Legendary Problem Solved....
#162
Thanks for the reply, that kinda' what I thought, but it was a start. I'll take your sugestions in order. I did pull the DTC codes and one came up P0101, Mass airflow circuit. Everything I looked up, that code will not prevent starting. Now I suspect the fuel pump. I believe it is the original one from new. The car was only 1 year old when I bought it.
#163
Le Mans Master
Thanks for the reply, that kinda' what I thought, but it was a start. I'll take your sugestions in order. I did pull the DTC codes and one came up P0101, Mass airflow circuit. Everything I looked up, that code will not prevent starting. Now I suspect the fuel pump. I believe it is the original one from new. The car was only 1 year old when I bought it.
#164
Melting Slicks
Charlie
#165
Thanks, I went back over everything I have to date and trying to prioritize what to work first. Both keys have the same effect. As I said before, the car will fire of and try to run for a milli-second. (either key). I do have the "service Colume Lock" and "remove key, wait 10 seconds". I read the FAQ sticky post about the service colume lock and it seems the right set of conditons could have power shut off to the fuel system, making mr think it is the fuel pump. I used both my code reader and the diagnostics of my Predator tuner. The car did have te recall, (with the factory tune loaded), and sitting in the garage, with the key out, the steering wheel is not locked. It sounds like I need to work the colume lock first. I do not want to take this to the dealer. I think maybe print some of this stuff off and work through it a step at a time. Thanks to all the knowledgable people on this forum. this thing is not going to beat me and I will share my findings.
#166
Great Fix
Just did the re-soldering yesterday on my FOB that's been dead for over a year. Amazing ... like magic! The six points in the photo above on my FOB looked fine and nothing was loose ... but now my FOB is working like new. I have access to a Lab at work where there's a lighted magnifying glass and fine tip soldering iron. Like someone said, I just melted a small spec of solder on the tip of the iron and then held it on one of the suspect connectors for about 2-3 seconds. Repeat for each connector in the picture above. Thanks for the photo, helped to know precisely what connector to deal with.
Last edited by somefunthunder; 07-12-2013 at 12:03 PM.
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joelschl (07-19-2020)
#168
Good morning all,
I just wanted to drop a quick note to say thank you for all the great information. With your help, I replaced the relays in the driver door control module and fixed both key fobs!
You guys are great!
Thanks,
Dan
I just wanted to drop a quick note to say thank you for all the great information. With your help, I replaced the relays in the driver door control module and fixed both key fobs!
You guys are great!
Thanks,
Dan
#170
Instructor
Great help for the FOB
PROBLEM SOLVED. I soldered the 4 points even though they were not broken. PROBLEM RESOLVED. It don't make sense. Don't know why but my only answer is possibly the solder is bad on the board.
Now, at first when I did the re-training. Nada. Then when I walked away from the car it locked on it's on. So, the remote was detected. I mashed the alarm button and the alarm went off. So, I went back to my volt meter and checked the circ board and other joints. I remember reading all of the other Remote posts. Decided to put it back together and wait 'til the morning. In the morning, I did the following:
Resetting and Reprogramming Keyless Entry Remotes
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ut-remote.html
Remote is working like new.
Now, at first when I did the re-training. Nada. Then when I walked away from the car it locked on it's on. So, the remote was detected. I mashed the alarm button and the alarm went off. So, I went back to my volt meter and checked the circ board and other joints. I remember reading all of the other Remote posts. Decided to put it back together and wait 'til the morning. In the morning, I did the following:
Resetting and Reprogramming Keyless Entry Remotes
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ut-remote.html
Remote is working like new.
#171
Soldering Instructions
Out of business on my FOB keeping sync. Can anyone confirm the soldering instructions?? Specifically, I'm assuming that I need to add solder to the 6 points shown in the picture near the beginning of the thread. I don't just don't touch the soldering gun to the existing solder on the FOB.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#172
If you really think your going to touch a "solder gun" to the tiny components on the circuit board and not smoke everything, think again. You need a fine point soldering pen. Put a tiny amount of solder on the tip of the pen and then touch the pen to the solder joints just long enough to flow the solder on the board. If you use a solder gun you will likely lift the copper traces from the board and destroy the FOB. Your going to need a magnifying glass as well to be able to see exactly what you are touching the solder pen to.
#173
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
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1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Use Google and explore 2M soldering. You cant use a blow torch electric solder iron to repair micro miniature electrical circuits.
You must use a LOW WATTAGE gun with the proper solder to re-flow the joint.
LOL!! This is an example of how detailed a proper solder/circuit board can be. They sure get **** to get the 100% proper solder job!!!
http://www.navymars.org/national/tra.../14186_ch2.pdf
Here is what you need to do the job. This U Tube Vid is your Huckleberry! Follow it and you cant loose!!!!!!
Hope this helps!
Bill
You must use a LOW WATTAGE gun with the proper solder to re-flow the joint.
LOL!! This is an example of how detailed a proper solder/circuit board can be. They sure get **** to get the 100% proper solder job!!!
http://www.navymars.org/national/tra.../14186_ch2.pdf
Here is what you need to do the job. This U Tube Vid is your Huckleberry! Follow it and you cant loose!!!!!!
Hope this helps!
Bill
#174
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2006
Location: DuBois PA
Posts: 5,987
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16 Posts
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I think the cold has finally gotten to your noggin Bill, no one is going to buy a full blown Pace kit to repair a FOB and your video isn't working Huckleberry!
I have a similiar variable solder/desolder/hot air gun ESD safe station with all the goodies like heated tweezers and vaccume attachments to pick up components ect. like that .pdf file but seriously a decent low wattage pen with a sharp point, lit magnifying glass for us older guys will get the job done with some patience...
Tim
I have a similiar variable solder/desolder/hot air gun ESD safe station with all the goodies like heated tweezers and vaccume attachments to pick up components ect. like that .pdf file but seriously a decent low wattage pen with a sharp point, lit magnifying glass for us older guys will get the job done with some patience...
Tim
#175
Intermediate
FOB Solder Connections
Hi, Mark
When I look at the red dot points on your photo under magnification on my remote, they LOOK okay. Do you think they might still be bad.......like "cold-soldered" joints?? I have a '98 C5 with GM remote No. 10253839. It worked when I got it, then just quit. Battery is new. Your thoughts much appreciated! One of the symptoms first exhibited was that I had to push the buttons extra hard to make them respond..........then they stopped working, altogether.
Geoff
P.S. I'm fairly new using the Forum , so hope I am doing this right!
When I look at the red dot points on your photo under magnification on my remote, they LOOK okay. Do you think they might still be bad.......like "cold-soldered" joints?? I have a '98 C5 with GM remote No. 10253839. It worked when I got it, then just quit. Battery is new. Your thoughts much appreciated! One of the symptoms first exhibited was that I had to push the buttons extra hard to make them respond..........then they stopped working, altogether.
Geoff
P.S. I'm fairly new using the Forum , so hope I am doing this right!
That would make sense... I just took mine apart and studied the circuit. It appears that one of the battery (+) legs goes up to the two legs on that chip, through the chip, then down to two pins on the main chip.
Maybe that is a memory feature of some kind? I think the FOB's have a rolling code, so maybe this is what keeps track of the codes as it rolls over?!?!
I just took my FOB down to the lab and hit those points with some solder. If it works, I'll report back.
Thanks for the tip.
Mark
Maybe that is a memory feature of some kind? I think the FOB's have a rolling code, so maybe this is what keeps track of the codes as it rolls over?!?!
I just took my FOB down to the lab and hit those points with some solder. If it works, I'll report back.
Thanks for the tip.
Mark
#176
8th Gear
Thanks! Another Vouch for this fix.
I had a fob that wouldn't sync up at all and I had nothing to lose so I did this fix and it works like new again! When I pulled my fob apart there was no indication through a magnifier that any point was loose but I did what was suggested and just hit the said 6 points with a solder iron and it fixed it.
#177
Instructor
just tacked mine I'm hoping that's gona fix it. have 2 fobs here that don't work. im worried that this car had a security system in it at some point that someone took out.
#179
Hello. I have also this problem with key fobs loosing connection with the RFA on my 1999 vette. I bought a brand new key fob including an new battery and was hoping it would work for a long time, but it only lasted one week, today it needed to resync. Is it possible that it will help solder a a brand new key fob ? Maybe they come bad soldered from GM ?
#180
The Forum's stock just went up---the souldering fix worked on my 1998 fob that had not functioned for years---it works now--2/23/2015--CRG As of 11/12/2016---still working---CRG
Last edited by chasrg; 11-13-2016 at 01:26 AM. Reason: To correct a date and add an update