Window Regultor replacment tutorial *pics*
10-06-2007, 02:04 PM
#1
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St. Jude Donor '08
Window Regultor replacment tutorial *pics*
For those of you with dying window motors or frayed wiring, getting an entire window regulator assembly is the only option. I had frayed wires AND a dying motor. I was quotes prices upwards of $400 to fix this problem.
After consulting with forum members, I purchased a window regulator assembly from SMP performance for $158 shipped. (special thanks to Shaun Carter for getting the part to me before my clubs cruise this saturday)
Note: This tutorial is for the Driver's side window. If you're doing the passenger side, it will be easier because you can use the controls from the drivers side while the door panel is off. Most of you won't have dynamat...and you'll be glad you don't.
To replace the regulator, you will need the following tools:
- torx 20 screwdriver
- rachet set with metric sockets (must have 10mm)
- flathead screwdriver
- whatever other tools you use to remove the door panel
Step 1: Lower your window halfway. remove the door panel (there are many threads/websites about this so i will move on to step 2) I prefer to remove the door speaker panel for more working room. Also remove the large plastic piece that covers the rear part of the door.
Step 2: In my case, the cable completely snapped. I used a C-clamp to hold the window in place until the new part arrived.
Locate the window holding hardware:
Using a socket wrench and a 12mm socket (If i remember correctly) slowly loosen the holders then remove the window vertically from the door. Try to avoid scratching it on metal parts as you lift it.
window removed:
Step 3: removal of regulator assembly
First locate the 4 mouting points of the regulator tracks. 2 are on the top of the door and two are on the bottom. These require a 10mm socket and may be rather tight.
The bottom rear:
The bottom front is located on the underside of the door. you will have to remove a small rubber seal to access it.
Next remove the window motor itself using the 10mm socket. The nut/washers are all the same size so mixing them up is not a big deal.
Dont' forget to disconnect the electrical connection:
Ease the entire assembly out of the door hole.
The dead parts.
installation is reverse of removal.
Step 4: When re-installing the window, there should be a mark on the bottom where the old clamps were. Use this to line up you window. Shut the door and raise the window to make sure it lines up. Once you're satisfied, tighten the window clamps and make sure all your mounts are tight. Don't forget the rubber seal for the front bottom mount.
No doubt your window has fingerprints all over it. Windex wipes will solve that problem:
and you're finished.
After consulting with forum members, I purchased a window regulator assembly from SMP performance for $158 shipped. (special thanks to Shaun Carter for getting the part to me before my clubs cruise this saturday)
Note: This tutorial is for the Driver's side window. If you're doing the passenger side, it will be easier because you can use the controls from the drivers side while the door panel is off. Most of you won't have dynamat...and you'll be glad you don't.
To replace the regulator, you will need the following tools:
- torx 20 screwdriver
- rachet set with metric sockets (must have 10mm)
- flathead screwdriver
- whatever other tools you use to remove the door panel
Step 1: Lower your window halfway. remove the door panel (there are many threads/websites about this so i will move on to step 2) I prefer to remove the door speaker panel for more working room. Also remove the large plastic piece that covers the rear part of the door.
Step 2: In my case, the cable completely snapped. I used a C-clamp to hold the window in place until the new part arrived.
Locate the window holding hardware:
Using a socket wrench and a 12mm socket (If i remember correctly) slowly loosen the holders then remove the window vertically from the door. Try to avoid scratching it on metal parts as you lift it.
window removed:
Step 3: removal of regulator assembly
First locate the 4 mouting points of the regulator tracks. 2 are on the top of the door and two are on the bottom. These require a 10mm socket and may be rather tight.
The bottom rear:
The bottom front is located on the underside of the door. you will have to remove a small rubber seal to access it.
Next remove the window motor itself using the 10mm socket. The nut/washers are all the same size so mixing them up is not a big deal.
Dont' forget to disconnect the electrical connection:
Ease the entire assembly out of the door hole.
The dead parts.
installation is reverse of removal.
Step 4: When re-installing the window, there should be a mark on the bottom where the old clamps were. Use this to line up you window. Shut the door and raise the window to make sure it lines up. Once you're satisfied, tighten the window clamps and make sure all your mounts are tight. Don't forget the rubber seal for the front bottom mount.
No doubt your window has fingerprints all over it. Windex wipes will solve that problem:
and you're finished.
10-06-2007, 07:43 PM
#2
I am right in the middle of applying Dynamat on my doors. Inside straigth forward and done. Would you mind posing a pic of your door outside with the Dynamat on so I can get some ideas of what might be a better way to do it. It is going to take many smaller pieces. Thought I'd ask since you might have the pic to show it. Thanks
10-09-2007, 05:42 AM
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Awesome, I was just getting estimates, but now I can try and do it myself. Just a quick question, my window no longer rolls up. Is there any way to get it up at least until the new regulator comes in? It's rain season, and it the part may take up to a week.
10-09-2007, 03:09 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08
Funny you should ask. On mine, I cut the cable pushed the window to the correct position and used 2 C-clamps to hold the window in place on the track. (see pic #1) You'll need 2.5" or smaller clamps.
03-28-2008, 04:24 PM
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I made a post a couple months ago, would the window regulator be the problem on my car? My drivers side window is really loose and rattles a bit in certain positions.
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt
03-28-2008, 06:22 PM
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03-28-2008, 06:51 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08
- Window clamps
- Regulator track mounting points
- Regulator track adjusting points (especially the one underneath the door behind the small rubber seal (seen below)
07-15-2008, 05:21 PM
#12
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The best price I found is at Mirror Guard Co.
Send them an email at:
mail@regulatorusa.com
They also sent me $50 or my old one.
Send them an email at:
mail@regulatorusa.com
They also sent me $50 or my old one.
02-18-2010, 09:33 AM
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Call me an idiot, but I bought the regulator/motor assembly from a dealership ($$$ I know).
They are telling me that I probably need a new "Window Motor Regulator Harness Connector - part # 88988609" to go with the newer style regulator though. Does this sound right to anyone? I guess this window motor they have is a newer (better) version? They weren't trying to sell me more stuff....because they actually told me another dealership had it in stock and they didn't.
Just wondering if anyone has bought their regulator assembly from the dealership lately and it plugged right in w/o issues.
Window Motor Regulator Harness Connector
GM Part # 88988609
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/GM_...r_p/a21212.htm
They are telling me that I probably need a new "Window Motor Regulator Harness Connector - part # 88988609" to go with the newer style regulator though. Does this sound right to anyone? I guess this window motor they have is a newer (better) version? They weren't trying to sell me more stuff....because they actually told me another dealership had it in stock and they didn't.
Just wondering if anyone has bought their regulator assembly from the dealership lately and it plugged right in w/o issues.
Window Motor Regulator Harness Connector
GM Part # 88988609
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/GM_...r_p/a21212.htm
04-26-2010, 01:48 AM
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i had an issue with my passenger side window also but i was able to take it apart and notice that the cables were ripped/cut but the motor still works is there a way that i can just replace the cables and use my same window motor?
04-26-2010, 08:23 AM
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Great post!
08-14-2010, 12:32 PM
#18
Team Owner
For those of you with dying window motors or frayed wiring, getting an entire window regulator assembly is the only option. I had frayed wires AND a dying motor. I was quotes prices upwards of $400 to fix this problem.
After consulting with forum members, I purchased a window regulator assembly from SMP performance for $158 shipped. (special thanks to Shaun Carter for getting the part to me before my clubs cruise this saturday)
Note: This tutorial is for the Driver's side window. If you're doing the passenger side, it will be easier because you can use the controls from the drivers side while the door panel is off. Most of you won't have dynamat...and you'll be glad you don't.
To replace the regulator, you will need the following tools:
- torx 20 screwdriver
- rachet set with metric sockets (must have 10mm)
- flathead screwdriver
- whatever other tools you use to remove the door panel
Step 1: Lower your window halfway. remove the door panel (there are many threads/websites about this so i will move on to step 2) I prefer to remove the door speaker panel for more working room. Also remove the large plastic piece that covers the rear part of the door.
Step 2: In my case, the cable completely snapped. I used a C-clamp to hold the window in place until the new part arrived.
Locate the window holding hardware:
Using a socket wrench and a 12mm socket (If i remember correctly) slowly loosen the holders then remove the window vertically from the door. Try to avoid scratching it on metal parts as you lift it.
window removed:
Step 3: removal of regulator assembly
First locate the 4 mouting points of the regulator tracks. 2 are on the top of the door and two are on the bottom. These require a 10mm socket and may be rather tight.
The bottom rear:
The bottom front is located on the underside of the door. you will have to remove a small rubber seal to access it.
Next remove the window motor itself using the 10mm socket. The nut/washers are all the same size so mixing them up is not a big deal.
Dont' forget to disconnect the electrical connection:
Ease the entire assembly out of the door hole.
The dead parts.
installation is reverse of removal.
Step 4: When re-installing the window, there should be a mark on the bottom where the old clamps were. Use this to line up you window. Shut the door and raise the window to make sure it lines up. Once you're satisfied, tighten the window clamps and make sure all your mounts are tight. Don't forget the rubber seal for the front bottom mount.
No doubt your window has fingerprints all over it. Windex wipes will solve that problem:
and you're finished.
After consulting with forum members, I purchased a window regulator assembly from SMP performance for $158 shipped. (special thanks to Shaun Carter for getting the part to me before my clubs cruise this saturday)
Note: This tutorial is for the Driver's side window. If you're doing the passenger side, it will be easier because you can use the controls from the drivers side while the door panel is off. Most of you won't have dynamat...and you'll be glad you don't.
To replace the regulator, you will need the following tools:
- torx 20 screwdriver
- rachet set with metric sockets (must have 10mm)
- flathead screwdriver
- whatever other tools you use to remove the door panel
Step 1: Lower your window halfway. remove the door panel (there are many threads/websites about this so i will move on to step 2) I prefer to remove the door speaker panel for more working room. Also remove the large plastic piece that covers the rear part of the door.
Step 2: In my case, the cable completely snapped. I used a C-clamp to hold the window in place until the new part arrived.
Locate the window holding hardware:
Using a socket wrench and a 12mm socket (If i remember correctly) slowly loosen the holders then remove the window vertically from the door. Try to avoid scratching it on metal parts as you lift it.
window removed:
Step 3: removal of regulator assembly
First locate the 4 mouting points of the regulator tracks. 2 are on the top of the door and two are on the bottom. These require a 10mm socket and may be rather tight.
The bottom rear:
The bottom front is located on the underside of the door. you will have to remove a small rubber seal to access it.
Next remove the window motor itself using the 10mm socket. The nut/washers are all the same size so mixing them up is not a big deal.
Dont' forget to disconnect the electrical connection:
Ease the entire assembly out of the door hole.
The dead parts.
installation is reverse of removal.
Step 4: When re-installing the window, there should be a mark on the bottom where the old clamps were. Use this to line up you window. Shut the door and raise the window to make sure it lines up. Once you're satisfied, tighten the window clamps and make sure all your mounts are tight. Don't forget the rubber seal for the front bottom mount.
No doubt your window has fingerprints all over it. Windex wipes will solve that problem:
and you're finished.
"BUT" where in the world are all the pictures?
Can you re-post the pics?
Perhaps they were moved into a folder on you Photobucket and need to be reposted
Thanks,Matt
