speedyhawk101

OK I searched and didn't find anything.

I'm installing Stainless brakeline this weekend and wanted to know what the best fluid out there is.

I have an 02 Z06 with Z51spec Baer 2 piece rotors. I mostly drive the car on the street But it will hopefully spend some time on the Auto X course.

What are your suggestions?

speedyhawk101

anyone out there

AU N EGL

Castrol SFR ~$80 / quart

Motul or ATE Blue <$20 / quart

ipuig

Any name brand DOT 4 (Valvoline, Castrol, Motul...) will do for autocross, your choice. The key is to bleed the brakes often, especially if you track the car.

MTPZ06

Lots of folks endorse the motul...I'm looking to do pads/rotors/stainless lines on all 4 corners in the upcoming weeks, and I'm going with the motul based on numerous recommendations given to me.

Wicked Weasel

I posted this some time ago and might not have all the latest brake fluids, but should help with decision making.

http://www.ecsracing.com/ecsracing/showthread.php?t=570


DOT 3 VS. DOT 4 and 5.1
AFCO's 570º brake fluid is a DOT 3 type fluid. However, it has a dry boiling point that is 52º higher than DOT 5.1 specifications, 124º higher than DOT 4 specifications and 169º higher than DOT 3 specifications. AFCO's 570º fluid meets or exceeds all DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 lubrication, corrosion protection and viscosity specifications.

WET VS. DRY BOILING POINT
The term boiling point when used regarding brake fluid means the temperatures that brake fluid will begin to boil.

WET BOILING POINT
The minimum temperatures that brake fluids will begin to boil when the brake system contains 3% water by volume of the system.

DRY BOILING POINT
The temperatures that brake fluid will boil with no water present in the system.

MOISTURE IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM
Water/moisture can be found in nearly all brake systems. Moisture enters the brake system in several ways. One of the more common ways is from using old or pre-opened fluid. Keep in mind, that brake fluid draws in moisture from the surrounding air. Tightly sealing brake fluid bottles and not storing them for long periods of time will help keep moisture out. When changing or bleeding brake fluid always replace master cylinder caps as soon as possible to prevent moisture from entering into the master cylinder. Condensation, (small moisture droplets) can form in lines and calipers. As caliper and line temperatures heat up and then cool repeatedly, condensation occurs, leaving behind an increase in moisture/water. Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of calipers, lines, master cylinders, etc. When this water reaches 212º F the water turns to steam. Many times air in the brake system is a result of water that has turned to steam. The build up of steam will create air pressure in the system, sometimes to the point that enough pressure is created to push caliper pistons into the brake pad. This will create brake drag as the rotor and pads make contact and can also create more heat in the system. Diffusion is another way in that water/moisture may enter the system.

Diffusion occurs when over time moisture enters through rubber brake hoses. The use of hoses made from EPDM materials (Ethlene-Propylene-Diene-Materials) will reduce the amount of diffusion OR use steel braided brake hose with a non-rubber sleeve (usually Teflon) to greatly reduce the diffusion process.

THINGS TO REMEMBER

• Brake fluids dry boiling point is more important then wet boiling point when used in a racing brake system.
  
• Passenger cars very rarely will undergo a brake fluid change making the wet boiling point more important.
• Racing brake system fluid is changed often and a system with fresh fluid will most likely not contain water.
• Because of this, racers should be concerned with the dry boiling point.
• Racing fluid exceeds DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 dry boiling point specifications.
• Never use silicone based fluids in racing brake systems.
• Using racing brake fluid will increase performance of the braking system.
• Never reuse fluid. º Never mix types or brands of brake fluid.
• Use smaller fluid containers that can be used quicker.
• If fluid remains in container be sure to tightly seal and do not store for long periods of time.
• Purge system (complete drain) and replace fluid often.

Below list provided by "The ultimate brake fluid comparison chart" (I would like to add more to this).

Passenger cars very rarely will undergo a brake fluid change making the wet boiling point more important.

Racing brake system fluid is changed often and a system with fresh fluid will most likely not contain water Because of this, racers should be concerned with the dry boiling point.

Arranged by Dry L

• DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
• DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
• DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
• DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
• DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
• DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
• DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)
• DRY:543F -- WET:349F --- Endless The truth DOT 4 ($35/1L)
• DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)
• DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ)
• DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)
• DRY:572F -- WET:284F --- US Brake/AFCO Racing 570 Gold
• DRY:572F -- WET:421F --- US Brake/AFCO Racing Ultra HTX
• DRY:577F -- WET:300F --- Brake Man
• DRY:585F -- WET:421F --- Earl's Hypertemp 421
• DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING Super 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
• DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
• DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)
• DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
• DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610($11.95/12 OZ)
• DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ)
• DRY:617F -- WET:413F --- Endless RF-450 ($45/1L)
• DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF [seem to no longer be available]
• DRY:622F -- WET:424F --- Endless RF-650
• DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ)

Arranged by wet boiling point:

• DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
• DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated
• DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3
• DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570
• DRY:572F -- WET:284F --- US Brake / AFCO Racing 570 Gold
• DRY:577F -- WET:300F --- Brake Man
• DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
• DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
• DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
• DRY:543F -- WET:349F --- Endless The truth DOT 4
• DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
• DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
• DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
• DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS
• DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING Super 600
• DRY:617F -- WET:413F --- Endless RF-450
• DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600
• DRY:572F -- WET:421F --- US Brake/AFCO Racing Ultra HTX
• DRY:585F -- WET:421F --- Earl's Hypertemp 421
• DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
• DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610
• DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610
• DRY:622F -- WET:424F --- Endless RF-650
• DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF [seem to no longer be available]
• DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF

MTPZ06

Wow...so...which ones are good??

Wicked Weasel

Street I use ATE Super Blue
Track Wilwood 600 EXP

theadmiral94

speedyhawk101,

Is this the first time the brake fluid is being changed?

How often do you plan on changing the brake fluid from here on out?

Considering it's a 2002 -- and presuming the fluid is 7 years old -- which albeit not good, likely part of the reason it is still somewhat ok is because it was DOT-3 fluid.

Further presume the brake master fluid cap says "only use DOT-3 fluid".

The reason for the cap wording is both for the ABS/ASR unit (seal and metal compatability) and longevity (DOT-3 fluids actually absorbs less moisture over time than most DOT-4 fluids).

FYI, some DOT-4 brake fluids achieve the DOT-4 specs by adding chemicals which unfortunately will damage ABS units. Hence the reason the cap says "use only DOT-3 fluid".

If your planning on changing the brake fluid every 1-2 years, then a good quality dot-3 "COMPATIBLE" brake fluid or SOME DOT-4 brake fluids COULD be used.

However, if the brake fluid will not be changed for 3 plus years, or your planning on selling the car within the next 3-4 years (to be considerate to future owners) -- suggest ONLY using a DOT-3 fluid.

speedyhawk101

Thanks for the replies! Good info. I will take notes and make a decision in a couple of days.

Thanks again

AU N EGL

Use Castrol SRF for brake and clutch fluid in track car

and Castrol LMA in wifes vette, toyota and pick up trucks.

I also change the brake fluid in my pick up before I tow the trailer any distance.

UstaB-GS549

Castrol LMA, Valoline Synthetic & Prestone Dot4. All are around $3 a pint at Walmart, Target etc. All are semi-race worthy. You can do better, but Dry BP drops off significantly after 3 months or so. For that reason, race fluids are only good if you change them often. SRF is $70 a liter or so last time I checked and not really cost effective. Even the guys that run SRF have to bleed brakes every once in a while.

I have been running DOT4 stuff in my 2002 Z06 for 6 years now, with no ill effects.

ipuig

Which ones, and what specifically do they add that is harmful to the ABS system?

AU N EGL

This is correct, HOWEVER, Even DOT 3 is "saturated" with water about 2% with in 60 days or refreshing. Use the WET boiling point

This is incorrect


Changing your brake fluid every year would be a very good idea. More would be better.

Most ppl who use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 ( NOT DOT 5) change their brake fluid quite often, monthly for many.