C5 Ignition Switch Repair
02-10-2010, 04:26 PM
#122
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HI, Bill I read your key switch repair info and I am wondering if you think this condition will set off a p1518? I have a 2002 convertible C5 I am having a code p1518 problem. Sometimes I will turn the key and it will not crank. Some times it will crank normally and not start after 6 or 7 tries. Other times the starter will engage and disengage the flywheel several times in matter of seconds. Sometimes I will get the car started and it will not move over 1 mph. I shut it down and restart it and it is back to starting and running normal. Sometimes it starts and runs fine. Sometimes I can hear the fuel pump and other times not. When I can hear the pump it always starts and runs perfectly normal. I am also having a problem that only occurs during the winter months. Every morning when I start the car it instantly tac’s up to about 25-2800 rpm's! And stays their for about 4 to 6 seconds I am afraid it is going to spin a bearing one of these days! So I am very likely going to simply stop driving it in winter. I am also along with the high rpm's getting the check engine light on sometimes it will stay on other times it will flash and then the computer will solve the problem and shut off the code "p0300" for random misfire! As soon as winter leaves so does the problem that is until winter comes back. I also get intermittently P1571, P1652 and P1689. Any help with the P1518 would be greatly appreciated. I live in El Paso Texas so it can’t be a corrosion problem. The cars never seen snow. And I have a new Optima battery. Oh for anybody with cracks in their wheels I got my wheel replaced for free I simply called GM and threatened them with a class action lawsuit because it is a safety issue! They had me drive the car to the closest Chevy dealer and they took a photo of the rim and I got a call from the dealer 4 days later telling me to come and get my free $800 wheel. It is amazing what you can accomplish with a simple lawsuit threat!
04-13-2010, 07:44 PM
#123
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could this be my problem
Hi I am new to this site and just recently bought my dream car. A Chevy Corvette. My problem is is that 2 or three times a day it will not turn over. It does the full engine sweep and will not turn over. When aI go back to it later it does the sweep then starts. I took it to the dealer and they told m it was the ignition cylinder. but since I brought it there 3 days ago it has started every time. however they have not changed the ignition cylinder yet, it is backordered for 7 days. Plus they want $750.00 to fix my baby. Do you think that with them playing around with the ignition maybe cleaned the contacts, and that is why it is working now. Or should I go ahead and have them change the ignition cylinder. My last question is! they told me the new ignition cylinder comes pre progamed with a new key. Could I buy the part and change it myself or is this something the dealer should do.
Like I said I am new to this site and the Corvette family so any help would be much appreciated.
THANKS
Like I said I am new to this site and the Corvette family so any help would be much appreciated.
THANKS
04-13-2010, 07:54 PM
#124
Melting Slicks
Hi I am new to this site and just recently bought my dream car. A Chevy Corvette. My problem is is that 2 or three times a day it will not turn over. It does the full engine sweep and will not turn over. When aI go back to it later it does the sweep then starts. I took it to the dealer and they told m it was the ignition cylinder. but since I brought it there 3 days ago it has started every time. however they have not changed the ignition cylinder yet, it is backordered for 7 days. Plus they want $750.00 to fix my baby. Do you think that with them playing around with the ignition maybe cleaned the contacts, and that is why it is working now. Or should I go ahead and have them change the ignition cylinder. My last question is! they told me the new ignition cylinder comes pre progamed with a new key. Could I buy the part and change it myself or is this something the dealer should do.
Like I said I am new to this site and the Corvette family so any help would be much appreciated.
THANKS
Like I said I am new to this site and the Corvette family so any help would be much appreciated.
THANKS
Does your security light stay on? Mine does, but also does the same thing that happens to you. It usually doesnt give me a problem. Maybe 1 out of 10 key starts it won't turn over the engine. I just give it a few seconds and keep trying till it starts. I'm not replacing mine until it completely goes out. From what i hear its the contact key blocks that are inside the ignition cylinder, which are worn out. Basically you'll need a new ignition cylinder and a new set of keys. You can replace the cylinder very easily. There are many write ups on here. Just use the search function. Its no harder than changing out your brake pads. Good luck with your problem though.
04-13-2010, 08:39 PM
#125
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St. Jude Donor '08
Hi I am new to this site and just recently bought my dream car. A Chevy Corvette. My problem is is that 2 or three times a day it will not turn over. It does the full engine sweep and will not turn over. When aI go back to it later it does the sweep then starts. I took it to the dealer and they told m it was the ignition cylinder. but since I brought it there 3 days ago it has started every time. however they have not changed the ignition cylinder yet, it is backordered for 7 days. Plus they want $750.00 to fix my baby. Do you think that with them playing around with the ignition maybe cleaned the contacts, and that is why it is working now. Or should I go ahead and have them change the ignition cylinder. My last question is! they told me the new ignition cylinder comes pre progamed with a new key. Could I buy the part and change it myself or is this something the dealer should do.
Like I said I am new to this site and the Corvette family so any help would be much appreciated.
THANKS
Like I said I am new to this site and the Corvette family so any help would be much appreciated.
THANKS
Learn how to FIX YOUR OWN CAR!!!! Stay away from STEALERSHIPS!!!!!
Theres enough talent on this site that you can get guidance for almost ANYTHING! Hell,,,,theres enough people in your local area that will HELP you get it done for frigging FREE!
STOP hemorrhaging cash. Is NOT good for the rest of us!
Your issue is 90% NOT your ignition switch. Its your STARTER SOLENOID! The next time it happens, have some one WHACK the starter and if the starter comes to life, the solenoid is BAD! A new one is 50-60 clams.
BC
04-13-2010, 09:30 PM
#127
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what light?
04-13-2010, 09:30 PM
#128
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So you are saying the security light does stay on? If so, that changes the game. Please disclose all information pertaining to your problem so people can give you the right advice.
04-13-2010, 09:40 PM
#129
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The IGNITION switch has NOTHING to do with the SECURITY or THEFT DETERRENT!!!
The Ignition Key Resistor Sensor on the "FRONT" of the gnition key and the resistor pellet in the KEY does. If the pellet and or the sensor on the FRONT of the module dont work properly, it wll give you the same issues. Heres a PIC of the sensor on the FRONT of the ignition switch:
Either the KEY resistor pellet is bad or the sensor is BAD.
BC
The Ignition Key Resistor Sensor on the "FRONT" of the gnition key and the resistor pellet in the KEY does. If the pellet and or the sensor on the FRONT of the module dont work properly, it wll give you the same issues. Heres a PIC of the sensor on the FRONT of the ignition switch:
Either the KEY resistor pellet is bad or the sensor is BAD.
BC
08-02-2010, 10:05 AM
#132
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C5 Ignition Switch Repair
by Bill Curlee
There have been quite a few forum members with IGNITION SWITCH failure. There are a number of different symptoms to indicate that the switch is bad.
I helped FASTVETZO6 ( Mark) troubleshoot his problem down to the ignition switch. After replacement of the ignition switch, his problems were resolved. He mailed his old switch to me and I have dissected it, figured out why they fail and detailed the switch repair!
Thanks for the switch Mark! You made my weekend!
Here is the switch removed from the car The ignition lock cylinder has been removed. This is how you will receive the new switch from GM:
Looks complicated but its really very simple. The first step is to use an ohm meter to see if the switch is really bad before disassembly. I have included a hand drawn schematic of the switch PLEASE excuse the roughness of the drawing.
Use an ohm meter and ohm out each contact. You will need to cycle the switch through OFF, ACC, ON and Crank. Each contact point should be 0-5 ohms. Marks switch was reading 2500 + ohms on contacts 5 & D and 2000 ohms on contacts 3 & E.
( NOTE! The contact letters and numbers do NOT correspond to the C5 schematics. I added my own letters and numbers to help explain the drawing!
The switch contacts in the center area of the switch are the contacts that tell the BCM if the ignition KEY is inserted in the ignition cylinder or not.
Once you determine that the contacts are good or bad, remove the top GREEN cover to expose the switch contacts. The cover is easily removed by prying up the tabs "evenly" with a screwdriver.
Once the cover is off, this is what you will see:
Lift out the movable contact strips noting how the movable contacts and springs on top of the contact arms are assembled. The springs can and will fall off the arms!
Once the contacts are out, this is what you will see:
In Marks switch you can see TWO distinct burnt contacts. Those were the bad contacts.
The small brass pins just inside the fixed contacts are the pins that move UP & DOWN to operate the contacts.
The section of the switch below the section shown in the pictures above only contains the cam to move the brass pins UP & DOWN to operate the movable switch arms and contain NO electrical contacts. There is no need to disassemble this portion of the switch. When you rotate the switch the brass contacts will move UP or DOWN with each position of the switch.
There is a legend next to the hand drawn schematic that explains how the pins operate when the switch is moved through the various positions of the ignition switch.
I believe that the movable contact arms loose spring tension and cause poor contact and that results in contact arcing. Here is what the arms looked like when removed. The arm is slightly bent back wards:
Here is the burnt contacts on the arms:
I used 2000 grit wet & dry sand paper to clean the fixed and movable contacts. Polish the contacts clean to remove carbon and pitting.
Once there polished clean, wipe them down with alcohol.
(Part 2 continued in next post)
by Bill Curlee
There have been quite a few forum members with IGNITION SWITCH failure. There are a number of different symptoms to indicate that the switch is bad.
I helped FASTVETZO6 ( Mark) troubleshoot his problem down to the ignition switch. After replacement of the ignition switch, his problems were resolved. He mailed his old switch to me and I have dissected it, figured out why they fail and detailed the switch repair!
Thanks for the switch Mark! You made my weekend!
Here is the switch removed from the car The ignition lock cylinder has been removed. This is how you will receive the new switch from GM:
Looks complicated but its really very simple. The first step is to use an ohm meter to see if the switch is really bad before disassembly. I have included a hand drawn schematic of the switch PLEASE excuse the roughness of the drawing.
Use an ohm meter and ohm out each contact. You will need to cycle the switch through OFF, ACC, ON and Crank. Each contact point should be 0-5 ohms. Marks switch was reading 2500 + ohms on contacts 5 & D and 2000 ohms on contacts 3 & E.
( NOTE! The contact letters and numbers do NOT correspond to the C5 schematics. I added my own letters and numbers to help explain the drawing!
The switch contacts in the center area of the switch are the contacts that tell the BCM if the ignition KEY is inserted in the ignition cylinder or not.
Once you determine that the contacts are good or bad, remove the top GREEN cover to expose the switch contacts. The cover is easily removed by prying up the tabs "evenly" with a screwdriver.
Once the cover is off, this is what you will see:
Lift out the movable contact strips noting how the movable contacts and springs on top of the contact arms are assembled. The springs can and will fall off the arms!
Once the contacts are out, this is what you will see:
In Marks switch you can see TWO distinct burnt contacts. Those were the bad contacts.
The small brass pins just inside the fixed contacts are the pins that move UP & DOWN to operate the contacts.
The section of the switch below the section shown in the pictures above only contains the cam to move the brass pins UP & DOWN to operate the movable switch arms and contain NO electrical contacts. There is no need to disassemble this portion of the switch. When you rotate the switch the brass contacts will move UP or DOWN with each position of the switch.
There is a legend next to the hand drawn schematic that explains how the pins operate when the switch is moved through the various positions of the ignition switch.
I believe that the movable contact arms loose spring tension and cause poor contact and that results in contact arcing. Here is what the arms looked like when removed. The arm is slightly bent back wards:
Here is the burnt contacts on the arms:
I used 2000 grit wet & dry sand paper to clean the fixed and movable contacts. Polish the contacts clean to remove carbon and pitting.
Once there polished clean, wipe them down with alcohol.
(Part 2 continued in next post)
What are the symptons of a bad ignition switch?
08-02-2010, 04:32 PM
#133
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There are NUMEROUS symptoms but, lots of U series DTCs, failure of modules or systems to function. Low voltage on the Digital and IPC volt meter but good battery voltage at the battery.
Best way to test is measure the output of the fuses that the ignition switch (hot in on and start) feeds. The voltage should be BATTERY VOLTAGE. The worse shape that the contacts are in, the less voltage you will see
Best way to test is measure the output of the fuses that the ignition switch (hot in on and start) feeds. The voltage should be BATTERY VOLTAGE. The worse shape that the contacts are in, the less voltage you will see
08-16-2010, 06:01 PM
#134
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Another ignition problem for the experts
I am having a starting issue with my 2001, it is a "SOMETIMER" it will work fine, and then it will not work at all, it is like the car is dead! Replaced the battery, and now we,( my husband and I) are checking voltages on the fuses. We are check the IP fuses,( as you suggested in your post back in 08..) and it looks like we dont have a fuse in 22, ..hummm:0? see pictures.[IMG]
[/IMG]
Any suggestions on why this fuse is missing? My corvette is an automatic, is this fuse use only if it has a manual trans? Thanks for the help in advance
[/IMG]Any suggestions on why this fuse is missing? My corvette is an automatic, is this fuse use only if it has a manual trans? Thanks for the help in advance
08-16-2010, 09:25 PM
#135
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St. Jude Donor '05
I am having a starting issue with my 2001, it is a "SOMETIMER" it will work fine, and then it will not work at all, it is like the car is dead! Replaced the battery, and now we,( my husband and I) are checking voltages on the fuses. We are check the IP fuses,( as you suggested in your post back in 08..) and it looks like we dont have a fuse in 22, ..hummm:0? see pictures.[IMG][/IMG]
Any suggestions on why this fuse is missing? My corvette is an automatic, is this fuse use only if it has a manual trans? Thanks for the help in advance
[/IMG]Any suggestions on why this fuse is missing? My corvette is an automatic, is this fuse use only if it has a manual trans? Thanks for the help in advance
I checked years 00', 01', 02', all say the same.
08-16-2010, 09:51 PM
#136
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Regardless of the numbers on the fuses, just find the circuits that get energized when the ignition switch is in the ON or START position.
The circuit that 22 is on my car is the INJECTOR 1 fuse. Just find your injector fuses and that will be an ignition switched circuit. GM changes fuse numbers in different year C5's and they even change with different RPO options. Sorry for the confusion.
BC
The circuit that 22 is on my car is the INJECTOR 1 fuse. Just find your injector fuses and that will be an ignition switched circuit. GM changes fuse numbers in different year C5's and they even change with different RPO options. Sorry for the confusion.
BC
08-16-2010, 10:08 PM
#139
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In each year's service manual,, there are DOZENS or errors. Some are serious and cause damage if followed. So, having a misprint on one fuse lable is highly likely. In GM, anything is possible.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 08-16-2010 at 10:10 PM.
08-16-2010, 11:08 PM
#140
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Well we have finally decided that is must be the ignition, **Dang it**, I looked at your removal procedure, and it does not look like something that a novice ( like me) would want to try. I have worked on a lot of cars, but I have not torn into the interior much. How long does it usually take to remove the ignition?