C5Noir

What is the procedure to drop the car to SW's ride height? Thanks.

Garceeya

Remove the front bolts completely and then put seven inch bolts in the back and it will be slammed. I spoke with Chris at performance and have seen several cars around here that are done the same way. Watch out for those speed bumps though.

:smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash:

Mike99C5HT

A friend of mine did this (removed front bolts completely) and the ride went to hell. It's ridiculously harse. I'd say if you go this route then bilsteins are in your future.

G Man

I guess it's all a matter of opinion(no flames intended)......my hardtop is exactly the same height as SW's white C5. I measured them at his place a few weeks ago. I have the same setup( front bolts and bushings removed, and longer bolts out back) with the T1 sway bars. I find the ride to be fine. I had purchased the Bilsteins after I originally lowered my car, and found no difference in ride quality. I sold them, and went back to stock. When I replace my shocks in the future, it will be with a set of coil overs.

TorchedTexan

I had the bolts removed with my Bilsteins and the ride was fine. More importantly the car looked MEAN! The preoblem is that in Houston there where potholes that could swallow my car whole. So I went back and just took of 2/3 of the rubber on the front bushing and now its perfect. I actually like the look more before but since this is my daily driver it just was not practical.

Austrian Vette

Anyone of you would give me his front leaf spring hight adjuster bolts with the rubber on it??

I messed mine and would like to have 2 new ones!!

Michael

TeamZ06

The problem is most of you guys are slamming your ride height without addressing the loss in compression travel, resulting in bottoming on the bumpstops.

Anyone slamming their ride height needs to seriously consider running shorter shocks to exchange extension travel for compression travel. You can accomplish this rather easily on OE or typical aftermarket rear shocks by modifying the lower shock mounting bracket to be shorter. Any decent metal fabricator can accomplish this. WARNING: DO NOT CUT OR WELD ON MAIN SHOCK BODY - IT CONTAINS HIGH PRESSURE GAS!!!! The only effective way to resolve the travel issue on the front shocks is to either machine the shaft shorter or invest in an aftermarket shock that will accomplish the same.

I think you would all be absolutely amazed at the difference a 1" shorter shock length will have on your ride quality and handling. Any more than this and you'll be replacing the plastic inner fender liners on a regular basis.

BLISS

Again ... I made a post about suspension and different affects it has on this forum, for so dang long - I can't even bare to remember. There are lots of factors, including the post-alignment of the vehicle after each modification you make, be it springs, coil overs, cutting bushings, or replacing shocks ... but you must do all of it, to benefit the mod in the first place. For most drops or improvements in handling, I highly recommend doing it right the first time, using some of these guidelines:

1. Replace shocks, measure things !
2. Never cut anything, just tighten as much as possible or loosen :D
3. Get the car aligned - wait a few days, drive it.
4. If not happy - remove suspension, redo whole setup - including springs, sway bars, etc !!! (This is the way I went, now I am happy as hell!!)

Extreme ? Maybe - but this is what modding is all about !!!!!! :cheers: :chevy


/rob

J99FRC

Same set-up here.. No bolts in front, 3 threads in back.. Nice ride quality.. :cheers:

SW

I did remove the front bolts, longer bolts on rear. I road race this car, so the alignment specs are pretty aggressive. This also lowers it more, not recomended for the street, wears the tires out from the inside. At the track, I did notice the car bottoming out under certain conditions, so I had to run a different shock set up, and trim the bump stops.

SW

Shinobi'sZ

I mixed mine up between Motorola Cup race height with a little extra for the rear for better launches. So instead of being 26" all around like the cup cars, I have it set at 26.25" Front and 27" in the rear. I also am riding on composite springs form VB&P which are completely different than anything stock that you can buy.
Also you may want to consider poly urethane bushings. There is a cool guy on this forum who is out of country, with a Black Hardtop in his sig. going into the corner, if you pay attention to the outside wheel in his pic, you will notice it tucking (rolling from negative to positive camber) the poly urethane bushings eliminate up to 2 degrees of roll that the stock rubber bushings allow. SW is right about the camber specs too. the more negative camber you run the faster the inside of your tire is going to wear, with wheels set negative the idea is when cornering the wheel will roll a little onto the contact patch of the tire, hence gripping much better. :cheers: :cool:

Scott97

One element has been left out, that being that SW has larger rims front and rear.

I forget what the sizes are but I'm sure that he'll reply with the sizes.

FWIW, I have the stock bolts in the rear but I cut the grommets down and left 2 threads showing before buttoning it up.

My front end retains the bolts and a 1/8" portion of the original grommet.

My ride isn't harsh but its not the "Cadillac" ride that some prefer.

I too have a pretty agressive camber setting. I've chewed up a couple a' sets of fronts, so I've decided to bring it back a notch to lessen the drain on the cash machine.

GTXgp

You shouldn't be measuring ride height from the ground to fender. You should really be measuring ride height from the center of the hub (center of center cap) to the edge of the fender. This will provide a much more accurate measure for how much you lower the car, and, it will eliminate differences in wheel/tire size when comparing to others.

BTW, can't wait to be slammed as much as the rest of you guys :cool: Waiting for my frame savers and rocker rails before I do it :cheers:

Just an FYI.

Adam

97C5ENVY

I think SW is running HRE 547's @ 19" in front and 20" in rear............unless he changed them recently.


I have my front adjust bolts removed and cut out 2 of the 3 waffers on each bushing on the rear using the stock bolts with 3 threads showing. My ride height is 26 1/8" in front and 27 1/4" rear. I also have the Bilstein Sports Shocks and Z06 Leaf Springs and i love the ride...........it's firm, but not harsh and handles like it's on rails. :D

NastyC5

SW's wheels are 19/20's same set up I have :yesnod: The front 19" wheel is actually smaller than stock, do to the 30 series tires. The 20" rear is a little taller than stock.

SW what shocks are you running? I am currently using Bilsteins that I cut the bump stops down. I am thinking about going coilovers :rolleyes:

Scott97

Sounds like most of us have about the same lowering setup.

BLISS

Hey SW, please share the wheel spec on these bad boys along with the tire sizes.

/rob