Tormania

I went to recharge my A/C system last night after it stopped blowing cold air. After hooking up my manifold gauges and checking my system pressure with the A/C running I saw that my pressure didn't move from the static measurements beforehand. Based on my documentation that tells me the compressor is not working.

So as we continue to experience record heat this summer in San Antonio I now have the joy of needing to get my AC compressor replaced in my 2000 C5. How much am I looking at $$$ wise for this repair? I know I need to find a good shop first which will be half the challenge. Should I get the compressor and take it to them or let them order it? New compressor or rebuilt?

Just finished my headlight motor repair this weekend and had hoped I wouldn't have to worry about anymore repairs for a while.....didn't make it 3 days. UGH!

jimcork1

You didn't mention what pressures you had.?

If the pressures are good you might just have a defective low pressure switch. Did you check to see if you had 12 V on the compressor?

If you have done this I would use only NEW or Factory Reman compressors. I have had too many go backs on rebuilt. But that is just my own experience.

I would expect in the area of $1500 for compressor replacement. Unless you do it yourself. Then you could probably do the job for around $500

rebelheart

Did you check the obvious?Was the a/c compressor actuall engaged/energized?

Road Runner

I just had mine replaced (C% 2001). All the seals were gone and I don't have the capability to replace it myself. $1400..

rr

kg54trains

Use only new parts. It is not worth the price difference on a new/rebuilt part. Rebuilt can fail and labor to redo is not worth the $$$$ difference. A great "How To" thread with pics is on this forum.
Parts are about $500-$600 to replace all the effected parts. Mechanics labor is 900-1000. Time/labor is a killer.

wildbadbill

First of all see if the clutch actually engages....
The labor is high because you have to remove the water pump to get the compressor.If you can manage that than you can save major $.

Tormania

It was hot and the pressures were just over 100psi on both sides, which is what I expected when I hooked up my gauges. They just didn't move when I started the car and turned on the A/C.

jimcork1

100 psi is about right on a hot day. You really must verify the voltage to the compressor before replacing it.

jamesge

Should be around 33psi low side, and 225?psi on high side, on a hot day. That is at 2000 rpms. Sounds like your compressor is def bad.

jimcork1

Your numbers are close to what I use for a good system. This is based on the compressor having 12 volts and running.



I sledom see a compressor fail unless it siezes up or wears out slowly allowing the high side pressure to fall. If compressor was working when he turned the car off I suspect electrical supply issues to the compressor.

If there is no power hi / lo pressures will be the same and it might be a defective compressor or a power supply issue.

Eric D

Could also be a bad coil on the clutch. Need to check power to it.

jimcork1

Good catch,, it could be the coil. I have had the clutch bearing fail drop the pulley to the coil and wear through killing the clutch.

Tormania

Found a good shop that can give me a complete and proper diagnosis for $60 and then we go from there on what needs to be repaired. Hopefully it's something that is less expensive then a complete replacement but we shall see. Thanks for the advice guys.

jimcork1

Best to ya.. let us know how it turns out.

vettdvr

Tormania

Well the shop called back. They said the system was completely empty of refrigerant so they filled it up, added dye and then ran the system for an hour. They could find no leaks anywhere. A/C blowing 40 degrees out the vents. They are gonna wait until 3pm this afternoon and then stress test it in the heat of the day to see if a leak is apparent when the system is stressing with 100 degree heat after sitting in the sun all day. They said the compressor looked good, makes a little noise but otherwise appears fine. They did say that if they can't find a leak in the common places; acumulator, compressor, orifice tube, etc; then a leak might in the evaporator core. He made it sound that if this is the culprit that it is a bigger and more expensive problem then simply a compressor replacement.

Anyone had an evaporator core need replacing and if so how much? I'm hoping that's not it and I can live with adding refrigerant once a year or so for a while before shelling out the big $$$$ for a more extensive repair donw the road.

jimcork1

You hope it isn't the evap. You have to pull the entire dash out of the car to get to it. Read Lots of labor = $$$$$$$$

Parts about $250 total.

Nitro Junkie

Mine is going through a can of Freon a week. Put the dye in and it looks like the leak is on the rear of the compressor. The seal kit is only $10. How hard is it to change the seals? Can I do it without removing the compressor? Looks like I might be able to jack it up and take the wheel off and get to it with a long extension and swivel. Anybody do this?

jimcork1

I haven't replaced o-rings on the rear of a compressor on a C5. You might try a very tiny pull on the bolt holding them in. DON"T over tighten and break it off.

I have done this job on conventional cars with a/c comp on the top of the engine.

tail_lights

Any news on this? My AC just took a dump on me. Checked freon level yesterday and its good but no compressor kick-on. I definitely have no voltage going to the compressor though.

Onion

Since the water pump has to be pulled anyway to get to the compressor, should it also be replaced?