luck!

Camjamsdad

Yeah I remember the blood, painful job. Wasted 4 out of 8 wires. After you see the plugs you'll be back for a "Where's the puck thread."

099blancoss

If you do have issue and ruin a wire or two we have you covered with the best price anywhere in the world for MSD and NGK.

They make spark plug wire removal pliers but the problem is in the construction of the wire. In most cases when you latch onto the plug wire boot your also squeezing the terminal that is gripping the spark plug as well so the harder you squeeze the more it grips.
That in addition to most wires being single crimp terminals really hoses the wire.

The MSD does not do that. It has a double crimp terminal
which allows for gripping the terminal and not the part that sits on the spark plug head.
Swapping plugs is easier when the wires come off the way they should. This is another advantage to the MSD wire.

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