vettekid's FAST intake map relocation write up
08-21-2008, 07:37 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
vettekid's FAST intake map relocation write up
Ive been on these forums for a while now and I finally got arround to upgrading to the fast intake manifold. There is several issues to overcome with this manifold, though as we all know its the best and only one in the game at this time.
The major issue at hand with this manifold is the rear location for the map sensor. It just sits in there like a loose willie and has been known to get broken off, knocked off, etc in peoples cars, expecially f bodies.
Ive seen several ways this has been done, one with a relatively "expensive" kit for what your getting, This kit relocates the map to the front. While there is no proof that a front mounted map has created any tuning issues, but I preferred to keep my map sensor in the back further away from the thottle body, and do this cheaply, with no extensive relocation efforts(extended wires and such)
Im not sure if anyone has made a write up on this meathod before, if so, then oh well. Ive seen one where someone took a pcv pipe and siliconed the hell out of it and it seemed to possibly work, I wanted something durable, clean, and guaranteed not to leak.
Tools Needed:
1. 1/4" 18npt Tap- 5.49 at ace hardware
2. Dremel, or file(dremel works quickly)
3. 1/2" box wrench(to turn tap, and to turn fitting)
4. hacksaw or cut off wheel
Supplies Needed:
1. 1/4 brass elbow with 1/4" nipple
2. RTV silicone(I used gray since the manifold was gray(to look clean)
3. 2 1/4" hose clamps
4. 7" of 1/4 hose
Step 1: Parts gathered, Remove orange rubber seal off stock map sensor. You will see the stock map sensor is designed so a hose can be attached to it, the factory added a rubber seal arround it for our engnes. Remove with a small pick or twist off.
Step 2: Insert tap into map hole, and begin threading it, Hold it steady the tap cuts the plastic very easily, no cutting oil is needed. It may be difficult to get started at first but keep working at it and itll get started. turn it in untill the hole is completely threaded.
Step 3: cut the first barb of the nipple off, and take your dremel and slightly clearance the manifold as necessairy, I only had to take off just a very tiny ammount to make it swing, I then put gray rtv on the threads and tightened it down with the 1/2" wrench untill it was all the way bottomed out, when tightening it, it helps to "bear hug" the manifold stabilizing it while you turn the fitting in.
Step 4: Attach the hose to the nipple with some hose clamps, I chose to put some silicone on each niple on each side to make sure it sealed good.(the hose clamps arnt yet on in this pic) The wiring will reach so no need to extend any wiring, it plugs right in and you can tuck it out of the way, and itll be covered by the Fuel rail covers..
I Test fit mine to verfy it clears and it does.
In conclustion, I spent 7.50 to relocate the map out of harms way, Not 160+ and having to drill another hole in my fast manifold for a front mount, which also looks pretty unsitely.
The major issue at hand with this manifold is the rear location for the map sensor. It just sits in there like a loose willie and has been known to get broken off, knocked off, etc in peoples cars, expecially f bodies.
Ive seen several ways this has been done, one with a relatively "expensive" kit for what your getting, This kit relocates the map to the front. While there is no proof that a front mounted map has created any tuning issues, but I preferred to keep my map sensor in the back further away from the thottle body, and do this cheaply, with no extensive relocation efforts(extended wires and such)
Im not sure if anyone has made a write up on this meathod before, if so, then oh well. Ive seen one where someone took a pcv pipe and siliconed the hell out of it and it seemed to possibly work, I wanted something durable, clean, and guaranteed not to leak.
Tools Needed:
1. 1/4" 18npt Tap- 5.49 at ace hardware
2. Dremel, or file(dremel works quickly)
3. 1/2" box wrench(to turn tap, and to turn fitting)
4. hacksaw or cut off wheel
Supplies Needed:
1. 1/4 brass elbow with 1/4" nipple
2. RTV silicone(I used gray since the manifold was gray(to look clean)
3. 2 1/4" hose clamps
4. 7" of 1/4 hose
Step 1: Parts gathered, Remove orange rubber seal off stock map sensor. You will see the stock map sensor is designed so a hose can be attached to it, the factory added a rubber seal arround it for our engnes. Remove with a small pick or twist off.
Step 2: Insert tap into map hole, and begin threading it, Hold it steady the tap cuts the plastic very easily, no cutting oil is needed. It may be difficult to get started at first but keep working at it and itll get started. turn it in untill the hole is completely threaded.
Step 3: cut the first barb of the nipple off, and take your dremel and slightly clearance the manifold as necessairy, I only had to take off just a very tiny ammount to make it swing, I then put gray rtv on the threads and tightened it down with the 1/2" wrench untill it was all the way bottomed out, when tightening it, it helps to "bear hug" the manifold stabilizing it while you turn the fitting in.
Step 4: Attach the hose to the nipple with some hose clamps, I chose to put some silicone on each niple on each side to make sure it sealed good.(the hose clamps arnt yet on in this pic) The wiring will reach so no need to extend any wiring, it plugs right in and you can tuck it out of the way, and itll be covered by the Fuel rail covers..
I Test fit mine to verfy it clears and it does.
In conclustion, I spent 7.50 to relocate the map out of harms way, Not 160+ and having to drill another hole in my fast manifold for a front mount, which also looks pretty unsitely.
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HT99 (05-12-2023)
08-21-2008, 10:26 PM
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Im waiting for my throttle body to come in, I havent put everything back on officially yet, but the beauty of this setup is, you thave the ability to locate this anywhere you want.
Im probally going to securely zip tie it to the rear wiring harness or to the fuel rail under the fuel rail cover.
Either it will be absolutely unseen. Its pretty much up to you how you want to run it, Ill have pictures of it installed finally when my LS2 throttle body comes in...
08-21-2008, 10:31 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
My issues with it is-
1. Its uglier sitting up front- Looks out of place, No one has verified if this has any effect on tuning being so close to the throttle body- The map works off the vaccum, and its always stratigically placed in the rear of the manifold, so this keeps the sensor vaccum source in its original place of orgin
VS.
Without the front map.
2. Required drilling an additional Hole in your manifold, that might be useless to someone else if you were ever sell it.(my meathod allows you to either cap it with a 1/4 Pipe plug or you can sill retain the factory hole with MINIMAL thread damage to mount sensor in the "original" place if desired. I was curious, the stock sensor will still install in the threaded hole the same way as it did from fast right ouf of the box, I picked out a size that reqired the least bit of cutting, the 1/4 tap barely takes material off inside that hole, so you could still use it like fast intended right ouf of the box... In otherwords it basically keeps the unit a virgin from drilling.
3. This cost 7.50 installed, vs 67+shipping. and you'd still have the same effort required in drilling your manifold to make it fit.
Last edited by vettekidc5; 08-21-2008 at 10:48 PM.
10-25-2008, 12:00 PM
#17
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2003
Location: Tampa Fl
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
When I was drilling I kept saying to myself, Self, you got one shot at this. Keep it small and measure to see if it fits, then go a hair bigger, then repeat until it was a snug fit.
I drilled it about 6 times
I drilled it about 6 times
10-25-2008, 05:23 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Port Arthur, Texas 77642
Posts: 8,475
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phils C5 vette you have a nice combo going on and I bet you have more beyond the 425rwhp @ 6200 rpm in your sig (pre FAST 90/90). After you have your next dyno tune I would love to see your numbers @ 6700 rpm, I'll bet you're easily at or beyond 455rwhp 
AFR's + Cam + FAST 90 =
AFR's + Cam + FAST 90 =
10-25-2008, 08:14 PM
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
I had it zip tied to the fuel rail, but later had to remove it, and had to cut the zip ties.
I desided just to leave it hanging its been perfectly fine for awhile now. Its all hiden under the engine covers, Even with them off you have to really look because its in the back under all the wiring looms
I desided just to leave it hanging its been perfectly fine for awhile now. Its all hiden under the engine covers, Even with them off you have to really look because its in the back under all the wiring looms
