Installed Russell Braided Brake Lines - ABS problem
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Installed Russell Braided Brake Lines - ABS problem
I tried to do a search but only found a couple of hints about the need to ground each end when installing Braided brake lines.
I am having intermittent code 1225 and 1226. I installed the new Russell lines (I purchased kit from Jegs) Monday. Problem started immediately.
Anyone got any good info on this issue. Where do you connect the ground wires?
Any pictures?
Anyone else having this problem still?
Thanks for any help.
Tony
I am having intermittent code 1225 and 1226. I installed the new Russell lines (I purchased kit from Jegs) Monday. Problem started immediately.
Anyone got any good info on this issue. Where do you connect the ground wires?
Any pictures?
Anyone else having this problem still?
Thanks for any help.
Tony
#2
Safety Car
Russell seems to be the brand with the most problems. A couple members have had success using copper as opposed to aluminum crush washers. The ground wire usually seems to work. They use a length of wire with ring terminals and attach from the caliper mounting bolt to the frame. They just zip tie the wire to the brake line to keep it out of the way.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Problem seems to be fixed
I checked the connection between the two ends of the new SS braided lines w/ an Ohm meter. Drivers side had 60 ohms resistance. Passenger side had 25 ohms resistance. Drivers side would set a code about every 5 minutes. Passender side code was set twice in 2 days.
Confirmed that the connection between the hard line and the braided line at the frame rail was a good ground point (bolt holding the retaining bracket).
Removed top caliper bold and cleaned area good. Installed ground wire and wrapped around brake line going to frame and installed ground at frame bolt.
Figured wrapping the wire around the line as I went to the frame would keep it in place instead of trying to use wire ties.
Have not seen the problem since.
Confirmed that the connection between the hard line and the braided line at the frame rail was a good ground point (bolt holding the retaining bracket).
Removed top caliper bold and cleaned area good. Installed ground wire and wrapped around brake line going to frame and installed ground at frame bolt.
Figured wrapping the wire around the line as I went to the frame would keep it in place instead of trying to use wire ties.
Have not seen the problem since.
Last edited by thomastl; 03-16-2009 at 12:21 PM.
#5
Burning Brakes
Different ground values at the wheel speed sensors. I am guessing that the stock rubber lines must have a grounding source in them. I have GoodYear SS hoses on my two C5's and never threw a code.
John
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was told it had to do with static buildup. I know it seemed to throw the code when I would hit a bump. Which would correspond to movement of the line. Given the braided hose rubbing the fibers I would guess would build up a charge that could not be disapated given the resistance of the overall line.
Rubber lines would be a complete open and would not do the same thing.
My guess is other brands are probably better connected at the ends and provide a better ground path from end to end.
Anyway, I had the wire and connectors. So still better to buy the $99.00 lines than more expensive ones.
You might check the resistance on the lines before you install them. If they are in the 10 ohm range, my guess is it would not throw a code.
Rubber lines would be a complete open and would not do the same thing.
My guess is other brands are probably better connected at the ends and provide a better ground path from end to end.
Anyway, I had the wire and connectors. So still better to buy the $99.00 lines than more expensive ones.
You might check the resistance on the lines before you install them. If they are in the 10 ohm range, my guess is it would not throw a code.