deadcafe

2000 FRC H/C/I/full exhaust. The other day I was driving my Vette and when I looked in the mirror I noticed a cloud about 250 yards behind me. I thought "Thats not from me",.LOL famous last words right? Well when I got home I popped the hood and noticed the ac belt was shredded, serp belp was in between belt seats on the crank pulley, and a serous ammount of oil on the ground. Then I noticed that the Crank pulley bolt was completly loose and would have fallen out were it not for the steering rack and the pulley was no longer seated where it should be. Soooooo, with all that said I wanted to ensure this does not happen again.
I bought the following items:
1. Summit 25% underdriven crank pulley
2. both belts (AC and the accesory belt for the underdrive pulley application)
3. Heavy Duty Loctite
4. ARP crank pulley bolt (damn thing was 28 bucks)
5. Timing cover replacement gasket kit from felpro

If anyone has any tips or gained experience for removal of the pulley and timing cover and re installation I would really appreciate it.. Thanks guys

dougbfresh

You have to remove the steering rack to do this job.

deadcafe

now is it possible to move the rack without disconnecting the input and output fluid lines?

dgrant3830

Where did the oil come from? The front seal shouldn't have come out too but the balancer will trash the steering rack and badly. Hope not for your sake.

vettenuts

No, line must be disconnected.


You need the correct installation and removal tools as well. The loctite won't do anything for this but cause headaches later, I wouldn't use it. The pulley depends on an interference fit and preload into the crank. Since the existing pulley spun on the crank so bad, the OD of the crank may be out of spec. You should measure it and you need to do this to 0.0001" accuracy as the interference fit is less than 0.001". I would suggest pinning the new pulley. Not sure what the summit pulley is but the ATI and Powerbond have keyways for pinning the crank (SLP does too but it is essentially a Powerbond) with the ATI kit.

deadcafe

It came close but it never hit the rack except for the bolt but the rack was all that was holding it in at the time. The oil is comming from the front seal, I guess it could have cause the pulley to back off. I am at a loss.

Tyler valo

My friend just had the same issue happen, the guy who did his H/C reused the stock bolt.

deadcafe

I plan on removing the steering rack and then using a puller for the pulley, I will then remove the water pump and then the timing chain cover. I will then clean it up and add the new gaskets and front seal, I will then install the cover the water pump and then do my best to get the new pulley on the key way and add up too 240 lbs of torque to the ARP (re-usable) crank bolt.
Please let me know if I have forgotten anything, i am going in a Virgin.

deadcafe

That makes complete sense, I bought the car with a H/C combo on it. Luckily I caught it prior to hearing a clanging under the hood.

Tyler valo

Remove the water pump, alt bracket, power steering and ABS stuff first. Be sure you buy an 18mm fairnut wrench, the only real way the PS lines will come off.

deadcafe

When I reinstall the PS lines do I need to bleed the system? If so How or is it self bleeding with the bubbles rising to the top (the perfect situation).

Are there any other special tools I will need aside from a torque wrench, pulley puller, 18mm fairnut wrench, impact wrench, a pipe for reach on the T wrench? Why should I not use the loctite???

deadcafe

What do you mean by pining? what does this entale. I know there is a keyway and I need to line those up then install the pulley and torque it down to 240lbs I really want to use the loctite for mental purposes.

lucky131969

I must have done something wrong, I did not have to remove the water pump, ,alt bracket, or ABS?

Tyler valo

If he's gonna replace the timing cover he'll need to remove that stuff, the water pump for sure at least.

dgrant3830

I'm not sure but I don't think there is a keyway like the days of old. That's why they suggest pinning it.

vettenuts

Is the timing cover seal leaking or the gasket? If the seal you don't need to remove the cover to replace.

As for pinning, there are two types of kits. One, shown by Patches in the above thread, drills the crank end on and the pin is inserted endwise into the crane with half into the crank and half into the pulley hub. The ATI kit drills the crank from the side so the pin is 90 degrees to the crank snout. Then the pulley must have a keyway milled into it. I used the ATI kit.

Here is the drilled hole, into which the pin is inserted. It is the one near the end of the crank. The key in the crank will be covered, this photo was taken prior to installation of the oil drive sprocket onto the crank which will cover the key.



Here are the lines, use a toothbrush or something to clean the area prior to removal. You can access from the wheel well, which can be easier then from the top.






I made caps to prevent fluid loss while the rack was out and used 3/8" rubber vacuum caps on the hoses. I don't think I lost more than a few drops of fluid.

timemender

The Summit pulley has a keyway. ATI is the pinning method that is best and is made to use the keyway slot in the new pulley’s hub.

Use red lock-tight on that ARP bolt and torque it down to 240 ft lbs AFTER the balancer is properly seated.

22655td

You dont need to pin it unless you have supercharger running off the pulley, If you use the old bolt to install the pulley and tighen up hard, then take it out and install the new bolt. Put locktight on the threads. Inspect the end of the crank nose well, You also torque it then you have to use the torque turn method.

Eric D

I learned something new last week. You can teach an old dog a new trick now and then. To help reduce the risk of the harmonic balancer rotating, pining might be the best choice. Short of pinning, there is a diamond powered washer that comes standard on the LS2, LS3, LS7 and LS9 even though it is keyed as well. It is part number 12600525 that fits between the balancer and the oil pump drive. The washer allow the joint to withstand higher torsional loads.

vettenuts

Why in the world is everyone recommending loctite? The last time I spoke to ARP engineering, they told me that I wouldn't believe how many people call up complaining that they have broken bolts using loctite when trying to remove. ARP doesn't recommend using Loctite on this bolt. Do so at your own risk.

The OP spun the hub on the crank. If it has lost any of the interference capability then pinning the crank is good insurance.