SteveDoten

2002 Z06 137,000, this car wheels hops bad(as did all my C5's)

Factors?

1. cold pavement
2. Tires? Falken RT615's (315's out back)
3. suspension is bone stock
4. motor is bone stock

FIX?

1. urethane motor mounts/Pfadt mm's
2. rear diff pfadt brace
3. coilovers
4. alignment????

What does it take to stop the HOP?

thanks

ZZOOM06

Put some QA1 adjustables on there, that should cure the problem.

Jimbo

AU N EGL

NEW tires.

Yes cold pavement
YES old tires,

YES Lead foot - go easy on the throttle.You will be suprised how fast you can go or take off with a light foot

lionelhutz

Tires? Mine only wheel hops until the tires run say about 5 to 10 blocks or it's raining. Otherwise I never have to worry about it hopping when I get on it. I'm running Michelin PS2's but others have posted that their car wheel hops bad with them.

I can see the shocks having an effect. Then, my guess would be the trans mount and the rear lower control arm bushings are the ones that could have the biggest effect.

Is your car lowered? Mine already was when I got it.

Peter

WKMCD

Hey Steve,

Good news. My car used to wheel hop so bad I was very concerned about leaving pieces/parts in the road behind me. I just did LG coilovers and PFADT sway bars and now have now wheel hop. I run 315x18 PS2's in the back. I even like the tires now - which I didn't before.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...rs-review.html

Bad news - $$

Kappa

It seems really hit and miss with these cars.

I don't have a problem on the street. If you are launching, you might as well blow the tires off. No wheel hop then.

At the drag strip I had a little bit but if you work the clutch and gas right you can minimize it. Tires and temperature do have a pretty big effect too.

My uncle put poly bushings in his RCA's(upper and lower IIRC) on his '03 Z06. Eradicated his wheel hop. He's at 630whp now and still has no problems.

yyzmsp

DTE tranny brace cured mine as soon as it went on. Totally gone

Warp Factor

I wish I knew. It seems like every time someone says they've solved it, there's someone else with the same setup who still has it.

A trans brace made no difference for me. Different tires change things a little but don't fix it.... the hop just occurs under different conditions and temperatures, and it's more violent with drag radials, as would be expected.

C6 ZO6 shocks didn't fix it. A high percentage of people seem to get an improvement by running an adjustable shock at a very stiff setting, but I'm not sure I want to do this.

On other cars where I didn't care about noise or ride quality, removing flexibility has taken care of it (stiff adjustable shocks, and spherical control arm ends). One of the remarkable things about the C5 though is that it does so many things well without many compromises, so I'm reluctant to give up that quality.

I'm looking for the answer too.

BillY2KFRC

Pfadt motor mounts fixed it for me.

After we installed the coilovers and T1 swaysbars it actually seemed to amplify the issue of hop. Getting everything aligned helped, but it was still bad. We did it before winter, so I'm thinking it was also cold roads and cold Michelin PS2 tires. I know certain tires HATE the cold, and the Michelins fall into that category.

But, even on cold roads, with these motor mounts I can slam the gas in the first gear and get no hop at all. But there is a trade off of added NVH with the mounts.

These cars are weird though, my old modded FRCs didn't hop at all, or if they did it was rare. It seems the Z06 is more prone to hop, possibly due to the stiffer rear spring and shock valving, hard to say why.

corvettejoe98

I get wheel hop SOMETIMES. When I am launching in a race I get a little spin but I hook and take off right away. I actually can hook better than front wheel drive rice burners I always kill them off the line and then obviously thats the end of the race haha. Anyway though sometimes when I try to do a burn out especially up a hill or something like that on dry hot pavement I get a little bit of hop. I have Bilstein HD shocks. Z06 bars, Pfadt trans brace. Those items seem to have cured the problem for the most part. I dont know though I know my dads 05 Z gets TERRIBLE wheel hop. I think some cars have it worse than others. I dont know why but try those things that should cost you about a grand to get all that stuff and should greatly reduce if not cure the wheel hop.

K RIPPER

Wheel hop...been chasin' that gremlin for some time now,what I'v tried so far lowered car in rear helped a little,bought QA1first for rear played w/them extensively many hops, burnt rubber, adjustments later going up,down ,equally,then stagger up ,down,side to side the car responded of to a setting of 7 pass.side (1 being softest)and 4 drivers side the drawback? problem now was the rear would kick out to the right tried it out for couple days it turned out to be pretty dangerous seems if you get some spin in 1st and whack 2nd hard the rear comes around real quick...scary...bought QA1 f/front seemed to help a little bought PFADT rear trans mount that helped now got a little NHV not bad its livable all these mods have helped hop not nearly bad as before.Funny thing the frequency of the hop is down about 80% but the severeity(how bad it is when it does hop) is down about 50% it seems to be an ongoing exercise with no single clear cut answer.What I'm working on now is ride height as stagger shock settings in rear seemed to have the most dramatic effect I am going to try playing with the rear ride height with the emphasis on a slight preload on the right rear. getting a preload there, the right one just might be the answer but I'm taking baby steps as a result of the experencew/stagger settings w/shocks going to track oct. 10...get 2 time shots first will be baseline then second time shot I'll stiffen RR. and see what happens any earth shattering news and I'll post.PS the DTE trans brace looks like it might do the trick...anybody have the brace and it DIDN'T help...this (hop) is an ongoing problem for many forum members if you have anything to add good or bad chime in, collectively maybe we can solve this problem.

WKMCD

I still got hop with the ECS tranny/diff brace. It wasn't until I did the LG GT2 coilovers and PFADT that I got rid of hop.

Just my $.02

corvettebob1

Your guess is as good as mine, 98 base supension with Hotchkis stab bars and never had any wheel hop.
Oh and it's an automatic with a 2600 Vig. converter, even with the stock one it never hopped.
Went from runflats on factory mags, they just spun. To F1 GS-D3's on aftermarket Y2K's they spin some and grab hard.

sami85L98

Auto cars not much stick cars are just terrible...iam even afraid to go drag racing because of wheel hop, change to Koni FSD shocks elimated little but still there. GY stock F1 tires are think part of culprit too, thinking of pfadt motor mounts but god its so expensive though.

Chris Stewart

Look at this post, it pretty much covers the same topic: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-z...-wheelhop.html

Warp Factor

I really had to post again because it was an opportunity to quote myself.

But to you understand now what I was talking about? No solution so far seems to work for everyone.

If you don't have enough power to spin 'em much, wheel hop won't be a problem, and any "fix" will work. If you spin 'em every time you go out, like I do, it's more of an issue, and harder to fix.

Can we hear from someone who has actually fixed it, who has high power, and frequently gets into wheel spin?

WKMCD

What do you consider "high power". I make 400ft/lb of RWT at 2500RPM and wheel hop was a huge problem with the 315 PS2's. I solved my wheel hop problem. Still spin but that's not going to break things.

Warp Factor

Sounds like that would qualify.
Do you have a sense of which change made the difference, or was the biggest contributor? The coil-overs are solid-end, aren't they, instead of rubber bushings? Maybe reducing the flex there is enough to make a difference. It doesn't seem like the relocated spring would be a factor.

K RIPPER

As this prob. is more evident in stick cars,what is different here,well automatic cars the drivetrain is torqued up to a small degree once its in gear a stick gets torqued when clutch is released, maybe going from an at ease suspension ,at rest,relaxed the sudden shock as opposed to a auto where slack is taken up and so to speak poised and ready to go.Or maybe w/auto as drivetrain weight is different might be a contributing factor or as a few have stated coilovers in rear have worked which says something is compromised in the rear suspension .My suspicions at this point
I think the hardness or softness of rear control arm bushings might be a major factor but a guess at this point vs. work involved negates a change at the present.just throwing ideas out there maybe somebody has something to add or expand..... my $.02 your $.02 it adds up.....

WKMCD

I really can't say which had more affect or whether it's a combination of both since I did them both at the same time.