Head/Cam/Intake Progress - Lots of Pics!
04-09-2009, 07:26 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Head/Cam/Intake Progress - Lots of Pics!
Wanted to start a thread on my NA project I just started! 2003 Z06 with 10,000 miles. Going to install the following:
TEA CNC TFS 215's milled to 61cc, Comp Cam 232/236 .595/.578 113+3, TEA Ported Fast 90, Vmax ported 90mm LS2, Ford 42# SVO Injectors, Vararam CAI, Cloyes Hex Adjust 3153-AL, ATI 10% Underdrive 917278, DeWitt Radiator with Dual Spal Fans, Morel Lifters, Jesel shaft mount Roller Rockers, 2004 Valley Cover, Meziere EWP, Mike Norris Catch Can, Melling 10296 Oil Pump, QTP 2 Piece Timing Cover, Katech Valve Covers & Coil Relocation, LS2 Lifter Trays, Gaskets, ARP Hardware, etc...
Got started yesterday and taking my time and working by myself I got the following done -
Picture of car at start of project!
Engine bay untouched
Car on ramps and coolant draining
Air intake removed
Throttle body & waterpump removed
Alternator removed
Radiator & fans out
Steering Rack gone!!
Intake Manifold removed
Valve Covers off
Rockers off & headers unbolted
Passenger side head off
Drivers side head off
That is it for today! Maybe you can make some suggestions or tips for me as I go along. Right now I have the following concerns:
1.) Cleaning the block - best method and materials?
2.) Any problem removing the air system..what are the downsides?..would be nice!
3.) Put a breaker bar on the balancer bolt just to see. I have the rear tires on ground, car in 6th gear, emergency brake on...and I still got about 1" of movement without anything breaking loose. Didn't try any further until I found out what was best. Let me know! Never had an engine apart like this before!!
TEA CNC TFS 215's milled to 61cc, Comp Cam 232/236 .595/.578 113+3, TEA Ported Fast 90, Vmax ported 90mm LS2, Ford 42# SVO Injectors, Vararam CAI, Cloyes Hex Adjust 3153-AL, ATI 10% Underdrive 917278, DeWitt Radiator with Dual Spal Fans, Morel Lifters, Jesel shaft mount Roller Rockers, 2004 Valley Cover, Meziere EWP, Mike Norris Catch Can, Melling 10296 Oil Pump, QTP 2 Piece Timing Cover, Katech Valve Covers & Coil Relocation, LS2 Lifter Trays, Gaskets, ARP Hardware, etc...
Got started yesterday and taking my time and working by myself I got the following done -
Picture of car at start of project!
Engine bay untouched
Car on ramps and coolant draining
Air intake removed
Throttle body & waterpump removed
Alternator removed
Radiator & fans out
Steering Rack gone!!
Intake Manifold removed
Valve Covers off
Rockers off & headers unbolted
Passenger side head off
Drivers side head off
That is it for today! Maybe you can make some suggestions or tips for me as I go along. Right now I have the following concerns:
1.) Cleaning the block - best method and materials?
2.) Any problem removing the air system..what are the downsides?..would be nice!
3.) Put a breaker bar on the balancer bolt just to see. I have the rear tires on ground, car in 6th gear, emergency brake on...and I still got about 1" of movement without anything breaking loose. Didn't try any further until I found out what was best. Let me know! Never had an engine apart like this before!!
Last edited by vsocks1; 04-09-2009 at 09:33 PM.
04-09-2009, 08:12 PM
#2
Race Director
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CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Nice progress. At this rate you may be done before I get there. 
1. Cleaning the block deck. Plastic ice scraper to get most of the remaining gasket material off. Mild solvent, and scrub with (non metallic) sctotchbrite pad. This should get it 99%.
Final pass before the heads go on for good will be with a large flat honing stone. You don't have one, but I do.
2. No downsides. Remove all plumbing for it in the engine bay. Air pump itself is located under left headlight, and can be removed via the small access panel under the car. A few codes to edit out, and that's it, gone and forgotten. And easy plug changes in the future.
3. It will be a pain. I know mine was. 4th or 5th gear, E-brake on, rear wheels chocked. Might have better luck with a 1/2" impact and good air pressure. Failing that, breaker bar and long cheater pipe. Pull till it breaks loose, or till the car jumps forward and runs you over, whichever comes first.
At the point you're at now, next steps will be to unbolt lifter trays and remove the lifters. Get balancer bolt loose and pull balancer. Remove timing cover.
Remove cam sprocket, oil pump, timing chain, crank gear, cam retainer plate, and cam.
And then you'll have reached the point of starting reassembly!
1. Cleaning the block deck. Plastic ice scraper to get most of the remaining gasket material off. Mild solvent, and scrub with (non metallic) sctotchbrite pad. This should get it 99%.
Final pass before the heads go on for good will be with a large flat honing stone. You don't have one, but I do.
2. No downsides. Remove all plumbing for it in the engine bay. Air pump itself is located under left headlight, and can be removed via the small access panel under the car. A few codes to edit out, and that's it, gone and forgotten. And easy plug changes in the future.
3. It will be a pain. I know mine was. 4th or 5th gear, E-brake on, rear wheels chocked. Might have better luck with a 1/2" impact and good air pressure. Failing that, breaker bar and long cheater pipe. Pull till it breaks loose, or till the car jumps forward and runs you over, whichever comes first.
At the point you're at now, next steps will be to unbolt lifter trays and remove the lifters. Get balancer bolt loose and pull balancer. Remove timing cover.
Remove cam sprocket, oil pump, timing chain, crank gear, cam retainer plate, and cam.
And then you'll have reached the point of starting reassembly!
04-09-2009, 08:54 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
04-09-2009, 09:04 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Nice progress. At this rate you may be done before I get there.
1. Cleaning the block deck. Plastic ice scraper to get most of the remaining gasket material off. Mild solvent, and scrub with (non metallic) sctotchbrite pad. This should get it 99%.
Final pass before the heads go on for good will be with a large flat honing stone. You don't have one, but I do.
2. No downsides. Remove all plumbing for it in the engine bay. Air pump itself is located under left headlight, and can be removed via the small access panel under the car. A few codes to edit out, and that's it, gone and forgotten. And easy plug changes in the future.
3. It will be a pain. I know mine was. 4th or 5th gear, E-brake on, rear wheels chocked. Might have better luck with a 1/2" impact and good air pressure. Failing that, breaker bar and long cheater pipe. Pull till it breaks loose, or till the car jumps forward and runs you over, whichever comes first.
At the point you're at now, next steps will be to unbolt lifter trays and remove the lifters. Get balancer bolt loose and pull balancer. Remove timing cover.
Remove cam sprocket, oil pump, timing chain, crank gear, cam retainer plate, and cam.
And then you'll have reached the point of starting reassembly!
1. Cleaning the block deck. Plastic ice scraper to get most of the remaining gasket material off. Mild solvent, and scrub with (non metallic) sctotchbrite pad. This should get it 99%.
Final pass before the heads go on for good will be with a large flat honing stone. You don't have one, but I do.
2. No downsides. Remove all plumbing for it in the engine bay. Air pump itself is located under left headlight, and can be removed via the small access panel under the car. A few codes to edit out, and that's it, gone and forgotten. And easy plug changes in the future.
3. It will be a pain. I know mine was. 4th or 5th gear, E-brake on, rear wheels chocked. Might have better luck with a 1/2" impact and good air pressure. Failing that, breaker bar and long cheater pipe. Pull till it breaks loose, or till the car jumps forward and runs you over, whichever comes first.
At the point you're at now, next steps will be to unbolt lifter trays and remove the lifters. Get balancer bolt loose and pull balancer. Remove timing cover.
Remove cam sprocket, oil pump, timing chain, crank gear, cam retainer plate, and cam.
And then you'll have reached the point of starting reassembly!
I will remove the air system tomorrow...was fighting that damn stuff all day!
For balancer bolt I will use a long cheater bar. What gear is best?...I have it in 6th now thinking that was the best ratio. Are you serious about the car jumping?? And if so wouldn't the car want top go backwards?
Only cut myself twice today and busted one 8mm socket on the rocker stud bolts!
04-09-2009, 09:43 PM
#9
Race Director
Very nice H/C combination! You will no doubt put down some serious power with a top notch tune. How come your only going with a 10% UD crank pulley? Bump it to a 25% to get the most out of this beast.
Keep us posted on the build
Keep us posted on the build
04-09-2009, 09:46 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Only going 10% underdrive to play it safe! ATI didn't recommend 25% because they felt it couldn't dampen harmonics sufficiently. Figured better to be safe than sorry!
04-09-2009, 09:56 PM
#11
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2002
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CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
What, you don't have any expired aircraft paint thinnner laying around?
Almost any type will work, avoid brake cleaner. You don't need anything as harsh as lacquer thinner or acetone (but will work). Even mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol will work.
I wouldn't worry about that for the time being....I see the bulk of tomorrow's work for you being almost all in front of the engine.
I can bring some parts cleaning solvent and scotchbrite pad Sat. For the purpose of degreeing, it doesn't have to be 100% perfect...old gaskets and old head bolts will serve the purpose.
For checking p/v, we will mock up the new heads with .040" shim to replicate the new gasket thickness. (if you chickened out and bought .045", let me know, as i will have to bring some .005" shimstock too).
When that checks out fine, then it will be time for a finial deck clean, stud installation, drop gaskets on, drop heads on, and torque nuts.
As clean as yours appear to be, I see no harm in leaving them alone.
It is the most resistance to making the car move, yes, but is also physically the weakest gear and not really designed to see that sort of pressure. Put in 4th or 5th.
You can never tell when I'm joking. You'll learn.
But if the car still wants to move before the bolt breaks loose...do you have a propane bottle torch? Heating the bolt will definitely help.
Almost any type will work, avoid brake cleaner. You don't need anything as harsh as lacquer thinner or acetone (but will work). Even mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol will work.
I wouldn't worry about that for the time being....I see the bulk of tomorrow's work for you being almost all in front of the engine.
I can bring some parts cleaning solvent and scotchbrite pad Sat. For the purpose of degreeing, it doesn't have to be 100% perfect...old gaskets and old head bolts will serve the purpose.
For checking p/v, we will mock up the new heads with .040" shim to replicate the new gasket thickness. (if you chickened out and bought .045", let me know, as i will have to bring some .005" shimstock too).
When that checks out fine, then it will be time for a finial deck clean, stud installation, drop gaskets on, drop heads on, and torque nuts.
Should I bother cleaning the pistons or not?
For balancer bolt I will use a long cheater bar. What gear is best?...I have it in 6th now thinking that was the best ratio.
Are you serious about the car jumping?? And if so wouldn't the car want top go backwards?
But if the car still wants to move before the bolt breaks loose...do you have a propane bottle torch? Heating the bolt will definitely help.
04-09-2009, 10:10 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
What, you don't have any expired aircraft paint thinnner laying around?
Almost any type will work, avoid brake cleaner. You don't need anything as harsh as lacquer thinner or acetone (but will work). Even mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol will work.
I wouldn't worry about that for the time being....I see the bulk of tomorrow's work for you being almost all in front of the engine.
I can bring some parts cleaning solvent and scotchbrite pad Sat. For the purpose of degreeing, it doesn't have to be 100% perfect...old gaskets and old head bolts will serve the purpose.
For checking p/v, we will mock up the new heads with .040" shim to replicate the new gasket thickness. (if you chickened out and bought .045", let me know, as i will have to bring some .005" shimstock too).
When that checks out fine, then it will be time for a finial deck clean, stud installation, drop gaskets on, drop heads on, and torque nuts.
As clean as yours appear to be, I see no harm in leaving them alone.
It is the most resistance to making the car move, yes, but is also physically the weakest gear and not really designed to see that sort of pressure. Put in 4th or 5th.
You can never tell when I'm joking. You'll learn.
But if the car still wants to move before the bolt breaks loose...do you have a propane bottle torch? Heating the bolt will definitely help.
Almost any type will work, avoid brake cleaner. You don't need anything as harsh as lacquer thinner or acetone (but will work). Even mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol will work.
I wouldn't worry about that for the time being....I see the bulk of tomorrow's work for you being almost all in front of the engine.
I can bring some parts cleaning solvent and scotchbrite pad Sat. For the purpose of degreeing, it doesn't have to be 100% perfect...old gaskets and old head bolts will serve the purpose.
For checking p/v, we will mock up the new heads with .040" shim to replicate the new gasket thickness. (if you chickened out and bought .045", let me know, as i will have to bring some .005" shimstock too).
When that checks out fine, then it will be time for a finial deck clean, stud installation, drop gaskets on, drop heads on, and torque nuts.
As clean as yours appear to be, I see no harm in leaving them alone.
It is the most resistance to making the car move, yes, but is also physically the weakest gear and not really designed to see that sort of pressure. Put in 4th or 5th.
You can never tell when I'm joking. You'll learn.
But if the car still wants to move before the bolt breaks loose...do you have a propane bottle torch? Heating the bolt will definitely help.
I do have a propane torch so will use if it comes to that! One last question - what kind of beer do you drink?
04-09-2009, 10:31 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2007
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Be certain to clean ALL the coolant/grime from the headbolt holes or you wont be able to properly torque the new headbolts.
I would grind 1/2 of an old head bolt of all the way up the bolt and make a few passes in each hole, and then go in with an extra long q-tip and clean/dry everything up. I spent 1.5-2 hours doing this alone on the headswap on my TA!
I would grind 1/2 of an old head bolt of all the way up the bolt and make a few passes in each hole, and then go in with an extra long q-tip and clean/dry everything up. I spent 1.5-2 hours doing this alone on the headswap on my TA!
04-09-2009, 11:57 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Couldn't go to bed thinking about that balancer bolt.....so I went out in the garage and broke her loose! Now I can sleep having pleasant thoughts about working on the car tomorrow!
04-10-2009, 12:18 AM
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
04-10-2009, 12:24 AM
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Be certain to clean ALL the coolant/grime from the headbolt holes or you wont be able to properly torque the new headbolts.
I would grind 1/2 of an old head bolt of all the way up the bolt and make a few passes in each hole, and then go in with an extra long q-tip and clean/dry everything up. I spent 1.5-2 hours doing this alone on the headswap on my TA!
I would grind 1/2 of an old head bolt of all the way up the bolt and make a few passes in each hole, and then go in with an extra long q-tip and clean/dry everything up. I spent 1.5-2 hours doing this alone on the headswap on my TA!
04-10-2009, 12:24 AM
#19
Drifting
What, you don't have any expired aircraft paint thinnner laying around?
Real funny y2kvert4me , hey it worked LOL
Real funny y2kvert4me , hey it worked LOL
Last edited by OhioC5; 04-10-2009 at 12:27 AM. Reason: Picture
