Legendary Problem Solved....
03-09-2009, 09:50 PM
#22
Tech Contributor
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
NO GLUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Glue is NON Conductive. That would most likely cause it to get WORSE!
Glue is NON Conductive. That would most likely cause it to get WORSE!
03-09-2009, 10:48 PM
#23
Tech Contributor
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Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I tried soldering those contacts long ago when I still had my '99. It didn't work for me. Reading this thread today, I pulled out the old fobs and looked them over closely with a scope. They were and are still making the proper electrical connections and they were still bad.
03-09-2009, 11:14 PM
#24
Race Director
OK, someone who has successfully done this want to give me a price to do my old one for me? 
03-15-2009, 08:51 AM
#28
Intermediate
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I tried soldering those contacts long ago when I still had my '99. It didn't work for me. Reading this thread today, I pulled out the old fobs and looked them over closely with a scope. They were and are still making the proper electrical connections and they were still bad.
(1) You may have what's known in the electronics world as a "cold" solder joint. It may appear to be good visually but the microcircuit lead may not have been cleaned properly before soldering, resulting in a solder connection that went bad over time.
(2) You microcircuit may be bad. Only fix would be to solder in a new microcircuit...
(3) You may have a "cold" solder joint somewhere else other than the six points indicated in the post above.
(4) Gremlins - Those things are almost impossible to find.
Good luck.
I have a FOB that exhibits this problem. I'm going to go check it now.
03-15-2009, 11:49 AM
#29
2nd Gear
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Was about to buy a new fob and I saw this post. After sync, it would work for about 10 minutes and then stop--every time. Makes sense. With a magnafying glass, I could see the contacts broken. Was probably done during battery replacement. Has been working now for an hour. Thanks for the info.
03-17-2009, 12:31 PM
#30
Instructor
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This worked great! Fobs were always losing sync. I assumed bad batteries but that didn't work either. Checked the solder joints and they "looked" good but...a quick hit with the solder and gun and they're working well for 2 weeks now. Thanks.
03-17-2009, 03:42 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
03-17-2009, 09:47 PM
#32
Race Director
03-18-2009, 04:30 PM
#34
I'm gonna try this tonight. I've got another question though, something on my circuit board sounds like it has something rolling around inside. Does the little silver cylinder have a ball in it?
03-18-2009, 04:47 PM
#35
Le Mans Master
Man, wish I knew about this a few months ago, I threw out 2 2000 fobs due to them not working 
, my current one works when it wants to so maybe I need to do this to mine
, my current one works when it wants to so maybe I need to do this to mine
03-18-2009, 11:14 PM
#36
Race Director
04-09-2009, 11:56 AM
#39
Le Mans Master
Sometimes you can fix it , sometimes the fob is just bad even after fixing it. I did the same to the 2000 I had a few years ago and it worked for a while, then the fob just died.
04-27-2009, 07:45 PM
#40
Heel & Toe
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Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!
That would make sense... I just took mine apart and studied the circuit. It appears that one of the battery (+) legs goes up to the two legs on that chip, through the chip, then down to two pins on the main chip.
Maybe that is a memory feature of some kind? I think the FOB's have a rolling code, so maybe this is what keeps track of the codes as it rolls over?!?!
I just took my FOB down to the lab and hit those points with some solder. If it works, I'll report back.
Thanks for the tip.
Mark
Maybe that is a memory feature of some kind? I think the FOB's have a rolling code, so maybe this is what keeps track of the codes as it rolls over?!?!
I just took my FOB down to the lab and hit those points with some solder. If it works, I'll report back.
Thanks for the tip.
Mark