Bigg Turd

Makes no sense to me? I want the protection of fully synthetic oil :cheers:
When Dino oil is blended with synthetic oil, break down temperture will be lower.
Stay with fully synthethic such as Mobil 1 or for even higher oil breakdown temps Redline.

Glennm27

I'm with ya all the way on that! :yesnod: :lol: :yesnod:

kewlbrz

REDLINE is The SHEEIAT! :yesnod:

WhiteDiamond

There is a loyal following to Royal Purple and, depending on who, some dyno tests seem to indicate it reduces friction, as the numbers go up....If you change your oil every 3K miles, the fully synthetic doesn't really buy you much over todays modern oils.

Todd

360Lemans

Fully synthethic all the way. Blending Makes no sense to me :confused:

SwissVette_Joe

Bigg Lotz

Thanx for your powerful statement! I am totally with you!! My car's driveline components are as well "topped-up" RED LINE from front bumper to the rear one. I personally drive R-L 10W-40 weight (engine), due to much more peace of mind when driving at pretty high ambient temps here around in the Alps. The 10W-40 figures also in the SVC-Manual as a GM-approved alternative to give you best possible protection.

To finish this up, Company RED LINE does not use any ordinary hydrocarbon stock base blending, but they go with a polyol-esther stock base (= 100% synthetic!!). This Polyol-esther base is cappable to resist even to the tremendous high temperatures within bearings of Aviation Jet Engines!! Further, R-L offers you one full integrated product-line for all our specific requirements in the C5. I said it already, from front bumper to the rear one.

Take into account I am living overseas, so to get the RED LINE products, I had to battle for. I wanted absolutely this stuff for my car and I won. The regular market price was never any decision base for me, as for the heartblood of my mighty LS1 and the rest of the mechanic underneath, just nothing could be too expensive. Result: this car gives me really what I want plus more, and this was always argument enough to give it back what it deserves - the highest possible standards for its heartblood. :smash: :smash: :smash:

Joe.

C5Noir

RP meets GM spec for an oil in an LS1 so that means RP is equatable in the eyes of GM. Also, I have tried two other fully synthetic oils and still got oil consumption of 1-1.5 qt /2800 miles. RP 5W30 I have no oil consumption. My blackstone lab analysis of my RP 5W30 should arrive in the mail tomorrow. I will post the results in a side by side comparison vs. my M1 5W30 I used to run. The M1 did a great job protecting my engine but I was sick of the oil consumption so I took other venues and RP has done what it claimed. I anticipate the results of my oil test to lay to rest the bickering of RP (since it's not 100% synthetic) being a lesser oil in comparison to M1 :D
:cheers:
I looked at the MSDS sheets for Redline and RP and they both have high flashpoints, Redline's is higher but RP's is still very high.
SAE GRADE SAE
5W30

Viscosity, cSt @ 40°C 62.5
cSt @ 100°C 10.5
Viscosity Index 160
Pour Point, °F -44
Flash Point, °F 405
Fire Point, °F 435
Total Base No.
(Detergent Alkalinity) 10.5
API Service Classification SJ/CH-4
GM 4718M






Redlines Spec Sheet (PDF)

They both compare very well in terms of Flash Point. Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F. As you can see, all three presented have flash points greater that 400 F. All compare very well in my opinion regardless of which oil company uses petroleum based stock or synthetic stock.


Here is M1's MSDS

Either way, the verdict should be in tomorrow :D
:seeya


[Modified by C5Noir, 6:27 PM 1/21/2002]


[Modified by C5Noir, 6:31 PM 1/21/2002]

MDL-01C5

I'm very anxious to see the results of your test, C5Noir--I've been wondering what all the fuss is about oil I've been seeing lately--
I need to look at some of those threads to see what was said... but I have recently(last 1500 miles or so) started losing oil...and my car just hit 18,000 miles, which doesn't make much sense to me, since I would have thought that (if it's the ring issue) it would have been present for a lot longer...
I don't think it's that(rings), though, since I never drive "high-RPM/low-load", which is what is supposed to cause the old ring style to fail... keep us posted:) :cheers:

jschindler

I have now read several posts on using this or that oil reduces consumption. I know a fair amount about engines, and am truly curious. What do you guys think is the reason certain oils reduce consumption, and why do you think that is a good thing? I'm not try to be a smart you-know-what, I am really trying to learn something here.

Burning oil is a result of oil getting by the rings or the valve guides. What component of oil stops this from happening? The only thing I can think of is a thicker weight (that must include thicker at full operating temperature). Going to a thicker weight has it's own set of problems.

I can't help think it might be better to accept the oil consumpition than put a bandage on the problem. Also, going back to my early days of learning about engines, using some oil (about a quart/1000 miles) was considered normal. I realize that modern technology has probably reduced oil consumption under normal conditions, but what really is an oil consumption problem, and why do you think that?

Again, I am trying to learn here, not throw stones. Thanks for any input.

C5Noir

The sole reason I hate oil consumption is that oil in the combustion chamber lowers the octane of your gasoline which makes your car more susceptible to detonation, period. In my case, running nitrous, I want the maximum amount of timing on the spray that can be run without detonation. If I have oil getting into the combustion chamber as I spray, I run a greater risk of entertaining detonation and with nitrous, that's a huge no no. And it causes a loss of power, detonation. Those are my reasons why :D :cheers:

Bigg Turd

SwitssVette_Joe
You will never have to worry about heat breakdown of your oil if you are using http://www.redlineoil.com Redline does not skimp on synthethic base as you posted. Lots of other great information is available on their web sit.
Best place I have found to buy Redline at is http://www.autoil.com :cheers:

MitchAlsup

SwissVette_Joe wrote: This Polyol-esther base is cappable to resist even to the tremendous high temperatures within bearings of Aviation Jet Engines!!

I write: What gives you the impression that Jet engine bearings operate at excessive temperatures. After all, 90% of their life is spend at part throttle consuming air at -50 dF. Jet-A (jet fuel with the polymers to prevent ground fires) does not burn all that hot outside of the 22:1 compression burn chamber, and the bearings are not that close to the burn chamber. Sounds like suspicious marketing factoids to me.

That said--I am a RedLine user in many applications--its just the jet bearing statement does not stand without further data.

dogdoc

There was a LONG thread onhere about Royal P> I spoke to them and others about the synthetic issue. While someone here posted that RED LINE has no dino oil...that is interesting...It was my understnading that all oils have a composite base...EVeN M1, read the bottle. THe base grade is 3, Royal Purple 4. In addition, they claim a higher film strength,not viscosity....all in all, everyone believes something different. I do know that RP has met GM specs...Dogdoc. :confused:

Bigg Turd

dogdoc
Redline is the only synthetic oil manufacture. I know of, to use Polyol ester base stocks. Using this very expensive base stock, does not require dino oil composit base. Main reason why Redline has over 100 degree higher flash point than any other synthetic oil.
You may want to read all the tech info at http://www.redlineoil.com.
Redline is API approved :cheers:
Redline is not a mass marketed oil, for cost reasons. Redline uses most expensive synthetic base stock you can buy.
People who know there oil, know Redline is the best for thermal protection.
Any synthetic oil tested would meet G.M. Specs. All you have to do is pay the $300,000 plus to have it tested. Since Redline is not mass marketed why would they pay the fee????
Mobil 1 was behind GM spec. Wanted to make sure anybody who cut into there contract with GM, would have to pay to get into limited Corvette oil market :mad

jschindler

Would everyone who has had oil related failures please raise your hands! Um, I'm not seeing any hands raised, just a bunch of theory here. Increased horsepower? I'm still waiting. And I asked in an earlier post on this thread why one oil would reduce consumption over another and no one seems to be able to answer that question either.

Don't get me wrong. I use nothing but synthetic in all of my cars, and I think that oil can make a difference, but not enough to nit picks over Red Line, vs Royal Purple vs Amsoil, vs Mobil 1, or any other synthetic. Just my opinion. And by the way, I tried to open the web-site listed in the last post for Red Line and it said "site under construction".

C5Noir

I believe this is why, but I'm going to e-mail Mr. Martin to confirm but the reason why there is reduced to zero oil consumption is: "The defining factor bwtween Royal Purple and other synthetics is our non-corrosive Synerlec high film strength additive technology. Synerlec is the foundation of Royal Purple automotive and industrial lubricants offering a film strength typically found to be 3 to 5 times that of other oils, regardless of base oil. This film strength equates to the benefits RP users repeatedly see simply due to less friction."
M1 is extremely viscous and thus can get past "fluttering" rings.
I'll e-mail him and keep you update, jschindler.

jschindler

Thanks,

Jim

C5Noir

Which link was it? I'll try to get you a correct one. I thought the links I provided worked. BTW, just sent an e-mail about your questions, jschindler :D

jschindler

I'm referring to Bigg Turd's Link. (why would he pick that name?)

C5Noir

Gotcha. Yeah, weird name to say the least LOL.