Installed new shocks, now a clunking noise
01-15-2008, 03:59 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Installed new shocks, now a clunking noise
I installed a set of c6 z06 shocks on my car in early january and have been driving them around now for a few weeks. Sometimes I get a clunking noise going over bumps or potholes in the road, sometimes I dont...
Anyone have this happen to them as well? Any auggestions?
Anyone have this happen to them as well? Any auggestions?
01-15-2008, 05:27 PM
#4
Check all shock bolts for tightness and shock bushings for damaged or missing bushings. Also sway bar bushings where they attach to the frame have given me this problem before. I couldn't even detect play but replaced and the noice was gone.........
01-15-2008, 07:24 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
I replaced the front sway bar bushings, but maybe I lined them up poorly
01-15-2008, 08:01 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
01-15-2008, 11:18 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: Madison Wisconsin
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I'm also interested in this. My car is louder over bumps after my koni install. But i just figured that was normal being that my car is much stiffer now.
01-16-2008, 02:38 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
You might think you have the upper shock bushings as tight as you can make them. Trust me, they're not! If you can see them while the car is on the ground, you will see a little space somewhere. At least one of your shocks is not tight enough on the top mount. I installed Bilstein Sports on my Z. That's how I know!
01-16-2008, 06:09 AM
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
You might think you have the upper shock bushings as tight as you can make them. Trust me, they're not! If you can see them while the car is on the ground, you will see a little space somewhere. At least one of your shocks is not tight enough on the top mount. I installed Bilstein Sports on my Z. That's how I know!
The rears only had a bushing on the bottom if I remember correctly
01-16-2008, 09:05 PM
#16
As stated before, they may not be as tight as you think or maybe you missed something!!!!!
01-16-2008, 09:24 PM
#17
Safety Car
When you installed the front shocks, did you have an Allen Wrench applied to the top end of the shock absorber (inside the engine compartment) as you tightened the nut in the wheel well ?? Ask me how I know this could be a problem ......
If you did not "lock down" the top of the shock with the wrench, as you tightened the nut in the wheel well the shock cylinder simply rotated, so you never compressed the bushing and achieved the correct torque on the top mount for one (or both) of the front shocks.
If you did not "lock down" the top of the shock with the wrench, as you tightened the nut in the wheel well the shock cylinder simply rotated, so you never compressed the bushing and achieved the correct torque on the top mount for one (or both) of the front shocks.
01-18-2008, 02:21 AM
#18
Le Mans Master
When you installed the front shocks, did you have an Allen Wrench applied to the top end of the shock absorber (inside the engine compartment) as you tightened the nut in the wheel well ?? Ask me how I know this could be a problem ......
If you did not "lock down" the top of the shock with the wrench, as you tightened the nut in the wheel well the shock cylinder simply rotated, so you never compressed the bushing and achieved the correct torque on the top mount for one (or both) of the front shocks.
If you did not "lock down" the top of the shock with the wrench, as you tightened the nut in the wheel well the shock cylinder simply rotated, so you never compressed the bushing and achieved the correct torque on the top mount for one (or both) of the front shocks.
01-21-2008, 07:22 PM
#19
Cruising
Member Since: Nov 2007
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Amazing
When you installed the front shocks, did you have an Allen Wrench applied to the top end of the shock absorber (inside the engine compartment) as you tightened the nut in the wheel well ?? Ask me how I know this could be a problem ......
If you did not "lock down" the top of the shock with the wrench, as you tightened the nut in the wheel well the shock cylinder simply rotated, so you never compressed the bushing and achieved the correct torque on the top mount for one (or both) of the front shocks.
If you did not "lock down" the top of the shock with the wrench, as you tightened the nut in the wheel well the shock cylinder simply rotated, so you never compressed the bushing and achieved the correct torque on the top mount for one (or both) of the front shocks.
