How important is to change your clutch and brake fluid??
10-16-2007, 01:43 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
How important is to change your clutch and brake fluid??
ive got a 98 vette with 65k on it. How offten should the clutch and brake fluid be changed? Whats the best type of fluid to go with for 98 vette?
10-16-2007, 01:48 PM
#2
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '09 & '12, '14
Speaking of the Clutch - Very important.
Dot 3 Synthetic is fine for everyday use and spirited driving.
Dot 4 synthetic for track applications.
Search for posts by Ranger and clutch fluid to find the change out process. It's simple and you will be amazed.
Dot 3 Synthetic is fine for everyday use and spirited driving.
Dot 4 synthetic for track applications.
Search for posts by Ranger and clutch fluid to find the change out process. It's simple and you will be amazed.
10-16-2007, 02:08 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
- flush the brakes once a year with Dot 3/4 synthetic fluid
- change oil with Mobil1 5-30 when the oil life meter gets down around 15%
- swap the fluid in the clutch reservoir maybe a couple times a year if it's looking dirty. go with Prestone DOT3 synthentic or the dealers specific clutch fluid, I and many others have had terrible experience with the higher quality DOT4 fluids (MOTUL, Valvoline, etc)
- coolant change with dexcool maybe every 4 years
- trans and dif change once now and forget about them, AmsOil is good stuff.
- change oil with Mobil1 5-30 when the oil life meter gets down around 15%
- swap the fluid in the clutch reservoir maybe a couple times a year if it's looking dirty. go with Prestone DOT3 synthentic or the dealers specific clutch fluid, I and many others have had terrible experience with the higher quality DOT4 fluids (MOTUL, Valvoline, etc)
- coolant change with dexcool maybe every 4 years
- trans and dif change once now and forget about them, AmsOil is good stuff.
10-16-2007, 03:58 PM
#6
Drifting
Jbauch357 - Could you expand on your statement about bad experience with higher quality fuilds. I just purchased the Synthetic Valvoline brake fuild for my clutch. It is suppose to exceed DOT 3 & 4. Sounds like I should take it back.
Thanks
Thanks
10-16-2007, 04:52 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
I thought a better fluid would be the ticket, but when using MOTUL 600 I had the worst pedal ever.
Recently I started swapping for Prestone DOT 3 and things have ben getting progressively better...
I am thinking I should have just gone with the dealer fluid from the start...
10-16-2007, 05:00 PM
#8
Drifting
jb357 - Thanks for the tip. If I had not read this post and your advise I would have experienced problems and associated it with the clutch itself, not the fluid. I'm flushing my clutch due to low peddle and I don't what to have to do it a second time.
BUGZ
BUGZ
10-16-2007, 05:14 PM
#9
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Here is the procedure: Taking Care of Your Clutch
I used Prestone DOT3 Synthetic in my 2002 Z06 thru 350 passes, changed it very frequently and never had a pedal issue. Were I driving that car today, I'd be running either:
Prestone DOT4 Synthetic or GM-Brand Super DOT4.
Finally, keeping the clutch fluid clean and fresh is the best prophylactic measure an owner can take for keep the clutch performing normally.
Ranger
I used Prestone DOT3 Synthetic in my 2002 Z06 thru 350 passes, changed it very frequently and never had a pedal issue. Were I driving that car today, I'd be running either:
Prestone DOT4 Synthetic or GM-Brand Super DOT4.
Finally, keeping the clutch fluid clean and fresh is the best prophylactic measure an owner can take for keep the clutch performing normally.
Ranger
10-16-2007, 05:19 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
As far as frequency goes, for a weekend driver, flush the brake and clutch system every 2 years. Brake fluid absorbs water, which can cause boiling of the brake fluid and loss of brakes if the car is driven hard.
If not, you still need to do it to prevent corrosion from forming inside the brake and clutch systems. ABS especially doesn't like dirt or rust.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
If not, you still need to do it to prevent corrosion from forming inside the brake and clutch systems. ABS especially doesn't like dirt or rust.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
10-16-2007, 06:10 PM
#11
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I can't believe how often the clutch problem pops up. Three weeks ago the clutch pedal on my 98 with 49K miles came down with the lazy clutch syndrome. It was sudden and getting worse on the ride home.
I got on the computer and searched the forum for answers. The fluid was black so I Did the clutch fluid swap, no help so I ordered parts. Master, slave, and whole new clutch just in case.
I dropped the exhaust, close out, and flywheel inspection cover to inspect the slave. No visible issues there so I replaced the master. The master comes from the factory already filled with fluid. I just plugged it in and that was it. Fixed it. Pedal feels great, back to normal. I did bleed the whole system though, just in case.
Last night I decided to dissect the master. Oh man, was it full of gunk. Thick, oily sludge kind of like clay almost.
I cut the master in half to make a cutaway view. I have it posted under my profile since I can't post any pictures. The spring and stainless steel liner are laying to the sides so you could see the inner layout.
From my point of view after looking at how it works is that there is no flushing or circulation of fluid going on here. The only mixing of old and new fluid is the spool moving back and forth, like high and low tide in a dead ended canal.
I'm not saying you shouldn't change the fluid in the resevour but if your clutch hydraulics have failed like mine did, it's too late.
I'll be changing mine frequently and I'm superstitous so I use the GM stuff.
If you're interested in more pictures of the sludge or cutaway PM me.
I got on the computer and searched the forum for answers. The fluid was black so I Did the clutch fluid swap, no help so I ordered parts. Master, slave, and whole new clutch just in case.
I dropped the exhaust, close out, and flywheel inspection cover to inspect the slave. No visible issues there so I replaced the master. The master comes from the factory already filled with fluid. I just plugged it in and that was it. Fixed it. Pedal feels great, back to normal. I did bleed the whole system though, just in case.
Last night I decided to dissect the master. Oh man, was it full of gunk. Thick, oily sludge kind of like clay almost.
I cut the master in half to make a cutaway view. I have it posted under my profile since I can't post any pictures. The spring and stainless steel liner are laying to the sides so you could see the inner layout.
From my point of view after looking at how it works is that there is no flushing or circulation of fluid going on here. The only mixing of old and new fluid is the spool moving back and forth, like high and low tide in a dead ended canal.
I'm not saying you shouldn't change the fluid in the resevour but if your clutch hydraulics have failed like mine did, it's too late.
I'll be changing mine frequently and I'm superstitous so I use the GM stuff.
If you're interested in more pictures of the sludge or cutaway PM me.
