oceanaire

Just installed a MAFT. It is set to zero. The car wants to stall at idle and upon certain accelerations. The -0- setting is for no change. My connections are good. What's happening? I hope some one can help.

rwj383

try 2% rich.

MattG

You have a 2001 with a MAFT? Did you hardwire the MAFT into your MAF? Are you sure you got the proper wires? Has your car popped any MAF codes on the DIC?

oceanaire

2001. Hardwired. Good connections. No codes on the DIC. All 4 dip switches set to off.

oceanaire

Been doing some reading and it seems that the MAFT is prone to interference. Is it possible that my Nology capacitive wires are causing interference? The car just wants to die for a second, then comes back to life. This cycles about 3 or 4 times a minute.

There was a History code: U1064 - Loss of communication with DCM


[Modified by oceanaire, 9:18 AM 11/5/2001]

chuckster

My MAFT acted strangly right after I started it up with the settings to 0.
But it went away after 1 mile or so and never came back. It's perfect now.

I guess you have a 5 Wire version? Becuase the IAT sensor is part of the MAF in 2001 and up.

I'd unplug and run it without the MAFT to see if the problem goes away.
You may even have a bad MAFT. If the calibration is off a little and the settings to 0 are actually something else then that could cause it. especially if it trying to lean you out...

chuckster

[Modified by chuckster, 8:20 AM 11/5/2001]


[Modified by chuckster, 8:21 AM 11/5/2001]

oceanaire

I drove it about 20 miles last night. Kept hoping it would clear. No dice. Yes it's a 5 wire MAF. Not so easy to just unplug the MAFT. It's now hardwired. Doesn't come with the correct plugs for 2001, which I knew in advance. I guess I'll take it off.

oceanaire

No more problems. Thanks to Chuckster. Removed Nology wires and the problem went away. Also Spoke with Mike Litchner the designer of the MAFT, and he suggested that I remove the GMS MAF, as he explained that the MAFT is expecting to receive certain data from the MAF, (the stock data), and that by using the GMS MAF, it sends different data than the MAFT is expecting to receive thereby causing problems. Has anyone had problems using the GMS MAF and the MAFT together?

Da Kind

I would get rid of the GMS MAF.

kewlbrz

Technically the GMS MAF is simply recalibrated fixed electronics for its larger size, and assumes a specific engine setup. It technically works with the MAF Translator. I have seen others do it successfully. It is however overkill, and the only added bennefit your left with when using both is the ported aspect of the GMS MAF.

And DEFINATLY steer clear of those capacitive type wires. They are simply snake oil.

oceanaire

GMS GONE.

How do those SVO 30's work for you? Much of a gain? (Oh damn. This modification thing is addictive. But I can really stop whenever I want. I gotta keep telling myself this.)


[Modified by oceanaire, 12:06 AM 11/6/2001]

kewlbrz

ocean, SVO's are used to broaden tuning ability, and help manipulate timing, I suggest you read:
http://www.vetteguru.com/mods/howto

then come back with questions :cheers:

-shawn

oceanaire

Thanks, I have an Ease Diagnostics Scan Tool on the way. I will experiment with both the stock MAF and the GMS MAF after it arrives. But for now The GMS MAF is on the shelf. I will post my findings after the testing.

team-zr1

I see no reason to be using a hardcoded 5% rich GMS MAF when you have a MAFT for it can achieve the proper AFR where adding this GMS might be fighting against the AFR your trying to dial in.
I am using a stock '99 MAF with the screen out and MAFT more then handles it but also the SVO 30 injectors just fine.

The SVO 30 main purpose is to fight a lean condition where in the end by being richer allows you to tune AFR leaner which will increase timing which increases HP and torque while driving the injectors at a lower duty cycle.

The MAFT will allow you to reach a ideal tune to obtain close to a zero LTFT while running lean enough to raise WOT tiiming but not induce ping timing retard.

oceanaire

So it looks like the main ability is to gain the timing advance. Right?

kewlbrz

In essense. Yes. But with the SVO's, they allow you to do it without fighting KR. It all boils down to perceived load by the PCM. Used in conjunction with team-zr1's timing tricker setup (resistor manipulation of the IAT Sensor), the SVO's, MAFT, and IAT resistor, make for a powerful tuning combination for virutally any motor combination.

oceanaire

Is the IAT tricker possible for the 2001? Is it advantageous. I hear the 2001 timing curves are a bit more aggressive. The IAT is incorporated into the MAF. (5 wire connector) Ya know, I don't see why I couldn't cut the 2 wires to the IAT and change the resistor and location. I had a timing tricker on my 98 that I think I paid $20.00 for. I read somewhere in the archives that I can build my own for about $2.00.

team-zr1

If you look at the different sensors on the C5 you will see they all have different shaped connectors. It's one thing to find connectors that are on the wire side but connectors of the mate of the sensors themselves is a tough task for who would make just the connector looking like the sensor ?

Thus for some mod that needs both male and female connectors would mean a mod vendor has to either find a vendor who makes them or have them custom made.
Being they are weatherproof connectors, they are not cheap, about $25 per connector.
So I explained this for you to understand that either you have to really search for connectors or for a mating set is not cheap, thus you could instead cut the wires put small mating butt connectors and then wire in a MAFT, but when wanting to go back to stock unplug the MAFT and connect wires back to MAF connector via those butt connectors.

Also since your '02 has the IAT built into the MAF, doing some IATuner is tougher in that the 2 wires for that sensor are part of the 5 wire MAF connector, whereas older C5s the IAT was by itself and simple to unplug the 2 wire connector and replace sensor with some resistance value.

I do not suggest using what is sold as a IAT tricker. it is one resistor of one resistance value. All my testing on several C5s on track and dyno showed a small margin of window when it was a postive and the rest of the time a negative costing 3 HP anf 3 ft/lbs of torque.

Why would you always want the IAT value to be 39 or 57 degrees, esp if the fuel trim is already too rich, so as Shawn mentioned I came up with (IATuner)a resistor pot that is not only adjustable, but is also on a relay so that I can either run on the stock IAT or flip a power switch on the relay and have the pot functioning and the pot is in drivers reach and I can instantly change the IAT value to fine tune the conditions I want.

chuckster

Eric, we should have an SVO party :D
I just posted that I am getting ready to do this mod soon. Maybe during the holidays..