Cams that don't need Re-tunes
05-24-2010, 08:23 PM
#21
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St. Jude Donor '08
Okay, i'll get the tune asap after the swap.
SDPC is suggesting this guy for a cam:
221/226 .565/.560 114
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...-center/sd0067
Anyone have experience with this or something similar
SDPC is suggesting this guy for a cam:
221/226 .565/.560 114
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...-center/sd0067
Anyone have experience with this or something similar
05-24-2010, 09:27 PM
#22
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Good price for the WRONG cam for 243's. 
You could probably stay in the mid teens without a tune but the benefits would not be that great. Through an LS6 cam in there with the 1.8 YT's and 243's. Get some decent springs while your at it.
You could always run a 3/4 race cam....
You could probably stay in the mid teens without a tune but the benefits would not be that great. Through an LS6 cam in there with the 1.8 YT's and 243's. Get some decent springs while your at it.
You could always run a 3/4 race cam....
05-25-2010, 03:06 PM
#23
Drifting
Budget for the tune just in case, and then see if you need it.
Don't skimp to much on the size or you will regret it.
05-25-2010, 03:51 PM
#24
Race Director
Okay, i'll get the tune asap after the swap.
SDPC is suggesting this guy for a cam:
221/226 .565/.560 114
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...-center/sd0067
Anyone have experience with this or something similar
SDPC is suggesting this guy for a cam:
221/226 .565/.560 114
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...-center/sd0067
Anyone have experience with this or something similar
05-25-2010, 05:20 PM
#25
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Hi George...this is Jeff, part of JW and Tim Star's clan....I have been investigating this whole process for amost 7 months now and will be doing my cam swap next spring. I am buying all the parts this year and then having the job done by a good friend off the forum here that lives close by.
All I can say is really REALLY think about what you want now and where you want to be even years from now, before you do this. If you plan on or are thinking about supercharging later on, get yourself a blower cam. This is a perfect "stealth" cam that should get you 60-80 rwhp and get your car prepped for when you want to go charged. Also by power band, same thing, really what do you want to do with the car and where do you want the power to come on? Once you get all your factors thought out, then start pricing out the parts you will need (you are going to need more then just a cam and a tune) and then buy them or tell your installer what parts you want. Make sure you parts are all compatible with each other and buy the best you can afford.
Here is my cam list:
I have decided not to go with new larger injectors as I have been told the duty cycle will still be within limits for the cam I have chosen.
I also have decided on not needing a new or ported oil pump.
1) AFR 6016 Cam or Chuck Cow Cam
2) LS2 Timing Chain (bought)
3) PAC Single Beehive Valve Springs ($249)
4) Texas Speed 7.400 Hardened Pushrods ($100)
5) Under Drive Pulley ($150)(bought)
6) Front Gasket Kit & Bolt ($40)(bought)
7) GM Oil Pump Pickup O-Ring ($?)
8) GM UD Pulley Bolt ($?) still need?
I have already been talking with my tuner Chuck Cow. He is going to be working with me and we are going to do a computer mail order to get me close, then once he is in my area he is going to tweak it. Chuck originally did my car and Iam so happy with it, I wouldn't dream or trust anybody else with it.
All I can say is really REALLY think about what you want now and where you want to be even years from now, before you do this. If you plan on or are thinking about supercharging later on, get yourself a blower cam. This is a perfect "stealth" cam that should get you 60-80 rwhp and get your car prepped for when you want to go charged. Also by power band, same thing, really what do you want to do with the car and where do you want the power to come on? Once you get all your factors thought out, then start pricing out the parts you will need (you are going to need more then just a cam and a tune) and then buy them or tell your installer what parts you want. Make sure you parts are all compatible with each other and buy the best you can afford.
Here is my cam list:
I have decided not to go with new larger injectors as I have been told the duty cycle will still be within limits for the cam I have chosen.
I also have decided on not needing a new or ported oil pump.
1) AFR 6016 Cam or Chuck Cow Cam
2) LS2 Timing Chain (bought)
3) PAC Single Beehive Valve Springs ($249)
4) Texas Speed 7.400 Hardened Pushrods ($100)
5) Under Drive Pulley ($150)(bought)
6) Front Gasket Kit & Bolt ($40)(bought)
7) GM Oil Pump Pickup O-Ring ($?)
8) GM UD Pulley Bolt ($?) still need?
I have already been talking with my tuner Chuck Cow. He is going to be working with me and we are going to do a computer mail order to get me close, then once he is in my area he is going to tweak it. Chuck originally did my car and Iam so happy with it, I wouldn't dream or trust anybody else with it.
Last edited by XtremeVette; 05-25-2010 at 05:26 PM.
05-25-2010, 11:03 PM
#26
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Thanks soooo MUCH!
Hi George...this is Jeff, part of JW and Tim Star's clan....I have been investigating this whole process for amost 7 months now and will be doing my cam swap next spring. I am buying all the parts this year and then having the job done by a good friend off the forum here that lives close by.
All I can say is really REALLY think about what you want now and where you want to be even years from now, before you do this. If you plan on or are thinking about supercharging later on, get yourself a blower cam. This is a perfect "stealth" cam that should get you 60-80 rwhp and get your car prepped for when you want to go charged. Also by power band, same thing, really what do you want to do with the car and where do you want the power to come on? Once you get all your factors thought out, then start pricing out the parts you will need (you are going to need more then just a cam and a tune) and then buy them or tell your installer what parts you want. Make sure you parts are all compatible with each other and buy the best you can afford.
Here is my cam list:
I have decided not to go with new larger injectors as I have been told the duty cycle will still be within limits for the cam I have chosen.
I also have decided on not needing a new or ported oil pump.
1) AFR 6016 Cam or Chuck Cow Cam
2) LS2 Timing Chain (bought)
3) PAC Single Beehive Valve Springs ($249)
4) Texas Speed 7.400 Hardened Pushrods ($100)
5) Under Drive Pulley ($150)(bought)
6) Front Gasket Kit & Bolt ($40)(bought)
7) GM Oil Pump Pickup O-Ring ($?)
8) GM UD Pulley Bolt ($?) still need?
I have already been talking with my tuner Chuck Cow. He is going to be working with me and we are going to do a computer mail order to get me close, then once he is in my area he is going to tweak it. Chuck originally did my car and Iam so happy with it, I wouldn't dream or trust anybody else with it.
All I can say is really REALLY think about what you want now and where you want to be even years from now, before you do this. If you plan on or are thinking about supercharging later on, get yourself a blower cam. This is a perfect "stealth" cam that should get you 60-80 rwhp and get your car prepped for when you want to go charged. Also by power band, same thing, really what do you want to do with the car and where do you want the power to come on? Once you get all your factors thought out, then start pricing out the parts you will need (you are going to need more then just a cam and a tune) and then buy them or tell your installer what parts you want. Make sure you parts are all compatible with each other and buy the best you can afford.
Here is my cam list:
I have decided not to go with new larger injectors as I have been told the duty cycle will still be within limits for the cam I have chosen.
I also have decided on not needing a new or ported oil pump.
1) AFR 6016 Cam or Chuck Cow Cam
2) LS2 Timing Chain (bought)
3) PAC Single Beehive Valve Springs ($249)
4) Texas Speed 7.400 Hardened Pushrods ($100)
5) Under Drive Pulley ($150)(bought)
6) Front Gasket Kit & Bolt ($40)(bought)
7) GM Oil Pump Pickup O-Ring ($?)
8) GM UD Pulley Bolt ($?) still need?
I have already been talking with my tuner Chuck Cow. He is going to be working with me and we are going to do a computer mail order to get me close, then once he is in my area he is going to tweak it. Chuck originally did my car and Iam so happy with it, I wouldn't dream or trust anybody else with it.
Thanks..... The latest "CoW CAM" for the C5 will be finished and dynoed this week with stock heads and intake manifold.
After that, it gets our heads and fast intake with 90mm TB....
Keep watch!
Chuck CoW
05-26-2010, 01:08 AM
#27
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St. Jude Donor '08
I didn't see what mods you've already done, so it's hard to recommend a cam. I assume you have LTs and full exhaust and CAI, so a bigger cam is the next logical step. Assuming the above stuff is true, than the cam you've been recommended is a nice little cam. For better gains, with no loss in drivability, I'd suggest the "Tony Mamo" cam....It's a 224/228@114, with about .575 lift. Very easy to tune, and lots of power potential. The next step up is the G5X1, which is 228/232, and a great performance cam, but it may not pass CA emissions without an expert tune, if that's an issue.
This car will NOT be supercharged, probably never tracked (except for the rare random fun event) and will be used almost exclusively for daily driving.
05-26-2010, 09:19 AM
#28
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Why bother buying heads and cams and the other stuff you mentioned with no tune?
I guess it would run horrible or grenade possibly. Like buying a great gun and no bullets!The money spent on any type of tune is cheaper than a destroyed engine. You could always buy HPTuners and put the money you were going to spend on a dyno tune into something concrete that you will have forever.
