rrobert22

I am thinking about getting the 3.42 gears, I currently have the 3.15 gears, and I was wondering if you guys had encountered any driveability problems with these gears, and if so what were they?

Also I would like to but some stage 2 heads, and am new to corvettes, and would like to know which ones have the best reputation for price, durability, and power, but not necessarily PEAK power, I am looking for driveability, and do not want a 3000 RPM stall TC. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. :confused:

Mitch C

I just had 3.42s installed along with a Pro Torque 2400 converter. I don't know how much of the extra acceleration my car now has comes from the 3.42s but there is a big difference in performance from a standing start. The Pro Torque 2400 is great for the guy who does not want a loose converter but still wants the extra thump a converter gives. This converter feels just like the stock converter until you nail, then hold on. As for the 3.42s they have not given me any driveabily issues at all, if you like your 3.15s you will love 3.42s same great driveabilty with more acceleration.

If you plan on doing cam and heads, a higher stall converter might be called for
However before buying a converter in the 3500 stall range, it would be a great idea to drive a car with this type of converter especially if your car is a daily driver. Some guys love the 3500 stall converters but others myself included think they are too loose for a daily driver, so check one out before you buy it.


98 A4 purple Metalic
Powerloaded
172 t.stat
Donaldson Blackwing
Pro Torque 2400
3.42 gears

:yesnod:


[Modified by Mitch C, 7:53 PM 3/10/2002]

vstella

For what it is worth.....I changed over from the 2.73 gears to a set of 3.42's and a Pro Torque 2800 stall converter.There is no drivability issues when the PCM is programmed for the chage. This is a MUST when changing gears. You should have no problem programming the PCM with a Hypertech III for your car .They are very available on this forum from several CF vendors.The CF vendors are very knowledgeable and will help!

I am just now thinking about a heads and cam change after all the bolt ons and exhaust modifications.You really can get quite a bit of power out of the car without going to a H/C setup :yesnod: Check out my sig times and dyno chart....This performance is WITHOUT any H/C setup!My home page documents all my mods with pics and vendors that I have used.Do some homework before you start ripping down the engine.

I would invest in a quality intake and exhaust setup first BEFORE you start to go into the engine....REALLY! I have had very good result without the H/C...just a thought :rolleyes:

rrobert22

I appreciate everybodys help, vstella, you do seem to have gotten excellent results, and for now I think that I will go the same route that you have, I used to have a mustang and there was no way you could get that kind of performance out of them without heads, cam, supercharger, etc.. But you have definitely gotten some good numbers. Could you tell me how your car drives at part throttle, around town? What I am looking at is basically 3.42 gears and a TC, maybe 2400 stall, with intake and exhaust mods. I really appreciate your help as I am new to corvettes.

Untouchable00

With the 3.42s, look at the SY3500. It has a high stall, which gives you more power throughout the entire powerband and the lowest STR (1.65) which gives it the least amount of wheel hop off the line, making it the most streetable. Many guys with the 3.42s go this route.

vstella

As I stated..Do the gears and the converter...The PT2400 should do the trick if you don't plan to do H/C,Otherwise you will need a higher stall 3000-3500.There are plenty of choices out there.Our CF vendors will guide you depending on your needs.

Yes, my car drives just fine cruising..When I want the beast to come out all I have to do is step on the throttle .Even at 1/2 throttle the car will grab and take off...at WOT the car is sideways .. :eek: You will grow into the mods as you add them.Do the driveline then intake/exhaust then you can think about the engine..Just my .02:D

Best advice..Get a installer that KNOWS what they are doing.Plenty of help here on the forum....:D Take a look at my home page for some ideas.... :yesnod:

oceanaire

I have gotten pretty good results with the 3.42's, Heads/Cam, and 3200 TC. (SEE SIG) There are no driveability problems except for traction on the street. If you're not going for a TC, then I don't believe you will have any problems. I went with a Norris Motorsports Stage II CNC head package with a Comp Cam 218/224 on a 114 LSA. A mild cam. Working with Mike Norris was a very pleasureable experience, and the results were fantastic. Give him a call. He's one of the Forum vendors. Even if you don't buy from him, he'll be happy to lend his expertise and point you in the right direction. Good luck!! Eric :cheers:

gary brown

Welcome to the forum! Otherwise knows as Mod Madness! :D

IMO you are getting some EXCELLENT feedback from everybody. I just want to share a little bit of my limited experience in doing mods.

I also started off with bolt-ons (intake and exhaust). What I didn't realize at the time was that this whole idea of doing mods can become addicting.

With that in mind, some of us tend to spend lots of extra money because we wind up doing things more than once. For example you stated that you would like durability and power but not necessarily PEAK POWER.

Now, with basic bolt-ons, 3.42 gears (which will pose no problem whatsoever, assuming you get your computer reprogrammed) and a PT 2400 converter you will get exactly what you want. This is a common configuration that many of us START with.

It could have ended there but as I read your post again, you did mention the possiblility of getting Stage 2 heads. If you do that, then you are entering a whole other world in terms of performance capabilities. I just got an MMS Stage 2 heads/cam setup and went from 296 rwhp to 380 rwhp but I still have the 3.42 gears and the 2400 stall. This combination is excellent on the street but I am very much aware that I am leaving lots of performance on the table because of the wimpy TC. I now wish that I had originally gone from a stock converter to an ST or SY 3500. I will likely stay with the 3.42's for awhile as this is also my daily driver.

I guess my point is this. If you think that you might be a vette owner who may want more down the line in terms of performance, then you might be able to save yourself THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS by doing it right the first time. This isn't such an easy thing to figure out. The need for more performance can be quite seductive - just ask anybody else here who regularly visits these forums! :D

Guys, am I giving Robert good advice here?

I apologize for this long-winded post but if I/we can save you a few bucks here and there, then maybe it was worthwhile. Again, congrats on getting a new vette - it is likely that you may never go back to anything else!

Just my .02 cents.

gary

BobG

Gary..I'd say you, and everyone else have great advice. I've BTDT myself (spent $'s upgrading upgrades). The key is knowing what you want as a whole package, and then deciding which steps in which order are going to get you where you want to go.

Sometimes, mistakes work out for the best though...my last one was so far gone in one direction, I'd have had to re do the whole car...so I sold it, and bought something different to start working on..:)

1990bevile

not to confuse the issue more but you will never run out of choices for stall speed. Curently there is everything for the 4L60E in 100 increments up from 2400 (so 2400,2500,2600,2800,2900,3000,3200,3400, 3500...). There are also at least 5 manufacturers. I know this dosent help but just to give you a more compleate picture of the problem. On top of this some manufacturers 2800's reportedly perform like others 3000's.

K&B Motorsports

On the gears, go with the GM direct and consider having GM install them (they are fully warrantied that way, parts and labor), or at a minimum go with the GM gears. Costs a little more than takeouts, but having been through two sets, you'll save the money if you ever have to replace them.

On the TC... the more HP you throw at the TC, the higher the stall becomes. I'm sure one of the TC experts can give you the math behind it. I'm running 2800 stall PI Vigilante 5disc and the difference between stock, my HC package and the 100 shot n2o on top of it is dramatic in terms of the stall characteristics. The quoted stall is based on stock HP, not on the actual HP your car is putting down.

The other thing is if the shop you have work done at as the LS1 Edit, they can really tune the behaviour of the transmission and TC to suit your driving style. It takes a lot of work sometimes, but the rewards are well worth it.

Just food for thought.




[Modified by K&B Motorsports, 8:44 AM 3/11/2002]