Brake Rotor Question
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Brake Rotor Question
What is the advantage of slotted brake rotors and slotted, cross drilled rotors? Is it true that cross drilled rotors can lead to cracking? Also what is the the best product out ther for a C5. Thanks in advance for your input!
#2
Re: Brake Rotor Question (l2vette)
Slotting and/or cross-drilling increases the surface area of the rotor, supposedly enhancing heat dissipation. The rotor, in addition to serving as a friction surface, acts as the heat sink for the brake system. Also, the slots and holes help to "sweep" brake gasses away from the pad contact area, preventing an effect similiar to hydroplaning from decreasing brake performance.
The holes in x-drilled rotors are a weak point; when the rotor is continually heated and cooled, the flexing that results usually leads to hairline cracks around the holes. Slotted rotors are rumored to be immune to this problem, however slotted, x-drilled rotors are considered (by many) to perform better. Race teams typically run drilled rotors; they're not worried about cracks because they're going to throw the rotors out at the end of the weekend.
The "best setup" depends on your desired application. If you're just driving around town, you'll never exceed the capabilities of the stock system and should stick with it. For autocross and road racing, I'd go with slotted rotors. Or, if money isn't an object (read, if you don't mind replacing rotors every 6 months), drilled & slotted rotors are great.
If you're interested in performance but cost is an issue, an alternative to both of these is a thicker rotor which can absorb more heat. IIRC the solid HD Racing GM rotor is several mm thicker than the stock C5 rotor.
The holes in x-drilled rotors are a weak point; when the rotor is continually heated and cooled, the flexing that results usually leads to hairline cracks around the holes. Slotted rotors are rumored to be immune to this problem, however slotted, x-drilled rotors are considered (by many) to perform better. Race teams typically run drilled rotors; they're not worried about cracks because they're going to throw the rotors out at the end of the weekend.
The "best setup" depends on your desired application. If you're just driving around town, you'll never exceed the capabilities of the stock system and should stick with it. For autocross and road racing, I'd go with slotted rotors. Or, if money isn't an object (read, if you don't mind replacing rotors every 6 months), drilled & slotted rotors are great.
If you're interested in performance but cost is an issue, an alternative to both of these is a thicker rotor which can absorb more heat. IIRC the solid HD Racing GM rotor is several mm thicker than the stock C5 rotor.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Re: Brake Rotor Question (David Lively)
Thanks David. Good information!! Who makes a good slotted rotor for the C5 that can be used for street/autocross?
#4
Team Owner
Re: Brake Rotor Question (l2vette)
Sorry to differ but most people with Corvette's at track events don't run drilled or slotted rotors. They will crack easier if they are just a stock rotor with machining. Porsche cast the holes in there rotors. Go to the racing section and ask there. Stick with stock for 55.00 per rotor or get AP brakes for 6 grand. If you like the cosmetic looks get sloted or drilled but not for the rigors of track events. Pads will vanish like a cheese grater. Pad material has changed lessening the need for slots. Your stock set up will work fine with a few mods like stainless pistons and fluid upgrade. Stainless brake lines are not much help either.
#5
Melting Slicks
Re: Brake Rotor Question (l2vette)
12vette:
John is correct. If you want to improve braking performance but not go with the 6 grand "super brakes" then use the GM heavy duty front rotors and a good racing pad and stay away from slotted and/or drilled rotors.
Drilling and slotting actually removes mass from the rotor and since the rotor is a heat sink, it will not be as effective a heat sink as the HD rotor available from GM. Also as pointed out the holes provide a wonderful place for cracks to start. If you're only going to use your car for autocross and the street, the 6 grand option for brake improvement is overkill. The stock C5 brakes with one of the very good racing pads available and no other inhancements, such as those mentioned, should be very acceptable for autocrossing and street use.
If you ever plan to run you car on a race track and be hauling down from 150 mph, then you should be considering a little more brake inhancement to handle those severe conditions. :cool:
John is correct. If you want to improve braking performance but not go with the 6 grand "super brakes" then use the GM heavy duty front rotors and a good racing pad and stay away from slotted and/or drilled rotors.
Drilling and slotting actually removes mass from the rotor and since the rotor is a heat sink, it will not be as effective a heat sink as the HD rotor available from GM. Also as pointed out the holes provide a wonderful place for cracks to start. If you're only going to use your car for autocross and the street, the 6 grand option for brake improvement is overkill. The stock C5 brakes with one of the very good racing pads available and no other inhancements, such as those mentioned, should be very acceptable for autocrossing and street use.
If you ever plan to run you car on a race track and be hauling down from 150 mph, then you should be considering a little more brake inhancement to handle those severe conditions. :cool:
#6
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Re: Brake Rotor Question (David Lively)
I've thought about buying Baer enhanced slotted/drilled rotors. Do you mean that the regular exchange interval is 6 months in rough streetuse or do you mean race/track-usage? :eek: :cry
#7
Racer
Re: Brake Rotor Question (Finnish Vette)
Off this thread, I wanted to take the opportunity to transmit some greetings to my European Comrade in FINLAND.
Sure you eagerly wait spring with much warmer climate conditions!:cheers:
Enjoy VETTing in your home-country and may we all have once some chance to hear a little bit about the CORVETTE enthusiast's scenario there up?
Thanks in advance and I wish you all the best from ~N47°30' latitude, E007°30' (circa).
Joe. :seeya
Sure you eagerly wait spring with much warmer climate conditions!:cheers:
Enjoy VETTing in your home-country and may we all have once some chance to hear a little bit about the CORVETTE enthusiast's scenario there up?
Thanks in advance and I wish you all the best from ~N47°30' latitude, E007°30' (circa).
Joe. :seeya
#8
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Re: Brake Rotor Question (SwissVette_Joe)
Thanks :) Yeah.. it's really a horrid weather now, snow and ice all around and the VETTE inside. Almost all C5 owners know each other, so there aren't so many of us here. The few days in the summer when you can take the vehicle out for a spin.. well those days one must take out all of it and enjoy with all heart. :cheers:
#10
Team Owner
Re: Brake Rotor Question (RajunCajun2001)
hard track use I couldn't get 3 full days 5x3x20= 300 minutes at Pocono. Stock rotors 55 each just junk them. I don't think heavy duty is worth it for racing. They will crack and over heat too + extra weight :U I just don't think you need more than stock for 20 minute runs. AP brakes look great but don't really know how long the would last and the cost of eplacement rotors is probably 3x stock. Anyone know? Cryo is a waste if you really heat them I heard.
[Modified by John Shiels, 7:32 PM 1/24/2002]
[Modified by John Shiels, 7:32 PM 1/24/2002]
#11
Re: Brake Rotor Question (John Shiels)
Sorry to differ but most people with Corvette's at track events don't run drilled or slotted rotors. They will crack easier if they are just a stock rotor with machining. Porsche cast the holes in there rotors. Go to the racing section and ask there. Stick with stock for 55.00 per rotor or get AP brakes for 6 grand. If you like the cosmetic looks get sloted or drilled but not for the rigors of track events. Pads will vanish like a cheese grater. Pad material has changed lessening the need for slots. Your stock set up will work fine with a few mods like stainless pistons and fluid upgrade. Stainless brake lines are not much help either.
#12
Safety Car
Re: Brake Rotor Question (David Lively)
if money isn't an object (read, if you don't mind replacing rotors every 6 months), drilled & slotted rotors are great.
#13
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Re: Brake Rotor Question (aces)
Who has/ sells stainless steel pistons? :cheers:
#14
Team Owner
Re: Brake Rotor Question (70L46)
PFC fluid is good an cheaper than Motul 600 especially if you are draining it at the track. If you are leaving it for a time as in street driving then get Motul 600.
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Re: Brake Rotor Question (John Shiels)
Thanks for the info!!