Stranded! Z06 won't start! Help!
#21
Tech Contributor
#22
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The car starts, only intermittently. It's extremely odd to get in it start without a hitch, come back, nothing. Wait 4 hours, come back, starts again.
And that schematic looks like a foreign language to me. I wouldn't know where to start.
And that schematic looks like a foreign language to me. I wouldn't know where to start.
#23
Tech Contributor
1) Work with a forum member to use the schematics and a meter.
2) Just change parts until you fix the issue (or have nothing left to replace).
3) Take the car to a trusted shop for repairs.
#24
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
What kind of meter do I need?
In the mean time, I notice reading posts that people who rebuilt the ignition switch encountered codes, seeing as I don't have any codes from the DIC would that be process of elimination ruling out the ignition in the dash?
I also considered replacing the starter solenoid if my parts stores carry it in town.
#25
Drifting
Replacing the starter solenoid would not be a bad idea. It could certainly cause intermittent starting issues.
The 'meter' that lucky is mentioning is a multimeter. A good quality unit is preferred (Fluke is widely considered the 'best' brand), but you should be able to get by with a mid-range unit from another manufacturer.
Not having codes does not in any fashion tell you that the ignition switch is good. The DIC displaying codes is really nice when it decides to tell you what the problem is, but it isn't the end of troubleshooting for ANY problem in my opinion.
The 'meter' that lucky is mentioning is a multimeter. A good quality unit is preferred (Fluke is widely considered the 'best' brand), but you should be able to get by with a mid-range unit from another manufacturer.
Not having codes does not in any fashion tell you that the ignition switch is good. The DIC displaying codes is really nice when it decides to tell you what the problem is, but it isn't the end of troubleshooting for ANY problem in my opinion.
#26
Tech Contributor
What kind of meter do I need?
In the mean time, I notice reading posts that people who rebuilt the ignition switch encountered codes, seeing as I don't have any codes from the DIC would that be process of elimination ruling out the ignition in the dash?
I also considered replacing the starter solenoid if my parts stores carry it in town.
In the mean time, I notice reading posts that people who rebuilt the ignition switch encountered codes, seeing as I don't have any codes from the DIC would that be process of elimination ruling out the ignition in the dash?
I also considered replacing the starter solenoid if my parts stores carry it in town.
Reading a schematic is no different than reading a roadmap, once you know what the icons mean, then you just have to check for voltage or ground.
#27
Start with the basics.
Have you pulled off the battery terminals and inspected for corrosion? I had similar symptoms and while the gauges indicated there were no problems, the positive terminal had A LOT of corrosion on it.
Have you pulled off the battery terminals and inspected for corrosion? I had similar symptoms and while the gauges indicated there were no problems, the positive terminal had A LOT of corrosion on it.
#28
Drifting
My guess would be the starter solenoid,or the theft deterrent relay under the passenger side footwell.Do research on here to find out how to test the relay,I know Bill Curlee helped with this a while back,after checking the basics,mine ended up being the starter solenoid,a common problem on the C5s,just my 4 cents!Good luck!
#29
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Guys, I really appreciate the awesome help.
I work 1-10pm tonight central time, I'm going to try and locate a solenoid and a multimeter while at lunch. I'm currently driving the car as it did start this morning. I'll keep this thread posted with pics and info as it comes.
Thanks.
I work 1-10pm tonight central time, I'm going to try and locate a solenoid and a multimeter while at lunch. I'm currently driving the car as it did start this morning. I'll keep this thread posted with pics and info as it comes.
Thanks.
#30
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Update:
Parts stores say I can only order the complete starter, not just the solenoid. I picked up a multimeter. Also, because I don't have a working fob, I lock the car from the door panel. Unlock with the key in the door.
Today I've just been leaving the car unlocked and it hasn't hiccuped yet. Could not having a fob, using the key only have some type of conflict with the security system in these cars?
Also, I check the battery terminals for corrosion, they look clean. However, what is this copper adapater the negative is connected to? The terminal is not connected directly to the battery. See pic.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/...d021f4a2_b.jpg
Parts stores say I can only order the complete starter, not just the solenoid. I picked up a multimeter. Also, because I don't have a working fob, I lock the car from the door panel. Unlock with the key in the door.
Today I've just been leaving the car unlocked and it hasn't hiccuped yet. Could not having a fob, using the key only have some type of conflict with the security system in these cars?
Also, I check the battery terminals for corrosion, they look clean. However, what is this copper adapater the negative is connected to? The terminal is not connected directly to the battery. See pic.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/...d021f4a2_b.jpg
#31
Tech Contributor
Update:
Parts stores say I can only order the complete starter, not just the solenoid. I picked up a multimeter. Also, because I don't have a working fob, I lock the car from the door panel. Unlock with the key in the door.
Today I've just been leaving the car unlocked and it hasn't hiccuped yet. Could not having a fob, using the key only have some type of conflict with the security system in these cars?
Also, I check the battery terminals for corrosion, they look clean. However, what is this copper adapater the negative is connected to? The terminal is not connected directly to the battery. See pic.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/...d021f4a2_b.jpg
Parts stores say I can only order the complete starter, not just the solenoid. I picked up a multimeter. Also, because I don't have a working fob, I lock the car from the door panel. Unlock with the key in the door.
Today I've just been leaving the car unlocked and it hasn't hiccuped yet. Could not having a fob, using the key only have some type of conflict with the security system in these cars?
Also, I check the battery terminals for corrosion, they look clean. However, what is this copper adapater the negative is connected to? The terminal is not connected directly to the battery. See pic.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/...d021f4a2_b.jpg
That looks like a battery shutoff switch. Just to get that out of the equation, I would remove that, and bolt the negative cable to the battery directly.
#32
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Any info on the correlation between the fob and just using the key? Fobs are being ordered Monday as well as a new set of keys.
#33
Tech Contributor
I will remove that tonight. And technically you are right, I bough this Z06 from my brother. However, this is my 3rd C5 I've owned over the course of the last few years.
Any info on the correlation between the fob and just using the key? Fobs are being ordered Monday as well as a new set of keys.
Any info on the correlation between the fob and just using the key? Fobs are being ordered Monday as well as a new set of keys.
#34
Racer
It sounds to me like your starter is toast. Mine did the same thing about 4 months ago. Sometimes it would start, sometimes it wouldnt. Try and push start it, and if that works you just have to replace the starter... or if you can jack it up and it it with a hammer that will sometimes work for a little while, but its not in a spot thats very easy to get to.
#35
Drifting
It sounds to me like your starter is toast. Mine did the same thing about 4 months ago. Sometimes it would start, sometimes it wouldnt. Try and push start it, and if that works you just have to replace the starter... or if you can jack it up and it it with a hammer that will sometimes work for a little while, but its not in a spot thats very easy to get to.
#36
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
If you can find me a place to order a solenoid, I'd be thanful. But I might as well just go with a new starter to be on the safe side anyway.
#38
Drifting
.Try a alternator,starter rebuild shop,thats where I had my solenoid rebuilt and havent had issues since!
#39
Drifting
wholeheartedly. Support your local automotive electrical shop, bring the starter to them for troubleshooting. Once had a starter rebuilt locally (and I don't mean some Chinese rebuild crap) for $45, and it worked flawlessly till I sold the vehicle. If it really is just the solenoid, then it should be quite cheap and you can still feel good about not supporting China.
#40
there is a good chance you need a new starter (or rebuilding yours). when solenoid goes out, it will sieze intermittently.