tie rod end not coming undone ... pic
05-12-2010, 05:53 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
tie rod end not coming undone ... pic
so I am in the middle (or beginning of i suppose) of replacing my rear bearing hub .. read that I shouldn't use the tie rod end separator tool so I undid the nut a bit, both the adjustable on the tie rod end and the top connected to the spindle (knuckle?) and it won't budge.
guess i just wondered if I'm doing this correctly ...
guess i just wondered if I'm doing this correctly ...
05-12-2010, 06:52 PM
#2
Drifting
Uh...retighten the adjuster locknut now, unless you want to get an alignment.
Just tap on the knuckle with a hammer.
Just tap on the knuckle with a hammer.
Last edited by FRCTony; 05-12-2010 at 06:55 PM.
05-30-2010, 11:19 AM
#3
Advanced
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Morale of the story DO NOT USE A HAMMER!
05-30-2010, 01:10 PM
#4
Drifting
Member Since: Jul 2002
Location: Morgan Hill Ca.
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
YUP justr some good firm taps around the outside of the mounting knuckle and it should just fall right out. DO NOT pound on the nut or the threaded shaft.
Seen a lot of guys destroy the bolt and nut just to have someone tap on the casting and have it fall out.
Seen a lot of guys destroy the bolt and nut just to have someone tap on the casting and have it fall out.
05-30-2010, 02:36 PM
#5
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
Posts: 4,549
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes
on
24 Posts
Use the proper Kent Moore Tool and you can separate easily and not destroy the rubber boot. If you try to use one of the "Pickle Fork" separator tools available, you will damage the robber boot and have to replace. Most of the time a good sharp rap in the spindle with a BFH will get it to separate. If that fails, you can use a propane or aceteline torch to heat the spindle (not red hot) to break the corrosion bond then use the BFH. Be sure to protect the rubber so you don't burn it.
05-30-2010, 03:01 PM
#6
Tech Contributor
Use the proper Kent Moore Tool and you can separate easily and not destroy the rubber boot. If you try to use one of the "Pickle Fork" separator tools available, you will damage the robber boot and have to replace. Most of the time a good sharp rap in the spindle with a BFH will get it to separate. If that fails, you can use a propane or aceteline torch to heat the spindle (not red hot) to break the corrosion bond then use the BFH. Be sure to protect the rubber so you don't burn it.
05-30-2010, 05:17 PM
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
Received 845 Likes
on
721 Posts
Spin the nut down so it's about even with the end of the stud, put a piece of hardwood (or brass or copper etc) over it and give it a whack with a hammer.
Or
Hold a big hammer on the flat on one side of the arm and then give a hit on the other side with another smaller hammer.
The easiest way to put it back in is to just put it in place and use a jack under it with enough pressure to keep it from turning while you tighten the nut. Don't jack too high though or you could bend the arm. The same idea can be applied to the lower a-arm stud by using a strap over the upright to the jack base to hold it in place.
Peter
Or
Hold a big hammer on the flat on one side of the arm and then give a hit on the other side with another smaller hammer.
The easiest way to put it back in is to just put it in place and use a jack under it with enough pressure to keep it from turning while you tighten the nut. Don't jack too high though or you could bend the arm. The same idea can be applied to the lower a-arm stud by using a strap over the upright to the jack base to hold it in place.
Peter
Last edited by lionelhutz; 05-30-2010 at 05:20 PM.
05-30-2010, 11:51 PM
#9
Drifting
I hammered mine out then when i went to reinstall the nut i found out the threads were compressed at the top so the nut would not go back in. I ended up cutting a couple of threads off the top in order for the nut to be reintalled but realized by cutting the threads that the allen wrench slot could not be locked thus making it impossible to tighten the threads.
Morale of the story DO NOT USE A HAMMER!
Morale of the story DO NOT USE A HAMMER!
05-31-2010, 05:42 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
Wow some interesting suggestions. Some folks have it right. Just a good solid crack with a hammer on the side of the knuckle is all you need. You are trying to deform the taper just slightly so it will release. This will not damage anything.
06-01-2010, 01:37 AM
#11
Advanced
Member Since: May 2009
Location: Houston texas
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is a fine line between using a hammer as a tool than being a hammer mechanic. What I do on anything I have to "beat" on, I make sure i protect the threads ( if there is threads) and use the correct hammer for the job.... I.e. A rawhide hammer not a hammer to build a fence....
I'm not knocking anyone because **** happens, and that's where you learn to do thingS diffrent and find out what works the best for you...
I'm not knocking anyone because **** happens, and that's where you learn to do thingS diffrent and find out what works the best for you...
06-01-2010, 01:02 PM
#12
Spin the nut down so it's about even with the end of the stud, put a piece of hardwood (or brass or copper etc) over it and give it a whack with a hammer.
Or
Hold a big hammer on the flat on one side of the arm and then give a hit on the other side with another smaller hammer.
The easiest way to put it back in is to just put it in place and use a jack under it with enough pressure to keep it from turning while you tighten the nut. Don't jack too high though or you could bend the arm. The same idea can be applied to the lower a-arm stud by using a strap over the upright to the jack base to hold it in place.
Peter
Or
Hold a big hammer on the flat on one side of the arm and then give a hit on the other side with another smaller hammer.
The easiest way to put it back in is to just put it in place and use a jack under it with enough pressure to keep it from turning while you tighten the nut. Don't jack too high though or you could bend the arm. The same idea can be applied to the lower a-arm stud by using a strap over the upright to the jack base to hold it in place.
Peter
06-01-2010, 02:49 PM
#14
Pro
Member Since: Dec 2003
Location: chandler az
Posts: 654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used two c-clamps and a 4 inch strip of quarter inch stock. Then I tightend down the clamps evenly and out it came. No drama or skinned knuckles. The tough part was getting both camps and metal stock on. Push down on the top with the nut on and grab the lower part of the spindle mount.
