Is it Clutch Time?
01-31-2010, 06:45 PM
#21
Melting Slicks
Well, mine was definetly ready, when we took it a part it had some real hot spots in it and probably wouldn't have made past a couple passes at the track. I'm now breaking it in and I think the spec stage 2+ was the right choice for me. Good luck.
02-01-2010, 09:40 AM
#22
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2003
Location: Tampa Fl
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
I had the Textrilia clutch installed about 3 years ago and maybe 8000 miles on it. It chattered like a cold cat since day one. It has always grabbed hard.
The last couple weekends, I havent noticed slipping running the gears, but that last couple drives, Ive been hearing a swiping noise just as the clutch engauges.
Ive had the slipping clutch in gears ,and it doesnt seem to have that.
Its like im hearing only in first gear off the line on a normal take off, the clutch and the pressure plate seem to sound like a slight slip before it graps.
The last couple weekends, I havent noticed slipping running the gears, but that last couple drives, Ive been hearing a swiping noise just as the clutch engauges.
Ive had the slipping clutch in gears ,and it doesnt seem to have that.
Its like im hearing only in first gear off the line on a normal take off, the clutch and the pressure plate seem to sound like a slight slip before it graps.
02-01-2010, 10:50 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
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Location: Branchburg, NJ
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The engagement point will vary throughout the life of the clutch as the clutch disk wears down and gets thinner. The OEM LUK pressure plate compensates for this by self adjusting the diaphragm spring pivot point. The pressure plate spring pivot point can also be adjusted manually, there is a procedure for it in the service manual.
If the clutch does not slip and it is not exhibiting high RPM shifting problems I would continue to run it. The OEM LUK clutch is much better than what most give it credit for on this forum.
Get yourself a service manual, familiarize yourself with the clutch assembly and do not listen to the internet experts. Otherwise you may end up replacing a serviceable clutch with lots of potential life left in it.
If the clutch does not slip and it is not exhibiting high RPM shifting problems I would continue to run it. The OEM LUK clutch is much better than what most give it credit for on this forum.
Get yourself a service manual, familiarize yourself with the clutch assembly and do not listen to the internet experts. Otherwise you may end up replacing a serviceable clutch with lots of potential life left in it.
Clutch Pressure Plate Adjustment On-Vehicle
Important
The aid of an assistant will be necessary during this procedure.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the engine flywheel inspection cover retaining bolts.
Remove the engine flywheel inspection cover.
Have an assistant press the clutch pedal until tension is released from the clutch pressure plate stepped adjusting ring, then continue to hold the pedal.
Hold 2 screwdrivers or other suitable tools, and place them against 2 of the 3 stepped adjusting ring tension spring stops (1), just ahead of the adjusting ring tension springs.
Using the screwdrivers, rotate the stepped adjusting ring counterclockwise (compressing the tension springs) until the adjusting ring steps are fully adjusted out, then continue to hold in position.
Have your assistant release the clutch pedal.
Release the adjusting ring tension spring stops.
Install the engine flywheel inspection cover.
Install the engine flywheel inspection cover retaining bolts. Tighten
Tighten the engine flywheel inspection cover retaining bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Lower the vehicle.
