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Old 03-12-2009, 07:40 PM   #1
silver97
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Default LS6 intake conversion on LS1

I have the LS6 TB and Intake for my 97 C5. Besides replacing the coolant lines lines that run under the manifold (does anyone have the p/n?), is there anything else needed? Gaskets? Or anything like that. Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:53 PM   #2
geezel
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Coolant crossover pipe 12602544
Rear plugs 12602540 (2 req'd). I just had to order a pair from Byunspeed as the delaer couldn't fix me up.
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:04 PM   #3
MattB
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From www.gmpartshouse.com's march specials thread:
12602544 – Coolant Pipe
12602540 – Coolant Plug Qty 2

You don't really need anything else, but www.lshowto.com has a good writeup.

If you feel OK with doing some minor cutting on the bottom of the intake you can re-use your existing one. Don't think it would be very hard, but have not done it.
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Old 03-13-2009, 04:16 PM   #4
Gideon's_Test
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The gaskets are re-usable....
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Old 03-13-2009, 07:13 PM   #5
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Default Thanks!

Thanks to all of you for your inputs!

Marv
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:03 AM   #6
NJ Torque
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Yup... should pickup a bit after your done.
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:20 AM   #7
1BADGTM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattB View Post
From www.gmpartshouse.com's march specials thread:
12602544 – Coolant Pipe
12602540 – Coolant Plug Qty 2

You don't really need anything else, but www.lshowto.com has a good writeup.

If you feel OK with doing some minor cutting on the bottom of the intake you can re-use your existing one. Don't think it would be very hard, but have not done it.

Has anyone tried to cut the bottom of the LS6 Intake manifold? If you cut it you dont need any extra parts right?
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BADGTM View Post
Has anyone tried to cut the bottom of the LS6 Intake manifold? If you cut it you dont need any extra parts right?
I've done it, and it works perfectly. I actually prefer this method as it keeps allows air bubbles from the back of the heads to escape... which is very important on motors that tend to have issues with the #7 and #8 cyls. I understand, the front of the head should be the highest point, etc. etc. but I don't see how it can possibly hurt to do it this way.

I used a die grinder to shave away the ridges, but you could probably get away with a pair of pliers and just break/twist the ridges off in the areas needed as well.
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuronClocker View Post
I've done it, and it works perfectly. I actually prefer this method as it keeps allows air bubbles from the back of the heads to escape... which is very important on motors that tend to have issues with the #7 and #8 cyls. I understand, the front of the head should be the highest point, etc. etc. but I don't see how it can possibly hurt to do it this way.

I used a die grinder to shave away the ridges, but you could probably get away with a pair of pliers and just break/twist the ridges off in the areas needed as well.

How about a dremel? Do you have pics?
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Has anyone tried to cut the bottom of the LS6 Intake manifold? If you cut it you dont need any extra parts right?
Yes. I recall a post several years ago where someone did just that. It's a bit more time consuming, but very do-able. That guy used something white (shoe polish as I recall) and coated the under manifold steel line. He then carefully laid the manifold down onto it and then Dremeled the clearance channel on the underside of the manifold where the white witness marks were. You would still probably have to remove the small plastic clips holding the knock sensor wires, but that's no real biggie. You can always substitute a couple small (3" or 4") zip ties if you want.

HTH
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC View Post
Yes. I recall a post several years ago where someone did just that. It's a bit more time consuming, but very do-able. That guy used something white (shoe polish as I recall) and coated the under manifold steel line. He then carefully laid the manifold down onto it and then Dremeled the clearance channel on the underside of the manifold where the white witness marks were. You would still probably have to remove the small plastic clips holding the knock sensor wires, but that's no real biggie. You can always substitute a couple small (3" or 4") zip ties if you want.

HTH
Thanks you for the information. I will attempt to look for this thread/post. Could you look as well and PM me or post here if you find it?

Thanks

Mike
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Old 03-31-2009, 02:08 AM   #12
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you can modify your existing coolant lines if you can solder/weld. you can also flip the rubber gaskets if yours are old and they will seal better, only have to cut off the corners on them. installation takes about 2 hours from start to finish for a first timer.

you can do this:



oh yeah, i didnt feel any power increase. im sure i picked up some, but only for a dyno, maybe 5-10hp tops cause id probably feel if it was more than that.

- kons

Last edited by Konstantin; 03-31-2009 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 03-31-2009, 02:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konstantin View Post
you can modify your existing coolant lines if you can solder/weld. you can also flip the rubber gaskets if yours are old and they will seal better, only have to cut off the corners on them. installation takes about 2 hours from start to finish for a first timer.

you can do this:



oh yeah, i didnt feel any power increase. im sure i picked up some, but only for a dyno, maybe 5-10hp tops cause id probably feel if it was more than that.

- kons
That's the ticket! Looks like you removed a bit more material than necessary, but hey whatever works.
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Old 03-31-2009, 02:36 AM   #14
1BADGTM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konstantin View Post
you can modify your existing coolant lines if you can solder/weld. you can also flip the rubber gaskets if yours are old and they will seal better, only have to cut off the corners on them. installation takes about 2 hours from start to finish for a first timer.

you can do this:



oh yeah, i didnt feel any power increase. im sure i picked up some, but only for a dyno, maybe 5-10hp tops cause id probably feel if it was more than that.

- kons
Awesome. Thankyou very much. I dont expect to notice much from the swap. I'm going to do a cam and valve spring Ect. swap soon and I thought the intake would be a nice addition to the new cam. Thanks for the pic

Mike
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:00 AM   #15
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If i were you id go get some new gaskets from autozone, they ordered me some for around 23$, not worth it to have to take your intake back off for a leak...just my .02
keith
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:40 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by C5ZLind View Post
If i were you id go get some new gaskets from autozone, they ordered me some for around 23$, not worth it to have to take your intake back off for a leak...just my .02
keith
Yeah, better safe than sorry!
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Old 03-31-2009, 12:41 PM   #17
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I also just cut the fins on the bottom. worked like a charm
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