How to: Dash removal and Hud install
#23
#24
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Farmington CT
Posts: 6,126
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Cruise-In VII Veteran
I already have the hud as a factory option. After 170,000 in my 2000
C5 it stays down and I cannot adjust. Heard that I can replace the HUD by removing the cluster to get at it, without removing the dash. Has anyone head of this, and can it be done without removing the dash?
Thanks,
Mark
C5 it stays down and I cannot adjust. Heard that I can replace the HUD by removing the cluster to get at it, without removing the dash. Has anyone head of this, and can it be done without removing the dash?
Thanks,
Mark
#25
Thanks for the instructions and confidence to accomplish this project! I now have HUD and cant wait to start using it(once the snow stops flying).
With these instructions it took me about 2 hrs to complete the job. I did have a complete new C5 HUD dash tho to use, so it saved me the cutting and gluing time!
Thanks again,
Eric
With these instructions it took me about 2 hrs to complete the job. I did have a complete new C5 HUD dash tho to use, so it saved me the cutting and gluing time!
Thanks again,
Eric
#26
Tech Contributor
I used this post to help with my HUD install this weekend. I really appreciate the time people take to making do-it-yourself posts like this. The HUD projector that I bought also came with a 6,683 mile Z06 instrument cluster. I ended up taking the two clusters apart and swapped my odometer into the Z06 cluster, so now I can keep racking up the 163k+ miles on my car.
#27
Le Mans Master
FYI:
on my '98, the aluminum support was already notched for the screw on the rear HUD support.
good write up
should help alot of people.
on my '98, the aluminum support was already notched for the screw on the rear HUD support.
good write up
should help alot of people.
#28
Le Mans Master
#29
Le Mans Master
Couple things to add (AS I'M DOING THIS RIGHT NOW!). If you have a vert, you have to remove the painted portion that's on top of the rear center console, console won't come out without it gone, just 4 phillips screws. Also, if you have an auto, and can't figure out how to remove the shifter ****, just turn the car on and shift down to get the front/center console out!
Couple questions if anyone has any info... Do I need to unplug my battery for the cluster removal? I don't want any security issues...
Also, what does the projector plug into, I have a 10 pin female wire on the projector and something is already plugged into my cluster, I bought these from an '01....Thanks!
Feel free to PM me as I'll be trying to finish this up ASAP!
Couple questions if anyone has any info... Do I need to unplug my battery for the cluster removal? I don't want any security issues...
Also, what does the projector plug into, I have a 10 pin female wire on the projector and something is already plugged into my cluster, I bought these from an '01....Thanks!
Feel free to PM me as I'll be trying to finish this up ASAP!
yes you will need to remove the waterfall on a vert to get the console out.
the HUD projector plugs into a connector at the top of the cluster.
if there is no connector at the top of your cluster, then it's not a "HUD enabled" cluster.....
#30
5th Gear
Member Since: Feb 2009
Location: Henderson Nevada
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Fitted to my '98 C5
Thanks for an awesome post. This gave me the confidence to tackle the job. I brought all the individual parts on ebay and last Sat spent about 7 hours and now I have an awesome heads up perfectly installed in my '98 convertible. Thank god for the comprehensive step by step instructions. There is no way I could have done this without it.
My wife had a heart attack when she saw our destroyed baby when I had it all apart - but is back together and looks perfect.
I can't thank you enough.
Cheers
Aussie Col.
My wife had a heart attack when she saw our destroyed baby when I had it all apart - but is back together and looks perfect.
I can't thank you enough.
Cheers
Aussie Col.
#31
Instructor
Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: Crestwood KY
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Great write up on the install. Just a few things I noticed doing it to my '98 vert:
1. You don't have to remove the shifter and boot on a M6 car, just tilt the boot vertically and it will go throught the trim piece.
2. No need to remove radio.
3. When cutting the dash pad; after drilling the mounting holes, if you set the bezel in the holes on top of the dash, there is a lip on the bottom of the bezel. If you trace that with a pencil, that will give you the exact line to cut. On that line, I cut down to the plastic base of the pad with a razor knife. I cut away the vinyl and foam material, then trimmed the plastic base with a die grinder and cutting wheel. This will give you the exact fit for the bezel.
4. If you have the stock mounting clips with the bezel, there is no need to apply any adhesive to the bezel. This is the way the factory did it.
Just my .02
1. You don't have to remove the shifter and boot on a M6 car, just tilt the boot vertically and it will go throught the trim piece.
2. No need to remove radio.
3. When cutting the dash pad; after drilling the mounting holes, if you set the bezel in the holes on top of the dash, there is a lip on the bottom of the bezel. If you trace that with a pencil, that will give you the exact line to cut. On that line, I cut down to the plastic base of the pad with a razor knife. I cut away the vinyl and foam material, then trimmed the plastic base with a die grinder and cutting wheel. This will give you the exact fit for the bezel.
4. If you have the stock mounting clips with the bezel, there is no need to apply any adhesive to the bezel. This is the way the factory did it.
Just my .02
#32
I have a question I have a 1998 cluster.. I am doing this swap very soon. I wanna know is the new clusters need a bulb swaped to another spot, so all the idiot lights work. So it is the same as my 1998 clusters idiot lights.. I think its the abs light bulb... But Im not sure... Thanks again.
#33
Team Owner
Re-subscribing for my future MOD!
Thank you for the excellent write-up
Thanks,Matt
Thank you for the excellent write-up
Thanks,Matt
#34
Drifting
Some hints for the HUD install since I just finished doing it.
-Use a dremel with the "tile" carbide bit and a right angle adapter. Make square holes for the front screws for the hud.
-buy two square plastic expanding license plate inserts with the hex screws, use rubber washers on each side of the HUD tabs and just tighten the hex screws with a normal 1/4" drive ratchet.
-I took measurements of the bezel installation, hopefully I can translate these to give people a more precise cutting diagram.
-if you remove the dash, you don't need to loosen the steering wheel to remove the cluster without risk of breaking it.
-if you have a radar detector, now is the time to run the wire under the dash and into your defrost vent so its a nice clean install!
I'll post some pics once I get them hosted up to illustrate some of the above points. Great write ups! without them I don't know if I would have tried to tackle this on my own.
-Use a dremel with the "tile" carbide bit and a right angle adapter. Make square holes for the front screws for the hud.
-buy two square plastic expanding license plate inserts with the hex screws, use rubber washers on each side of the HUD tabs and just tighten the hex screws with a normal 1/4" drive ratchet.
-I took measurements of the bezel installation, hopefully I can translate these to give people a more precise cutting diagram.
-if you remove the dash, you don't need to loosen the steering wheel to remove the cluster without risk of breaking it.
-if you have a radar detector, now is the time to run the wire under the dash and into your defrost vent so its a nice clean install!
I'll post some pics once I get them hosted up to illustrate some of the above points. Great write ups! without them I don't know if I would have tried to tackle this on my own.
#37
Heads up for everyone. I just did this conversion on my car and bought a brand new bezel from partstaxi.com. They have them in stock!!! Just in case anyone is looking for a replacement
#38
Navigator
Thanks for the info
Thanks for a great article! Your info made my dash and console removal extremely easy. My HUD pivot pin had broken and I found a great article for the repair on here as well but your article on dismantling and re-assembling was an awesome time and aggravation saver. I appreciate you taking the time to photograph and add text detailing where every screw was located and the sequence in which to proceed. Thanks to you I had my HUD repaired in 5 hours. And that wasn't pushing it. I took several breaks as it is hot in the garage here in Orlando this time of year.
Thanks again for your help!!!
Thanks again for your help!!!
#39
My HUD display does not project high enough on the W/S to see it unless you raise the seat, then your head hits the conv. top. Any easy adjustments w/o removing dash pad? Thanks, EKPDDS
#40
Navigator
HUD problem
It sounds like you have the dreaded falling HUD. That means the pivot pin has worn and broken. It's a fairly easy fix actually if you're mechanically inclined and have the basic plus tools at home. There is a great article on here for disassembling and reassembling the dash. Do a search. Then there is another article for the actual repair of the HUD. I did mine in less than 5 hours and that wasn't pushing it at all. That was disassembly, repair of the part and reassembly.
If you have any problem finding the articles let me know. These guys did a great job with instructions and photos to make the job a breeze. I know I can find the articles again.
Good luck,
Bill
If you have any problem finding the articles let me know. These guys did a great job with instructions and photos to make the job a breeze. I know I can find the articles again.
Good luck,
Bill
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