20vette0107fatboy

My mods now are ARH, cold air intake, ported throttle body. My 04 is a 6 speed. Now instead of me spending money for the install, I think I can do it myself. One main ques is, after the install, can I drive it about 80 miles to the tuner to get it tuned and not hurt anything. Anyone do a Cam install thereself. I was nervous when I did my American racing headers but found out that it was not that bad. Yes I'm going to put new springs and underdrive pulley on. Also new high flow oil pump. It would be nice if someone lived kind of close to me that has done this before so when I get to the heart of it (the Cam and timing chain) they can come over for a few hours and give me a hand. I don't want to screw it up. Any volunteers. It wont be this year but it will be next spring for sure. What do you all think. Think I can do this. I'm planning on using the ls1howto.

JtothaP

I wouldnt drive it to the tuner after the job. I would probably trailer it or have it towed. Maybe some of the experienced gentleman will chime in.

vettenuts

ls1howto is OK, careful on removal and installation of the pulley as it is wrong. The job isn't bad as long as you allow ample time. Figure 2 weeks so you are not pressured (that's what I do). The key is to have all the tools you need ready and available. Valve spring tool, method to hold up lifter, etc. I have done it twice on my car all alone and it went well, even removal/installation of the radiator. I don't find the steering rack to be a big deal either. Its a fun job and when you turn the key and hear it roar to life it really makes you feel good. I say go for it, and if you run into a problem there are plenty of guys here who can help (verbally). I took a zillion photo's so there should be plenty of help if you get into trouble.

chevylad

I've heard of guys driving it down for a tune, but I wouldn't try it. I would opt for at least a mail order tune or haul it. I'm still finishing up on mines, but plan on getting a mail order tune and downloading it myself. I have HP Tuners, but no experience tuning yet.

mstrnad

, I've done tons of research before starting my project. Having the right tools makes the job a lot easier. Label, and keep your parts organized. I ended up taking a lot of pictures for reference. You'll always have someone here on the forum that has tons of experience and will always point you in the right direction.

There is also a service manual DVD floating around here, and I use that as reference too. Good luck...

Blow Torch

Not trying to be a downer here, but you need to have some very strong mechanical skills to take a cam swap on by yourself. It's NOT the same as a header swap. The worst thing that can happen there is a exhaust leak. With a cam swap, you could possibly ruin your engine if you're not careful
The tough (for me, apparently not for everyone) parts will be r & r the steering rack, making sure the lifters are up and out of the way, and for gosh sakes get that oil pick up o-ring on correctly (no oil pressure if you don't.
If you feel comfortable, go for it, but make sure you read everything you can before you start.

PewtVette

Agreed. I just finished my heads/cam on my C5. I did the same on my Z28 years ago so I wasn't nervous about the job but even so, there are a lot of details you have to get right. Once again, not technically difficult but you have to very comfortable with tools. Lastly- read, read, read. Good luck if you decide to take the plunge.

CamminC5

Get the service manuals. If you have mechanical ability and understand what the parts do that your working on you'll be fine. Remember: If a man built it, a man can rebuild it.

dougbfresh

The real problem is how much of the car you have to disassemble to get the cam out and back in. I agree, GET THE SERVICE MANUAL on paper or download it and study the section on cam replacement.

81c3

I would say this is accurate. If you have never done something like this before, it could seem a bit overwhelming. Its not so much that the job is difficult, its more that it helps to have a good "feel" for what youre doing. I would find someone who you know that has a decent mechanical background to maybe oversee what youre doing and be there to help if you need a hand. Good tools are a pre requisite. Good instructions are also a necessity.

Bill Curlee

I have conquered this task on a couple of C5s and my 02 ZO6. It is not that difficult BUT,,,you need to be able to FOLLOW the service manual, have the correct tools and correct required chemicals, all the torque values and all the parts/gaskets and ask for help when your not sure about something.

Every C5 is a slight bit different so, in the case of removing the steering rack, some racks come out easy and some require loosening the K member bolts a slight bit. I have found that you DO NOT need to completely remove the rack. I just slide the rack out part way and then push the passengers side towards the radiator. Mine did not need anything special to remove the rack.

Heres are a list of things to avoid or to do or to insure that you get the job done correctly:

-INSURE you red locktite the cam gear bolts and properly torque in place!

_ Check Check and DOUBLE Check that you are DOT to DOT on the cam/crank sprockets!!! I used a camera to get a FACE on straight look and I’m glad that I did. It was one tooth off on the first try. Glad I relooked and used the camera for a straight in look!

- Up grade to a NEW OEM dampener OR better yet, install a power bond dampener. RECOMMEND that you install an ARP damper bolt. NOTE! Your OEM bolt is a ONE TIME USE BOLT! DO NOT reuse it to secure the damper in place. Use it for the initial install and then remove it to install the NEW bolt. Follow the OEM install torque for a NEW OEM bolt to the letter and or the ARP 240 ft/lbs torque for an ARP bolt!!

- MAKE SURE that you install the rocker arm pedestal under the rocker arms! TOO MANY people have for some stupid reason NOT installed it and bent all their valves upon first engine turn over!! Cant see how some one would forget to install it but,,,they do.

- Do not forget to re-connect the small nylon vacuum line behind the intake manifold. If I were you, I would purchase a nylon vacuum line repair kit and lengthen that line to give you a little more slack and a LOT less issues!

- Your going to need a TUNE so,,,I would do ALL the stuff that you can MOD wise now that will help you HP/TQ wise down the road. I.E.

- Ported Throttle Body
- Port match and clean up your LS6 style intake manifold ports and runners.

- New LS2 timing Chain and a NEW timing chain cover seal

- Melling Oil Pump. EXCELLENT Pump!

- Before you get a tune, see what your Fuel Injector % Duty Cycle is and if its close to 80% at full throttle under full power, up-grade to some SVO 30 injectors.

- Make sure you check your Push Rod length requirements with a push rod checker and install some new hardened push rods.

- If your budget can stand it, purchase EFI Live or HP Tuners and you can have someone help you do the tuning or if nothing else, install a tune that close to your MOD characteristics and that will get you safely to a tuner or if your lucky, you can find someone who will help you tune it.

That’s all I can think of for now. I’m sure some one will come up with more hints, tips, ideas, cautions & warnings.

Yea,, its a good idea to fine someone in your area that has done this job and can lend a hand. Once you get one Cam install under your belt, you will say “Hey,,,that wasn’t that difficult!”

BC

Venomous

Listen to the folks here as they are wise, especially the ones who have conquered this task. I never saw what cam you are going with? True, you will need a tune regarless, but if you are in the 228s or under with a 113LSA or higher you should be fine to drive it to the tuner. It's the bigger overlap cams and tight LSAs that make drivability and even idling impossible without a tune. And with those same cams, your ECM has a tendency to run very rich to compensate for vacuum and can wash rings out fast. Good luck! Like another member said" If man can build it, it can be rebuilt." Mine is " If it can be put together, it can be taken apart and put back together." Basically the same thing. Be like Nike and "Just do it"

20vette0107fatboy

Thanks all you guys. Yes I feel pretty comfortable I can do it. Ill just take my time. I think this will be a blast to do. If I get in trouble, ill stop right away and ask one of you. Hey, I know most of you that have done this kind of work don't think putting headers on is a big deal but to me it was. I was alittle nervous but thanks to you guys I had know problems. Just took my time. Ill do the same thing with this project....

PewtVette

I did that and installed a steam tube crossover while I was back there:


Then I found this tiny o-ring on the garage floor. Lucky I found it:


I re-did my timing cover after reading this thread (see post #15). I would not follow the LS1HowTo for timing cover installation.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...ease-look.html

What could possibly go wrong? Good luck.

Bill Curlee

Thats a picture of the power steering steel line that goes into the rack,,CORRECT?

I just remembered ONE MORE thing. The timing chain cover gasket can be installed BACK-WARDS and if you do,,,,,,you Will have a massive oil leak.

Its obvious how it goes on if you examine it before the cover goes on but,,, if you take it for granted, Murphy's law will get ya!

bill

PewtVette

One last thing- a couple of cool videos:

http://corvettefever.automotive.com/...177/index.html

http://corvettefever.automotive.com/...300/index.html

PewtVette

Correct.

Wow, Bill, you're freaking me out (you're reading my mind). Do you see anything wrong with this picture? Yes I caught it way in time. At a glance that gasket looks symetrical.

20vette0107fatboy

I'm not installing heads. Just Cam, timing chain, high flow oil pump, new rods and springs, thermostat. There's no need to take my intake off is there. New pulley also

iced98lx

nope.

Bill Curlee

ANOTHER THING after watching those VIDs. You can remove the fan/shroud from the TOP and look at that CRAP on the radiators. Especially between condensor and radiator.

BC